74 LS4-454

Posting some pics of my 82 and would like info on what material to use for this repair....any info is appreciated......thanks....Tom

Dave Tracy

You will need to use EPOXY(not polyester)resin and mat glass after you trim away the broken glass.

TWINRAY

West (brand) epoxy is strong stuff.

DUB

YEP...

The WEST SYSTEMS EPOXY RESIN is what I would use AFTER I ground out any distressed SMC. AND that is if it is needed at all. I have seen bonding strip separations like this after a light hit. In some cases the SMC is damaged but not to the extent that it would take a severe amount of matt and epoxy resin to repair. And with the damage being right at the bonding seam/strip area. The adhesive I use to re-bond the panels back together can do a 'double-duty'. The adhesive can bond it back together and also fill in bad areas. Then the Vette Panel Adhesive is used to finalize the outer shaping of the repair.

SO it all depends.

DUB

<73Vette>

Plyogrip makes a 2 part system for fiberglass that would work on that. My opinion easier to use. do the same procedures to prep the area.

Can get plyogrip at most auto refinishing store/vendor.

DUB

I have used the 'Pliogrip' from Ashland Chemicals...but it like many 2 part adhesives...they are...or can be solvent sensitive.

And having to invest in a gun to apply it can add to the costs.

To each his/her own. I just know I would not use the Pliogrip or any 2 part cartridge material for this repair. I have a 'method to my madness" and seeing how it works and does not fail or cause 'comebacks'....it is hard to change something that has worked for a very long time. Sometimes trying to 're-invent the wheel' is pointless...in my opinion.

DUB

74 LS4-454

DUB
What is the adhesive that you use? We are going to do this repair tomorrow, along with filling the holes for the luggage rack on the 74 that you and I spoke about years ago.
So I should pick up the West systems Epoxy Resin just in case I need it along with the adhesive you recommend.
We also have the fiberglass mat needed for the repairs on the 74.
Thanks for any info...

And thanks to all that have responded. It is appreciated.
Tom

PS.....what is the difference between the #105 & #105A? Are they similar?
I found that the 105 comes in a gallon size and the 105a
comes in a quart size. can I use the 105a???

DUB

I use the SMC PANEL ADHESIVE (part #994) from EVERCOAT. NOW...it ALL DEPENDS...because just by looking at your photo...I can NOT confirm or deny that it would be the BEST repair method/adhesive. Would it work...YES ...but there are 'tricks' with it to make it work.

Before I can put my 'stamp of approval' on it...I would need a photo after it has been prepped and a very good description on what is broken/separated. And how the separated/broken parts can be opened up wider so this adhesive can fill in the gap(s) easily.

AS for the resin (105). You do not need a gallon so the quart size will be fine.

DO NOT laminate this stuff in the SUN...or allow your mix to get in the sun. AND...when pumping the resin and hardener....do it slowly. You do not want your 'pumps' to get air in them and it possibly can effect the mix/cure rate. AND...pump only a few pumps of each...for example MAX being 4. Because if you have a large volume of the mix...and it is hot outside....the chemical reaction within the mix can make it set up in your mixing container really fast. When I use it...I am always mixing more...which is better than going in and the stuff has gelled and I have to throw it away.

DUB

74 LS4-454

Thanks DUB, I should be able to send you a pic tomorrow after we open it up.....Tom

I'll post it here of course. ....

74 LS4-454

DUB, did not have a chance to get working on the 82, that is scheduked for this Saturday, so pics will be posted later that day.
I went ahead and ordered the Evercoat SMC Panel Adhesive #994. Only toward the front part of the crack at the bumper area, does it seem to go through, the other part still looks together as it did not break through.

Posting some pics of the holes filled for the luggage rack on the 74, Sal is going to finish them up also on Saturday, I think it came out good so far.

Tom

DUB

Tom,
On the luggage rack holes...if I may....I have to respond.

Now I know that you posted photo's...and that does not mean that is what they looked like when the job was being done. BUT...

If I had to comment off the photo's. The taper is not large enough, And the fact that I am seeing filler on paint is a big NO-NO. And hopefully the filler was not on the paint when it was primed...that is also a BIG NO-NO. And the fact that I can not tell if you did any filling from the underside.

And the 994 you are getting is what I would have used with some matt...if not laminating WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin in the holes....from both sides.

Not wanting to put any bad MOJO on this...but I wonder if these spots will not show up.

If you are happy with them...that is all that matters.

DUB

74 LS4-454

DUB, you are the man with the experience, so your critique is more than welcome. I did not do the work, my buddy Sal did, so I'm off the hook.....
He used some type of gel with the matt, and will do the underneath this week. I remember you had mentioned years ago to do the underneath first and then the top, but........
The back deck has some issues and will have to be sanded and shot and blended in.
I am also thinking about putting the rack back on, but not crooked like the PO had done from way back when......
I will let Sal read this and learn......
Don't know if I can ever accomplish everything you suggest, but by no means stop your thoughts on what is being done, it's the only way we will learn.
The 82 is scheduled for Saturday as mentioned earlier with finishing up on the 74. I hope it all goes well....
and thanks, it is appreciated.......... Tom

DUB

No worries. I am not on board with the gel stuff he used because if the concentrations of the resin and matt are not really good...you can have an issue with this type of material...especially where it is located.

Some of these 'new' products are good...but NOT always a 'go to' product. And the discussions I have with some Area reps on some of these products...I can tell that they 'back-pedal' a bit when I start to pressure them in making sure it is going to last and be perfect right off the bat. like I tell them...it is new...how long have they tested it and abused it to see what it is going to do....and the normal reply...."Well---I do not know"....Then I say-- "Well...back to the tested and proven materials that I know work".

My suggestions are just that...all I am trying to do is NOT sit silent and see a potential failure that if I opened up my mouth and typed it out...could help out someone......that's all.

DUB

RBrid

Dub, I have reading your posts here for close to a year. Please don't be silent. We need your input! Thanks for the tremendous amount of time you spend helping us

DUB

Thanks and I hope I am helpful to you also. I try when I can..because I believe that if the roles were switched...and I needed help....I hope someone would take the time to help out.

I am sure you know that my perspective it different than many others. Like you know...I have to warranty my work and I am not a 'do-it-yourselfer' working on my Corvette. Which in some cases...I 'lock horns' with some members...which 'is what it is'... and sometimes seems like the time I spend typing out 'things' so people can understand it gets overlooked....especially when my response was the answer to the issue. But...."whatever"....my advice is FREE....use it if you like and if you don't and you have a problem...and my advice could have stopped the problem from occurring...then at least I tried.

Thanks again for the kind comment.

DUB

74 LS4-454

update on the 82......

tomorrow's work is canceled, but had another corvette buddy look at the 82, and his thoughts are that the bonding strip is not affected, and that the front part of the panel is separated from the bonding strip but the bonding strip is not broken. He also seems to think that the panel need to be re-glued to the bonding strip and the rest of the 8" or so crack can be taken care of with the #994 adhesive. That's where we're at now, hopefully will get to it soon.
So this thread might fall asleep until we get to the 82......Tom

DUB

The 994 can do all of this.....bond the bonding strip back in place and also fill the seam.

994 is NOT a filler......REPEAT NOT a filler. it REQUIRES VOLUME of itself to harden. So a razor blade skim coat of it on a small chip will NEVER CURE....but if you applied a 'pad of butter' amount of the 994 it would cure.

I would still cover the repaired area in the Vette Panel Adhesive....which CAN NOT be used in this area and and ADHESIVE FOR BONDING....but can be used to fill over the seam AFTER it has been bonded with the 994.

DUB

74 LS4-454

DUB, excuse my confusion but I am assuming that the Vette Panel Adhesive is different from the 994 and can only be used after the 994 has cured and shaped, correct???? If that is the case, is there a brand name and part # for the Vette Panel Adhesive??? thanks..Tom

DUB

NO WORRIES Tom,

YES ..Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler can be used as an adhesive and filler for NON-SMC panbels......AND...it can fill on SMC...BUT NOT BOND SMC. Its part number is 100870 (quart) 100880 (gallon) Evercoat is the name brand.

So the 994 from Evercoat is used and then the Vette Panel Adhesive/filler is applied on top of it. So do not be afraid to cut/grind the 994 back a little so you get at least an 1/8" of VPA on top and shaped.

I would HIGHLY ADVISE you to contact Evercoat...so you can find out how they date code their products.

The reason being...I have had numerous forum member go and try to buy it...and the store they are going to get it from has it on the shelf...and when the forum members checked the date code...the product is 3+ years out of date. SO...if you don't call and find out....and check what you are buying.....because most people do not buy it...and it can be old....and you apply what you bought that is OLD and out of date....and it FAILS.....

I DO NOT WANT TO READ ABOUT IT!

Also apply some common sense. If you go to a paint shop and go to buy it....and they have it on a shelf where the sun can come in and be on it for a good portion of the day....what would that tell you???? I have a jobber that has done just that...the Evercoat products are on a shelf in direct sunlight...and I will not buy the stuff. I go to another that has it in a warehouse. And for those who read this and are not aware....even in a closed/sealed can...the product can crystallize when repeatedly heated.

DUB

74 LS4-454

DUB, went right out to the garage and checked #994, only markings I found on the can were on the bottom...302333 will call Evercoat and find out the info.....
Also came with a small tube of cream hardener attached.
The paint supply I purchased from said their jobber had one left, and the can looks new, no dust, etc.

Great info as usual, a verty good learning experience to say the least.
Everyone, have a good 4th Tom