When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It got into the 70°s yesterday and I had the hood/t-tops/exhaust filler ready to prime so I sprayed some Slick Sand yesterday afternoon. I got a ~$80 Husky gun from Home Depot that has a 2.2 mm tip and it seemed to work pretty well, I had it regulated to about 25 psi at the gun while spraying. The last car I painted ~25 years ago I used a similar gun but only FeatherFill was available back then. The Slick Sand seems to spray easier, I did not reduce it with acetone. I put on one coat heavy enough to cover everything, then let it flash (about 15 minutes) then put on another coat. I ended up using about a quart and a half, which I thought seemed excessive and thought maybe I was putting it on to thick. At this rate I will use close to 2 gallons to cover the car, does that sound right? I went out this morning and did a little sanding on one of the t-tops and it is sanding great, so that is a good sign, but just wondering if I am putting it on too thick if that will cause problems down the road.
the important thing is to take off what is not needed . i do one heavy coat at a time . usually one will do it unless the car is really rough to begin with . sand all edges and peaks down to glass . no need for build there.
I used 2 Gal of Slicksand on a convertible with the hard top, door jambs underside of hood, top cover etc. Car was stripped to bare fiberglass. I think I sanded off a gallon and a half with all the sanding/blocking I did. 1st time I have done this, really good learning experience and a whole new appreciation for people that do this for a living.
If I sand through to the fiberglass in a flat area and it is otherwise smooth should I put a spot spray of slick sand on it and sand it out or can I go over it with a 2K primer without issues? Scott
If I sand through to the fiberglass in a flat area and it is otherwise smooth should I put a spot spray of slick sand on it and sand it out or can I go over it with a 2K primer without issues? Scott
i dont use slicksand in jambs and such. it is filler so i sand thru in many places . then i switch to epoxy . jambs , edges and such only get one coat of epoxy. no build of any kind .
You will use quite a bit more polyester primer than a 2k primer. 2 gallons is not out of the question. Remember polyster primer / slick sand or any other brand needs a 2k primer surface before you seal and paint. You can not paint over poyester primer.
You will use quite a bit more polyester primer than a 2k primer. 2 gallons is not out of the question. Remember polyster primer / slick sand or any other brand needs a 2k primer surface before you seal and paint. You can not paint over poyester primer.
I picked up a second gallon yesterday and if all goes as planned I will spray some of it today. The last cars I painted ~25 years ago I followed Featherfill with K36, Maryland does not allow the sale of K36 but they do allow the PPG shopline 2k primer (JP202 I believe) so that is what I plan on following it up with.
Do they not make K36 anymore? Back in the day they were very similar but K38 was higher build, I did not need that after polyester primer so I used K36. I tinted the K36 on my Daytona yellow 69.
Do they not make K36 anymore? Back in the day they were very similar but K38 was higher build, I did not need that after polyester primer so I used K36. I tinted the K36 on my Daytona yellow 69.
Scott
no more K3Mormon ratio for K38 is 4 to 1 if im using over polyester i us DT reducer fir appropriate temp and mix to 4 /1/1 as a sealer
Got a couple coats for on the rear today. It was a bit on the cool side to spray today but it went on nicely and it should be ready to sand tomorrow. Scott
It turns out that I can still get K36 across the border in PA so I will make like "Smokey and the Bandit" one day next week and pick up a gallon. That is what I used before and it has held up well for ~25+ years so why mess with what works I guess, the $300 price tag stings a bit however.
I am getting ready to start the high build primer phase and just have a question about the process. Is the normal technique to remove the doors, hood and deck lid and spray and block the high build with the parts off the car?
03-30-2020, 11:57 AM
How much Slick Sand to cover a '73 coupe?
