TWINRAY

Day started at 6:30am and ended 12 hours later - and all was masked. I started out mixing 1 qt. which was a mistake as the stuff started to gel when I applied the second cup. Managed to get it out in time to clean the gun up. Then I got smart and mixed a pint at a time. After the 4th coat, I said I could do a qt. mixture if I moved fast - guess I didn't move fast enough as that started to kick off in the gun. Got it cleaned up in time. Guess I managed about 7 coats. Took me 2 days to recouperate

I use Evercoat Gel Coat and this is after the PVC layer was washed off the next day




History of the project:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pain...nt-enough.html

DUB

LOOKS GOOD...But am I still seeing trim on the front and rear windshields and your vent windows in place. I hope you had them out when gel coating.

DUB

TWINRAY

I was afraid to try and get the front trim off so I masked it as best as I could. I pulled the top rear trim back and duct taped it to the rear window glass. Sorry the vent windows stayed in place at least for the GC.

DUB

I HATE to write this..but leaving the windshield trim on can come back and haunt you later....same thing with the window frames.

Applying products to areas that could not be properly prepped and cleaned is where the problem can start.

Having the trim raised up so you can get under it and proper prep it is fine...just as long as you know it is prepped and ready to take a material and adhere. If you can not see what you are prepping...you are guessing that it is "Good enough". That ...in my opinion is NOT GOOD.

I hate removing the trim myself...and I do it from time to time when required....so I can understand where you are coming from. HONESTLY...I DREAD IT!!!!....BUT...I do it....I HAVE to. I just would hate it if any issue 'pops up' around the trim areas. You have put so much time and effort into it. Not writing or implying that there will be an issue....I just know with my luck....something would happen and I would kick myself in the backside for not taking the time. I have been burned by this before... a LONG time ago....so...I know that I do not want to deal with that ever again.

You know best in how things looked before you shot it....I am just voicing my concern. Seeing things that set off 'warning bells' and me NOT commenting on them....would be...down right EVIL.

DUB

TWINRAY

Thank you DUB for all the detailed information you have given me on my 2 Corvette projects. I will be spending today doing #180 sanding on my Gel Coat to get rid of any remaining Orange peel.

DUB

Like I wrote in a PM to you. I would HIGHLY ADVISE you getting some of the dry guide coat from 3M. Due to your gelcoat is so bright...it will aid you tremendously. I use it on some of my light gray primers/sealers and I could not live without it. It saves me from having to shoot a guide coat..because I do not like using a rattle can black paint....and the red oxide lacquer primer takes too much time and wastes good lacquer thinner.

DUB

TWINRAY

I spent most or the day sanding with 180
and am now relaxing with Old Forester 86. Stay cool.

TWINRAY

Wayy more work than I had anticipated.

porchdog

were you wet sanding ?

TWINRAY

Mostly yes, sometimes no just to get rid of the OP.

porchdog

i use 180 wet to clean up glass. it cuts super fast.

DUB

Boy is that an understatement....but well worth it when completed.

DUB

TWINRAY

Ok, after spending 2 days with 180, all orange peel is gone. There are a couple body issues that Sand Slick may not address. Should I VPA now over the Gel Coat OR do the VPA after the Sand Slick? And should I assume the GC wipe off before SS is Acetone. As always, thanks.

DUB

You need to look at your gelcoat as a 'turtle shell'. SO...all body filler, laminating, and such need to be UNDER the gelcoat and NOT on top of it.

I...myself...if a body 'issue' got by me and found that I had to go back in and do a repair....I would grind the gelcoat back...do my filling with VPA (if that is what it would take to fix the 'issue')...THEN ...apply gelcoat over this repair AFTER I KNEW I had cured it well with heat. This is really important if it is on an upper/top surface.

I do not apply any VPA on my polyester primer....I should have everything perfect by this stage and NOT need any more filling.

YES, I do thorough section by section cleaning with the acetone so I get it clean. And I am NOT CHEAP and try to do this cleaning with only two wipers. I go through A LOT of them. The idea is to get it clean...and not just spread crap around from one panel to another by using only one or two wipers. At this stage of the game...it is the small things is what will get you. Each stage is bringing the car more and more into FOCUS....thus requiring a higher level of ATTENTION TO DETAIL....because if you don't...it will show in the end result. Just ONE PINHOLE that is missed...and if it is in the 'right spot'...will stand out and ruin the look.

Carefully check all edges of all panels....that is where a job can be ruined very easily. I am SUPER, SUPER PICKY about the edges of panels. But that is just me.

DUB

TWINRAY

Applied a gallon of SlickSand. Suprised it only covered 2 coats and 3 for the front clip (less the hood) - I thought I would get a bit more coverage but had no idea since I never used it before. Will let it cure 5 days before I block it. It will need some more coverage in some areas to cover some very small gouges when I razor bladed off the old paint and primer - I thought they weren't that bad and that the SS would cover. Since I intend to hit those areas with another coat or 2 (after blocksanding), can I use #180 grit or is that too rough? Also, I have 2 quarts that were manufactured April 2013 and I know Evercoat guarantees their product for 1 year. I opened the cans and of course, there were contains settled on the bottom. I stired/mixed/shaked the can until it was all mixed up and smooth. Any hesistation on using this 16 month product? The gallon I applied was April 2014 manufacture and had absolutely no settlement of product. I throughly mixed it up before application. Thanks

ps. Can I dab with a.small artists brush a drop of SS in the gouge to fill it - then block the drip?

DUB

YES..you can dab it to fill in small spots. Obviously it has been catalyzed.

Starting with 180 is fine. Test it down low on a spot and see how it does.

Honestly...when I get to this point. I shoot my polyester primer and then go straight to wet sanding it for paint. But in those cases where I need to shoot more polyester primer...I block it with 180 and then shoot more polyester primer and then wetsand it for paint.

Knowing that this was you 'maiden voyage' using the primer. Do not beat yourself up over it. Depending on how well it laid down. I would see if Evercoat allows you to use acetone to slightly thin it so when the next two coats go on...the texture can be greatly lessened...thus making the wet sanding not so involved. I use acetone in my polyester primer and it helps out a lot.

I would contact Evercoat and verify that if the primer is OK or not. You have put so much into this...using a product that may be fine...and then may not.... is something I would not do.

DUB

TWINRAY

Hi DUB and thanks for your reply. I did call EC yesterday before I received your reply, told them of my situation and they said to put one of their "putty's" in my gouges. The gouges I speak about are tiny tiny and I'm thinking that after I block sand, I will just hit the area again with more SS - 2 coats should cover IMO. It's confined to the curvature area on the rear deck and one area on the rear fender seam. I'm going to block those areas today and see what the area looks like after. I didn't add anything to the SS when I first sprayed it. With my airflow, I have to move my gun (Vaper 2.3) quite slow to flow nicely - I think actually it gives me more control. I just had a shoulder injury and had to hit the hood and roof lefthanded - I'm righthanded. Came out not too bad (IMO). I'll call EC but I called them once before on shelf life and they said 1 year. In reality, it probably depends on how it was stored. I had it inside so I imagine 3 months over isn't going to really matter. I will have the local True Value hardware store put my quarts in their shaker. Thanks again for the advice.

DUB

I would block and re-apply the Slicksand myself. If the gouges are that small and not deep...the Slicksand will work.

DUB

TWINRAY

That is my plan. I started to blocksand yesterday and will shoot another coat or 2 of SS where needed.

TWINRAY

Well, I blocked the SlickSand with #180


Compared to sanding Gel Coat, SS is childs play. No need for a guide coat.

Went to spray another coat yesterday after blocking and cleaning up the mess of dust and ran into trouble. Gun wouldn't spray - like it was clogged in the breather hole, but I know it wasn't. Maybe the April 2013 manufactured SS was done but since I had a pint in the gun, I thinned it a bit with acetone and got it on. Most will be sanded off anyway. The razor blade gouges were easily treated with a drop of catalized SS applied with an artists brush - dried and blocked. I then went over them with a coat of SS. I'll let it sit 3 days and block with #320 then #400. I still have a qt. of SS left if need be.