69' frame-off repainting
06-24-2014, 11:19 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
69' frame-off repainting
Hi everybody, my name's Mauro and I write you from Italy where I'm restoring a 1969 Coupè. It's a frame off restoration so now I've got body and chassis separated.
Actual color is Le Mans Blue which's also original one and I'd like to repaint the car with this color.
I'm not a pro but I like to do the job myself where is possible but i think that I need the help of a paint shop to complete the paint job because I don't own a paint oven and my hand isn't so expert to do a paint job.
I'm a little scared about paint shops here in italy because they aren't so expert with fiberglass cars, so I'm looking for indications and tricks about how to do it correctly and which products to use helping in this way paint shop job.
The first step I suppose is to get an idea about actual paint situation and how many layers are on the body.
I started removing first paint layer with the razor blade method and now I've found a gray primer as you cans see in these pictures :
The next step should be to go until bare fiberglass in a small area careful using an 80 grid sandpaper right?
After that I will takes some pictures and show you to get your opinion..
Razor blade method will works only for first paint layer or for all other layers until the last one before bare fiberglass?
I've read about use lacquer thinner and red scotch brite to remove paint layers but I didn't understood if is correct only for last layer (the first over fiberglass) or not...
Thank you so much for your help, I will really appreciate it
And sorry for my bad written english, I hope you can understand me anyway
Actual color is Le Mans Blue which's also original one and I'd like to repaint the car with this color.
I'm not a pro but I like to do the job myself where is possible but i think that I need the help of a paint shop to complete the paint job because I don't own a paint oven and my hand isn't so expert to do a paint job.
I'm a little scared about paint shops here in italy because they aren't so expert with fiberglass cars, so I'm looking for indications and tricks about how to do it correctly and which products to use helping in this way paint shop job.
The first step I suppose is to get an idea about actual paint situation and how many layers are on the body.
I started removing first paint layer with the razor blade method and now I've found a gray primer as you cans see in these pictures :
The next step should be to go until bare fiberglass in a small area careful using an 80 grid sandpaper right?
After that I will takes some pictures and show you to get your opinion..
Razor blade method will works only for first paint layer or for all other layers until the last one before bare fiberglass?
I've read about use lacquer thinner and red scotch brite to remove paint layers but I didn't understood if is correct only for last layer (the first over fiberglass) or not...
Thank you so much for your help, I will really appreciate it
And sorry for my bad written english, I hope you can understand me anyway
Last edited by Dream Bikes; 06-24-2014 at 11:28 PM.
06-25-2014, 05:42 PM
#2
Race Director
Mauro,
TRUST ME...your English is not bad at all.
Using the red scotch-brite and lacquer thinner to remove paint is possible. It will all depend on how well it works on a small test area. If you do try using the lacquer thinner method...let the thinner sit on the paint for a little bit and keep it wet with the thinner so the thinner can begin to soften of the paint. NOW...some paints do not soften up easily...and this is where it can get really hard to remove using the lacquer thinner.
DO you have access to chemical paint stripper???
You can sand all the paint off with the 80 grit....but there will be tight areas where you will either want to chemically paint strip it off or sandblast it . Sanding it off with the 80 grit is possible...but you will want to be watchful when doing it so you are not sanding the thickness of the panels down to much.
I sand with 80 grit but usually that is after I have all the paint and primer off and I can look at the body and feel it to see where I need to begin repairing flaws.
I hope this gave you some information...and I know you can do this. It will just take time and patience.
DUB
TRUST ME...your English is not bad at all.
Using the red scotch-brite and lacquer thinner to remove paint is possible. It will all depend on how well it works on a small test area. If you do try using the lacquer thinner method...let the thinner sit on the paint for a little bit and keep it wet with the thinner so the thinner can begin to soften of the paint. NOW...some paints do not soften up easily...and this is where it can get really hard to remove using the lacquer thinner.
DO you have access to chemical paint stripper???
You can sand all the paint off with the 80 grit....but there will be tight areas where you will either want to chemically paint strip it off or sandblast it . Sanding it off with the 80 grit is possible...but you will want to be watchful when doing it so you are not sanding the thickness of the panels down to much.
I sand with 80 grit but usually that is after I have all the paint and primer off and I can look at the body and feel it to see where I need to begin repairing flaws.
I hope this gave you some information...and I know you can do this. It will just take time and patience.
DUB
06-25-2014, 11:48 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Mauro,
TRUST ME...your English is not bad at all.
Using the red scotch-brite and lacquer thinner to remove paint is possible. It will all depend on how well it works on a small test area. If you do try using the lacquer thinner method...let the thinner sit on the paint for a little bit and keep it wet with the thinner so the thinner can begin to soften of the paint. NOW...some paints do not soften up easily...and this is where it can get really hard to remove using the lacquer thinner.
DO you have access to chemical paint stripper???
You can sand all the paint off with the 80 grit....but there will be tight areas where you will either want to chemically paint strip it off or sandblast it . Sanding it off with the 80 grit is possible...but you will want to be watchful when doing it so you are not sanding the thickness of the panels down to much.
I sand with 80 grit but usually that is after I have all the paint and primer off and I can look at the body and feel it to see where I need to begin repairing flaws.
I hope this gave you some information...and I know you can do this. It will just take time and patience.
DUB
TRUST ME...your English is not bad at all.
Using the red scotch-brite and lacquer thinner to remove paint is possible. It will all depend on how well it works on a small test area. If you do try using the lacquer thinner method...let the thinner sit on the paint for a little bit and keep it wet with the thinner so the thinner can begin to soften of the paint. NOW...some paints do not soften up easily...and this is where it can get really hard to remove using the lacquer thinner.
DO you have access to chemical paint stripper???
You can sand all the paint off with the 80 grit....but there will be tight areas where you will either want to chemically paint strip it off or sandblast it . Sanding it off with the 80 grit is possible...but you will want to be watchful when doing it so you are not sanding the thickness of the panels down to much.
I sand with 80 grit but usually that is after I have all the paint and primer off and I can look at the body and feel it to see where I need to begin repairing flaws.
I hope this gave you some information...and I know you can do this. It will just take time and patience.
DUB
I understood about lacquer tinner and scotch brite
As I wrote I started with the razor blade method...I'm removing the first layer Le Mans Blue...under it I can see a layer of grey primer and then seems to see a brown layer...I will sand a limited area to find bare fiberglass to see how many layers are there...
The first question is how many layer can i remove with razor blade? Only the final one? All layers? All layers except the first primer over bare fiberglass?
I like razor blade method so I'd like to use it as much as possible...I know that I should use another method for tight areas...I've got a can of Eastwood Dekote stripper which should works on fiberglass but I'm a little scared about using chemical stripping over fiberglass...are there any tricks to use it without damaging fiberglass and compromise the paint job?
I also own an Eastwood dual sandblaster which works also with soda but i never used it outside...I don't like the idea to cause a soda storm in my garden!
Last edited by Dream Bikes; 06-25-2014 at 11:52 PM.
06-26-2014, 05:07 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
06-26-2014, 06:35 PM
#6
Race Director
The first question is how many layer can i remove with razor blade? Only the final one? All layers? All layers except the first primer over bare fiberglass?
As 'porchdog' had mentioned...you can use a heat gun...but getting all the way to the bare fiberglass is going to be hard. But it may allow you to get more off when heated.
I like razor blade method so I'd like to use it as much as possible...I know that I should use another method for tight areas...I've got a can of Eastwood Dekote stripper which should works on fiberglass but I'm a little scared about using chemical stripping over fiberglass...are there any tricks to use it without damaging fiberglass and compromise the paint job?
YES...the main 'trick' with chemically stripping a Corvette is to be watchful of what you are doing with the stripper. NOW....the main difference in chemical strippers that I have found is the strength in the stripper. Some chemical strippers are weak and take time...while others are strong and can strip paint fast. Kinda like Expresso to regular coffee. Both are the same thing...but one is really strong.
Like I have mentioned to many Corvette Forum members who have called me on this. I ALWAYS tell them is to do a small test spot and see what it takes to get it down to the bare fiberglass...and personally...I prefer to use CLEAN AUTOMOTIVE GRADE lacquer thinner and then acetone to wipe and wash the panels clean of the stripper.
I also own an Eastwood dual sandblaster which works also with soda but i never used it outside...I don't like the idea to cause a soda storm in my garden!
As 'porchdog' had mentioned...you can use a heat gun...but getting all the way to the bare fiberglass is going to be hard. But it may allow you to get more off when heated.
I like razor blade method so I'd like to use it as much as possible...I know that I should use another method for tight areas...I've got a can of Eastwood Dekote stripper which should works on fiberglass but I'm a little scared about using chemical stripping over fiberglass...are there any tricks to use it without damaging fiberglass and compromise the paint job?
YES...the main 'trick' with chemically stripping a Corvette is to be watchful of what you are doing with the stripper. NOW....the main difference in chemical strippers that I have found is the strength in the stripper. Some chemical strippers are weak and take time...while others are strong and can strip paint fast. Kinda like Expresso to regular coffee. Both are the same thing...but one is really strong.
Like I have mentioned to many Corvette Forum members who have called me on this. I ALWAYS tell them is to do a small test spot and see what it takes to get it down to the bare fiberglass...and personally...I prefer to use CLEAN AUTOMOTIVE GRADE lacquer thinner and then acetone to wipe and wash the panels clean of the stripper.
I also own an Eastwood dual sandblaster which works also with soda but i never used it outside...I don't like the idea to cause a soda storm in my garden!
DUB
06-26-2014, 11:12 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
More progress...
I'm removing the first layer, with the heat gun help I can remove more....which's better, one layer at a time or much layers possible at a time??
I'm removing the first layer, with the heat gun help I can remove more....which's better, one layer at a time or much layers possible at a time??
06-27-2014, 05:53 PM
#8
Race Director
When stripping paint off....the main thing is to not damage the body. I know some little nicks and things will happen. BUT if you are trying to remove multiple layers at one time. It will all depend if you can do it without damaging you body too much.
Each car is different...so it is hard to tell you what you can or can not do. This part of a paint job is time consuming...and that is why I prefer to use chemical strippers... once I have EASILY removed the paint that will come off EASILY.
Just be careful and if you are using a heat gun...do not get the body really hot.
DUB
Each car is different...so it is hard to tell you what you can or can not do. This part of a paint job is time consuming...and that is why I prefer to use chemical strippers... once I have EASILY removed the paint that will come off EASILY.
Just be careful and if you are using a heat gun...do not get the body really hot.
DUB
06-29-2014, 06:15 PM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
After a fast check seems that I've got only two layers of primer (one grey and one red/brown) after Le Mans Blue paint...
Maybe original paint?
I also gave a better look at my garage and I've found these abrasives :
http://www.armex.com/products/maintenance-xl
http://www.newageblastmedia.com/~bac...izes_data.html (coarse mesh)
The second one seems too much aggressive but can armex maintenance-xl works fine on a fiberglass body?
Maybe original paint?
I also gave a better look at my garage and I've found these abrasives :
http://www.armex.com/products/maintenance-xl
http://www.newageblastmedia.com/~bac...izes_data.html (coarse mesh)
The second one seems too much aggressive but can armex maintenance-xl works fine on a fiberglass body?
06-29-2014, 06:31 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
With the help of the heat gun I've found the right way with a scraper to remove two layers at the same time at the rear end (also flat surface helped ).
Under brown primer you can see some little fiberglass spots...so to remove this last layer of primer to bare fiberglass I will try before with the most gentle method (lacquer thinner + scotchbrite, right?) and if won't work fine I'll try with chemical stripper or sandblasting (if maintenance media XL could works). Can also block sanding works properly?
).Under brown primer you can see some little fiberglass spots...so to remove this last layer of primer to bare fiberglass I will try before with the most gentle method (lacquer thinner + scotchbrite, right?) and if won't work fine I'll try with chemical stripper or sandblasting (if maintenance media XL could works). Can also block sanding works properly?
06-30-2014, 07:11 PM
#11
Race Director
The Corvette has a paint job over the factory job.
You can try the lacquer thinner/ red scotch-brite method. I also use a very rough steel wool...which does not hurt the body.
AS for your media...it all depends on how aggressive it actually is.
Test a small spot and see what it does...obviously.
DUB
You can try the lacquer thinner/ red scotch-brite method. I also use a very rough steel wool...which does not hurt the body.
AS for your media...it all depends on how aggressive it actually is.
Test a small spot and see what it does...obviously.
DUB
07-02-2014, 08:43 PM
#12
Race Director
Mauro. I purchased a book on How To Paint Your Car On A Budget in your own garage.
I have it for sale here in this section but in the spirit of Corvette brotherhood I will mail it to you for free.
Simply send me a PM with your mailing address and I will send it to you.
Ciao, Arrivederci
I have it for sale here in this section but in the spirit of Corvette brotherhood I will mail it to you for free.
Simply send me a PM with your mailing address and I will send it to you.
Ciao, Arrivederci
07-02-2014, 08:46 PM
#13
Race Director
You may want to watch this video. This Forum member was the inspiration for me to paint my Corvette. This is the first part of the series. Be sure to watch them all.
07-03-2014, 01:58 AM
#14
Safety Car
Mauro. I purchased a book on How To Paint Your Car On A Budget in your own garage. I have it for sale here in this section but in the spirit of Corvette brotherhood I will mail it to you for free. Simply send me a PM with your mailing address and I will send it to you. Ciao, Arrivederci
07-03-2014, 05:38 PM
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Corvetterown for useful videos and for your kind offer about the book, if is SA-Design SA117 by Pat Ganahi I already own it. I gave it a fast read in the past at restoring begin, but I will read it again (more accurately) next week...should help to have a better idea of the job!
Ciao!
Ciao!
07-03-2014, 06:18 PM
#16
Race Director
Honestly...from a guy who paints Corvettes or a living.....I had to push myself away from the computer when this video was playing. I did not want any 'bad things in the video' to jump out of the monitor and stick to me.
I know he is not a professional...but using this video as a gauge or guide is something I would not advise. It does show that you can remove parts and sand the surface.
Several areas of this car when prepped...the way they were prepped... can come back and haunt someone if they use this video as an "approved process standard". Once again...it depends on what level of paint you are looking for. IN MY OPINION...If you are looking for a great paint job...this video is not something you would want to reference.
The reason the paint came off easily on the front bumper is because it has been replaced with a new one at one time or another in its life. NOT the bumper the car left the factory with...that is for sure.
Rear bumper needs to be removed and not loosened. That little gap he showed does NOTHING other than keep your paint from 'bridging'. Now....of course...he may have removed it and did it correctly at a later date...BUT this video did not show that so I am commenting on what we all can see. No way to prep the flanges and trim them out and then re-install the cover with the gap...which needs to be greater than what he showed....then removed for clearcoating...depending on how much gap you can achieve so basecoat and clear can get on the flanges.....because if it can not be prepped and trimmed out correctly....there is a high chance that this is where the paint will pop off in time.
I KNOW...I KNOW...I am picking this video apart...but what I am writing is not to bash the guy....just to let people who know NOTHING about painting a car...'think' that this video is something that will get their car correctly painted...if they follow how this guy did it.
The funny thing is ...the way to tell if all is GOOD....is to see this car (or any car) a year later close up. That is when the smallest of things that were overlooked or not implemented during the prep stage....can become a flaw or REALLY, REALLY BIG PROBLEM. DO NOT ask me how I KNOW this.
DUB
I know he is not a professional...but using this video as a gauge or guide is something I would not advise. It does show that you can remove parts and sand the surface.
Several areas of this car when prepped...the way they were prepped... can come back and haunt someone if they use this video as an "approved process standard". Once again...it depends on what level of paint you are looking for. IN MY OPINION...If you are looking for a great paint job...this video is not something you would want to reference.
The reason the paint came off easily on the front bumper is because it has been replaced with a new one at one time or another in its life. NOT the bumper the car left the factory with...that is for sure.
Rear bumper needs to be removed and not loosened. That little gap he showed does NOTHING other than keep your paint from 'bridging'. Now....of course...he may have removed it and did it correctly at a later date...BUT this video did not show that so I am commenting on what we all can see. No way to prep the flanges and trim them out and then re-install the cover with the gap...which needs to be greater than what he showed....then removed for clearcoating...depending on how much gap you can achieve so basecoat and clear can get on the flanges.....because if it can not be prepped and trimmed out correctly....there is a high chance that this is where the paint will pop off in time.
I KNOW...I KNOW...I am picking this video apart...but what I am writing is not to bash the guy....just to let people who know NOTHING about painting a car...'think' that this video is something that will get their car correctly painted...if they follow how this guy did it.
The funny thing is ...the way to tell if all is GOOD....is to see this car (or any car) a year later close up. That is when the smallest of things that were overlooked or not implemented during the prep stage....can become a flaw or REALLY, REALLY BIG PROBLEM. DO NOT ask me how I KNOW this.
DUB