When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Many of you posting in the "wildlife" and "flowers" threads have posted some AMAZING photos. How do you achieve such incredible detail and clarity? Is it in the settings? Modes? Or is it a function of the professional equipment you are using?
I have a Nikon D80, Nikon DX 18-55mm lens and Nikon DX 55-200mm lens.
Many of you posting in the "wildlife" and "flowers" threads have posted some AMAZING photos. How do you achieve such incredible detail and clarity? Is it in the settings? Modes? Or is it a function of the professional equipment you are using?
I have a Nikon D80, Nikon DX 18-55mm lens and Nikon DX 55-200mm lens.
First of all thank you for starting a dialog. Like most things the answer is not always as clear cut...so to answer you question. YES. It is those thing you mentioned
Now for more detail, to your question. There is a difference between something being in Focus vs. being Sharp. (although sometimes they can kinda mean the same thing, but for clarity and simplicity purposes I will separate).
Focus has more to do with the camera and lens combo being able to lock focus on a subject matter. Sharpness has more to do with the lens (in camera) and how you sharpen (in post production).
The speed and the accuracy of focus determine the focus mode you are using and the lens. For focus modes (again for simplicity sake I'm going to talk about just 2 modes). Those would be One Shot Mode (Meaning whatever you lock focus on when you hit the shutter release it will be in focus) vs. Servio or Continuous Focus Mode (Meaning as long as you hold down the shutter release the camera will continue to refocus on the main subject matter) this mode is used for tracking moving objects. Not to confuse but the quality and quickness of the focus are determined not only by the camera body and the lens but also which focus point you are using in the view finder. The center focus points will ALWAYS be more accurate than the outer focus points for example. Also you need to consider do you WANT part of the subject out of focus for artistic reasons. This is where using a much lower (wider) Aperature Number to give alot of subject separation. This is where the background is purposely not in focus nor sharp.
Sharpness is again (simplicity sake) the amount of sharp detail that the camera and lens can achieve. This is abit more dependent on the lens you are using and the fstop in which you are shooting. Every lens has the absolutely sharpest aperture to shoot at. High end Pro Lenses can be extremely sharp from f2.0 up to f16 for example where are kit lens will have a more limited range of maximum sharpness say in the f6.3- f9.0 range. You can also sharpen a photo (and actually need to sharpen if shooting in RAW format) in post production. Over-sharpened images though really stand out and not in a good way. The other factor that involves sharpness is some motion blur from using a shutter speed that is too slow for either the movement of the subject matter or to slow for the focal length you are using. For an example on the landscape thread. Shooting a non moving object (especially with low light) a sturdy tripod is a must!
Below is a shot I took just a few days ago which ironically covers a few of these principles. I shot it with a 35mm f1.4 Prime Lens. 1/320th second, f 2.0 at ISO 50. So if you look at her face and midsection they are very sharp, and because I shot it at f2.0 the background separation is purposely blurry. Now you will notice that her feet are a little blurry right? Well I hit her with a 600 watt strobe so it froze the motion of her torso but since her feet were moving much faster there are a little bit blurred. If I shot at say 1/640th of a second everything would have been sharp on her body. To me though I wanted to show a sense of movement so did not mind the feet showing that motion blur.
Good response, Rick. I don't disagree with anything you've posted. I will add that I'm familiar with the OP's D80 because it's the first DSLR I bought. The camera with the kit lenses you listed is capable of producing sharp pictures with clarity. The lenses aren't fast, so you need good light or a tripod in low light conditions. You also need to learn to use the manual mode so you can tell the camera what you need for it to do to match the situation you are in and the effect you are trying to achieve, rather than letting the camera make those decisions for you.
All great info posted so far & I'll add a few thoughts.
When shooting flowers several things factor in for me:
Regarding sharpness, I almost always use a tripod. The lens I use are generally 105mm - 300mm focal lengths. Line up my subject to be parallel to the film plane (or sensor plane) particularly if using a lens and aperture with a shallow depth of field. Try and use the fastest shutter speed the conditions will allow. A remote shutter release helps to minimize camera shake (using the timer will also work). Shooting early in the morning before the wind kicks up makes it easier to keep your subject from becoming a moving target creating blur. I believe your camera has a depth of field preview, use it to check sharpness on desired focus points.
I set minimal sharpening in the camera body and adjust it in post processing. The main reason is different types of output & uses for the image (monitor, print, size) will determine the level of sharpening I apply.
Some additional comments: find a flower or flowers that are in prime shape. Dead spots, faded colors, half eaten petals, etc. all detract from the image. I also find that a slightly overcast day with high clouds and a nice soft light is best for me. A bright sunny day particularly midday sun just adds too much contrast and you'll get allot of blown out highlights and blocked out dark areas. This can be somewhat mitigated using some fill flash to balance out the dark areas. Utilizing a large aperture (small number) will help to render the background soft & out of focus if that's what you want. Important too is pay attention to the background as much as the subject.
For exposure with flowers I'll shoot in either manual/spot meter mode or matrix metering. I find both work well.
All of this is my approach to Insects & butterflies as well.
When shooting wildlife:
For sharpness some of the same principles apply that are used for flowers with some exceptions. I use much longer focal lengths in shooting wildlife so that often requires a sturdy tripod and a gimble head which is a big help by rendering the camera & lens almost weightless. The longer focal lengths will exaggerate any camera shake or vibration. A good sturdy tripod is an important tool. I like to take action shots and therefore I utilize the fastest shutter speed I can. I'll shoot in Aperture Priority using my largest aperture which will automatically give me my fastest shutter speed in the given light. Lately with my newer bodies I've been shooting in Manual Mode utilizing Auto ISO (setting my maximum ISO limit).
I will sometimes handhold my rig, again try & get the fastest shutter you can with the desired aperture effect. Keep your elbows in to your sides to help stability, watch your breathing (kind of like firing a weapon).
I use matrix metering almost always because my subjects are moving in & out of different lighting constantly.
When my subjects are stationary I'll focus, lockin & recompose to my liking. On birds and other animals I want the eye to be in focus. On moving subjects I'll focus on something at the approximate distance in anticipation where my subjects will be, this helps to keep the AF system from having to hunt too much & will give faster acquisition of the target.
I switch between Single focus mode (for still subjects) and Group Auto Focus (for moving subjects).
As for the subject, the same as flowers, I look for subjects in prime shape and plumage. Morning & evening light is usually best.
Hope I haven't run on too much & hope some of it helps.
Here is a link to Steve Perry's website. He's an excellent photog & has some excellent e-books and youtube videos on nature/wildlife photography & Nikon focus systems.
Thank you for your input. Since I don't have anywhere to go for another month or two...I will be stalking hummingbirds, finches & chickadees in my backyard. I will practice some of the tips you gave me.
After I bought my D80 kit about 15 years ago, I decided I wanted to shoot birds in flight. I'm not a birder and often don't know what birds I'm photographing, but I knew it would be a challenge. I'll admit, however, I concentrated the first several years on a nesting pair of bald eagles and they are easier to shoot than hummingbirds.
In these times of increasing boredom, I need a challenge!
Been keeping busy while in quarantine, so have not been able to wait for backyard birds. This evening I sat in my backyard and shot random features using Manual mode.
"Decor" bird:
Nikon D80, 55-200mm lens, manual mode, 1/640, f6.3, handheld.
I am getting more comfortable with manual mode, thanks to advice in this thread. I know I have a long way to go, but once this "stay at home" is lifted, I will again be excited about taking my camera out and creating something.
Sharpness:
Great glass, proper aperture and shutter speed, hold discipline, or a good tripod.... of course light is a given or adjusted ISO above the native ISO of the camera.. Photography can be very expensive.. Once you know what good is, you can't go back. Dont waste your money on cheap glass. Buy one good lens rather than a few cheap ones. Lots of resources out there to research quality glass comparisons.
Good Luck..
Bill aka ET
Camera Info Camera Sony DSLR-A700 Focal Length 400.0 mm (600.0 mm in 35mm) Aperture f/5.6 Exposure Time 0.00125s (1/800) ISO 400 Camera Info Camera Konica Minolta MAXXUM 7D Focal Length 250.0 mm (250.0 mm in 35mm) Aperture f/6.7 Exposure Time 0.00067s (1/1500) ISO 400 Flash No Flash Camera Info Camera Konica Minolta MAXXUM 7D Focal Length 250.0 mm (375.0 mm in 35mm) Aperture f/8 Exposure Time 0.002s (1/500) ISO 800 Flash Off, Did not fire
Take Note:
Of the perfectly captured droplets of water trailing off the GBH feet. Detail like this may not be obvious to the average viewer, but its detail like this that makes for a good photograph. A shot like this takes good gear, correct shutter speed, and aperture and hold discipline.. the slightest camera movement would wash those droplets out in motion blur, and would not be so defined. They are within the depth of field established by the aperture but still isolating the subject from the background.
Camera Info Camera Konica Minolta MAXXUM 7D Focal Length 250.0 mm (375.0 mm in 35mm) Aperture f/8 Exposure Time 0.002s (1/500) ISO 800 Flash Off, Did not fire
You talkin about "perfectly captured"....at 800 iso. The guy asked how to have crystal sharp clarity...your pics aren't an example of what to do, but more of what not to do. Then I see your "take note" and I had to see if you posted this on April 1st and you're just messin with me. Apparently not.
You're def correct that sharpness/clarity comes down to equipment, technique, glass, etc. I can appreciate your passion for capturing, but you've certainly got a vast expanse of room for improvement, wouldn't you agree?
Last edited by KnightDriveTV; 05-03-2020 at 12:49 AM.
04-05-2020, 07:56 PM
How do you get such crystal sharp clarity?
