camotruK

definitely smells like the sweet aroma of Tuna! Sour Creme dip anybody?

corvettejoe98

These are some serious gains for an N/A motor with a fairly small cam compared to what some people run. People barely get 500rwhp out supercharged stock ls1's. I am EXTREMELY impressed. I would like to see some track numbers to see what she can do. I definately see some serious potential power to be unlocked in that dyno sheet. You can easily smooth out the initial torque curve and probably start with 25-35 more ft-lb of torque which would be nice for "off the line" power. I still am impressed as hell about this it makes me re-think the route I was going to take with my car.

CTD

Being a noob self tuner, anything you are willing to share??

2V2NV

This is exactly what I wanted to see! I've been torn between boosted or N/A. The car is pretty "streetable", right?!?! Thanks for the post!!!

camotruK

dont waste your time with NA...the high end HCIE packages will run VERY similar costs to a blower kit....you'll get like 100rwhp more out of the blower vs na and it will drive stock until you hit the go pedal...if I did it again...I wouldnt think twice about dumping this HC junk and supercharging my stock LS6 to 575rwhp+

2V2NV

Thats the whole thing though! Anyone can slap a blower on a car and be done with it ( no knock on boosted cars..Ive had them too), but this guy actually took the time and effort to research the RIGHT set-up and got maximum results for the mods used! I would give a N/A guy like this much more credit than say a boosted guy..IMO!

98vettedave

A good N/A or nitrous car will out perform a FI car of comparable HP/TQ hands down. The FI car will require that extra HP/TQ just to be competitive.

CTD

Looks like I'm going to get in on jacking this thread.

I also have a C6 that I've been thinking of going the SC route. I've never had a boosted motor & think it would be a bit of fun. More school of hard knocks for me.

I know very little when it comes to power adder's, many comments have been made here regarding the under the curve power. That is very operant when you drive my car the improved torque @ low RPM is very noticeable.

Tony & I have had discussion about doing the same cylinder head package for my C6 & how that would complement the SC. The cylinder heads would improve power thru out the power band as they do on my C5.

Under the curve for me!

camotruK

The NA car will have to spend much more moolah than the FI guy to get comparable hp and the N20 guy will be on limited when his bottle runs empty...look at clemsondave he went 10.12 with 100%stock driving car...stock longblock, trans, diff

camotruK

so i see it like this...I spent a lot of money with my top dollar HCIE setup...i make ~460rwhp...Dave did the P1SC kit and made right at 600rwhp...his car doesnt drive ****ty from the big cam...and i think the extra 130rwhp isnt too shabby for comparable money spent!

98vettedave

I make 480+ rwhp on motor (large cam) and the car runs just fine on the street. If your car runs poorly on the street then it must been in the "tune". Granted a stock FI car is less rough sounding than a H/C car,but I just love the sound of power don't you? I think that Dave's last dyno pull was well over 600 HP.

I would think that the P1SC kit when all is said and done would be approximately $8000. In comparison that seems like a lot of money for a good H/C set up.

camotruK

ya my cam is a bear to tune....235 243 111lsa cam in a 346...daves last dyno was 600+ but that was after he swapped to a D1SC...top dollar HCI setups run around 6K all said and done theres vendors offering entry level blower kits for $4500 A&A in the FI section...Vette Doc/ECS vortech blower kits 6499 installed and tuned...might just be my winter project...sell this HCI stuff...put stock ls6 intake, heads, cam and do a blower!

98vettedave

Put a good nitrous direct port kit (150/200 shot) on that bad boy and you'll make killer HP and "torque" instantly with a lot less money spent. That would also allow you to go with a less radical cam so that the car is more street friendly. Just trying to save you a lot of money.

camotruK

Ya a 100 hit would get it in the 10s i guess ha

camotruK

so back to the point of my initial post...the guy who's car is still stock...i would still advise going FI over NA being no money has been spent....Dave youre right it would save me money to go N20 vs FI at this point but if my car was stock and I hadnt blown all this dough already then FI all the way!

paint it black vette

get what you want. i have h/c combo 438rw on a mustang dyno sounds like a muscle car and cam is not huge, also does tens without the juice. h/c 3400, headers with hf cats 1800, intake and t/b 1200 total$6200. also you can add n2 o later for another 100 to150 hp inexpensively.

camotruK

A simple cam change could make mine drive a lot bette...far from dissappointed with mine on my 2nd pass on it i ran 11.10 at almost 128 on a 1.69 60ft, then i broke...whatd u run on ur 2nd pass?...the extra 130rwhp a blower would give has to feel better....and im sorry but the only cam that will truly drive like a stock Z cam is a stock Z cam...no way around it....they can drive stock like but not stock

clemsondave

Ya'll talking about me and I wasn't paying attention.

When I ran the 10.12 and 10.19, I had the P1 pushing 595/490. I have not run with the D1 yet (651/538). The rental will likely be the first time out.

If I was building a car that was going to spend most of it's time on the track, I'd go big NA with possible nitrous. Find the perfect gearing and trans. Pretty much like Rob has done.

If building an easy driving fast as crap street car, I'd do exactly what I have. Hell, I'm expecting 9s with a 6 speed and still get 25-27mpg and very quiet. On the track, though, if you paired my car vs a NA car with the same power, I'd give the edge to the NA car.

camotruK

"easy driving fast as crap street car" describes what 95% of these guys are looking for

Wanna trade cars dave?

clemsondave

It will be for sale very soon......