FortMorganAl

I thought I better ask before messing something up. Hit a big something at about 80 in my Machine Silver C6. That Rocker had been repaired a few years ago buy the dealer who cracked it because they didn't bother using lifting pucks even though they are a large dealer selling lots of Corvettes. Don't get me started on dealers.

This scratch is on the bottom outside corner of the passenger side and is about 6 " long. The scratch is very rough to the touch (like a file).




Pay no attention to the "scratch underneath. That is just dirt from where I didn't wash it because it can't be seen without getting under the car. The car was raised with a jack to get these pictures.

This is a daily driver that looks very good but is not intended to be a show car. The scratch is noticeable enough that I want to repair it to the point it doesn't stand out. My intention is to sand it smooth and use Duplicolor or maybe splurge and get a Dr Colorchip kit. I just don't want to make things worse. I'm looking for comments or suggestions. Thanks.

DUB

MAN-OH MAN! Not so easy to make like new.

Well ..obviously it is repairable.

If you are looking for the 'fast and easy' way. It may take time...thus not be FAST. Mainly to allow the processes to dry.

Sanding it smooth is not going to happen because if I am seeing open fibers in your door...you are not going to be able to get them smooth...this is where the applying of a primer by a brush is needed. BETTER more concise control. BECAUSE if you try to spray on a primer...chances are you are going to make the repair area much larger...because you will have to mask the are off carefully and thus more prep is needed....thus making the area larger...thus making it more noticeable. BECAUSE...I hate to write it...it will be noticeable when completed. Chances that it comes out completely unnoticeable is a long shot. I do not care who you get paint from...the odds that the formula matches what you have is a long shot also....and the paint code means NOTHING due to 'variants in the formula that have occurred through that model year or years that that color was used. The paint code is a 'starting point'...where often times I have to tint the color to get it to match. Many people do not know or understand this FACT. The only blessing of this is that it is at the bottom ...along an edge...and that is about it.

The one area of the damage that concerns me the most is along the top edge of the scrape. The paint is chunking off in pieces and I can see that it is wanting to peel off...THIS IS NOT A good sign. It is telling me that the paint that was applied was not done correctly in some way, shape, form or another. When I encounter paint doing this...I HATE it because it is always a problem to get a good 'feather edge' and not have the paint want to peel or lift when a primer is applied. I would bet that this panel that is damaged has been shot on AFTER the factory painted it. I may be wrong ( and YES..I can be wrong)...but I bet it had been painted at some time.

I ...if I were to have to do it this way.....I would very CAREFULLY scuff/sand the top edge sand try not to pop or peel off too much of the paint. If it comes off...OH WELL...it is what it is. Then when that has been prepped with lets say...220 to 320 grit. I would then take my paint brush and with my primer that has been allowed to thicken up a little bit so it would not be too runny. I would carefully begin to apply the primer on the areas and cover any exposed fibers and such. Come back a time later when it has dried and apply more. I am trying to build it up so I can then sand it back down flat...or close to it.

Letting it dry a few days or so....I then would sand that primer with 500 grit and see how that did. If I need to apply more primer...I repeat that process and let that dry.

Then the trick comes due to it being a silver. Because I am a painter I have learned techniques on how to shoot paint...regardless if it out of a spray can, air brush or paint gun. So I would advise you to practice a bit if you have No clue on how to paint.

The trick is prepping the paint for new paint and thus still having enough room to blend it so you do not have a distinct line where one paint starts and one ends....and the still have room for a coat or two of clear.

When all that has been allowed to dry...you can lightly sand with 1500 grit and hand buff to a good shine to remove any overspray. Once again..I have too many tricks and materials that can aid you and what to do with them...and knowing you are looking for a patch job....this is it. You can try to brush in the silver if you choose...but once again...it takes time and patience because it is really hard to brush apply a metallic pearl paint that was shot and atomized. It can be done...but practice and viscosity of the paint can make a difference on how the metallic's lay out when brushed.

DUB

FortMorganAl

You really know how to encourage a guy, don't you? And here I thought this would be an easy fix. Glad I asked.

Yes, there are many fibers broken. But if all it takes to cover those is multiple brushed on primer and sanding, I can handle that. Yes, that rocker panel was repainted a few years ago by the dealer who cracked it because they just threw a jack pad on the panel and hit up to get the car in the air. So much for "The Largest GM Dealer In Downstate Illinois!".

Your intuition is good. I have no clue when it comes to painting a car. I've painted several houses with a brush but that is the extent of my knowledge. I have plenty of time and patience to do brush and sanding work but am afraid of spray with my very limited experience.

Again, this is not a show car and, although this is noticeable to me, it is so low (car had to be raised to get pictures) that last night I went to dinner with a neighbor and she could not see it even after I told her where to look. It is almost under the car. Now once I point it out...

One question today - I assume all the sanding is done wet? Or should it be dry sanding until all the fibers are covered with primer? And I'm on the humid Alabama coast at the moment if that makes a difference.

Thank you for taking the time for a long response.

DUB

I try to cover all possibilities...not only for you..but others who may read this...and have a similar issue.

I just hope that the paint just does not keep flaking off when you try yo prep it. I hope it goes well.

DUB

FortMorganAl

THANK YOU!!!

DUB

Please keep us posted on your success....OR...if you have any more questions/concerns.

DUB