manofsteel1

The guy who painted my '73 vette from "Earle Scheib" red to the original 1973 yellow did a great job buy the paint was too light in several places. He just painted it last August or so with base and clearcoat. I went to Fl for the winter and he was busy so he asked me to keep the car til we came back. No problem....was in a garage all winter. Now I took it back to him and he did not have enough paint to do everything and even with the paint he had did not match very well. Seems lighter. He claims that he can not get any more of that paint made by DuPont due that they only make "waterbase" paint anymore.
Is he handing me a bunch of malarky?? Is it true? What can I do about getting more of last years base and clearcoat. Also, why did the paint not match. He said that this paint does not blend very well.
I said to him that if I ever had a scratch or an accident then the whole car would have to be repainted. Does all of this sound REAL to you painter. Sny help sure make me happy so I get my nicely painted yellow vette completed. He did do a good paint job tho!

DUB

DuPont does not ONLY make waterbase. That I feel is a crock of crap. The issue may be that in your state...they may ONLY ALLOW wasterbase paint to be shot for EPA reasons.

Why don't you call around to paint suppliers and ask them???? Why not contact Dupont directly???? Find the DuPont area paint rep in your area and talk with that person. They would know what the current laws and complaint materials that can be sold in your state. Also...I have heard from many acquaintances that live in states that are really strict on what can be shot....they come to my state and buy paint that they can not buy in their state...take it back and shoot it.

Knowing that yellow has white in it. If when he went into the paint that was mixed for your car INITIALLY...he stirred it slightly....and not getting the toner(s) on the bottom of the can mixed well with all the paint above it. And I BET that the white toner is on the bottom of the can because it is more than likely the first toner added to the can to begin mixing the color to formula. And with this white toner not being mixed totally into all of the other toners evenly....and some of the white staying on the bottom of the can (which would not take much)... It could cause the yellow to be 'richer' in color. So he poured out the paint...reduced it...shot it and then cleared it. THEN...he goes back in the left over paint and stirred it up...and the toners on the bottom are now mixed in with the other paint in the can and now it is lighter due to the white toner on the bottom of the can got mixed well into the paint in the can. MAKE SENSE???.

Also...shooting it in a humid day with a fast reducer can cause the color to blush. which can make it look 'milky'. Versus painting it on a 'good' day and the correct temperature grade of reducer allows the basecoat to flash slowly... so all the moisture in the paint can evaporate out BEFORE the basecoat flashes off totally. Red paint can turn pink...black cars can turn gray ...just due to moisture in the paint and the reducer being too fast for the conditions. Applying a lot of basecoat can cause for issues also.

Anyway...nothing to be fearful...if you are...on waterbased paint.

What paint is he talking about that does not blend well????? He and you both lost me there. IF he is A PAINTER.....blending is a part of the job. NOW...if all he does is shoot all-overs...then there may be the 'problem'. NOT the paint...but the person shooting the paint.

Contact the area rep for Dupont and talk with them.

DUB

CF6873

Yes Delaware did recently go to the new compliant only paints.

The problem with yellow is that it does not cover very well and can easily take 4-7 coats to get coverage depending on the color of the sealer and the type of basecoat that was used.
If your painter blended in some spots he may now have better hiding on these spots than adjacent spots that may have dark sealer shining through, thus making it lighter and brighter.

Your painter should have done a spray out card to determine how many coats it would take to get full hiding, and used check hiding squares during the paint job to make sure enough paint was applied.

Probably the only way to get a perfect job at this point is complete reshoot. He could fine sand the car and apply 2 coats of waterborne paint and reclear.

Good Luck,
Craig

porchdog

yellow covering gray will not look close to the can. this is why i shoot yellow over white . sucks your stuck with water .

CF6873

Actually the new law for these areas states the paints must be compliant.
This does not mean waterborne is mandatory. There are solvent borne 3.5 VOC basecoats that are compliant by using exempt solvents. It is my understanding that some of these spray very much like original solvent basecoats.

DUB

When I shoot yellow....white goes on first.

I have been shooting with a complaint solvent in my paint for some time in my state. And I have shot the waterborne paint also. I am actually just about ready to pull the trigger and switch to waterborne. My issue is the air drying system that I need in the booth.

Hopefully the original poster can find some resolution on this color issue.

DUB

<73Vette>

pull that trigger DUB you will enjoy painting more with water I did, but I dint have to pay $12,000 to have the air blowers put in sorry

they do sell the stand alone fans that could get you by for the fraction of the price, I have seen shops do it. unless you plan on doing a lot of complete paint jobs, even then just turn the heat up between coats would help.

<73Vette>

I agree with the above statements the car should be painted all at once if possible because even mixing paint separate times can cause a tint change, not so much in solid colors tho. one trick that helps me is before you clear and you think the color has covered you repair area is to shut booth lights off and use a sun gun to look at the area. with sun gun focuses your yes on one area can bring out any area that might be modeling or transparent.

DUB

I am thinking that I will plumb the air myself like I have done all of my air lines and components..and then just buy the heads.

I love the waterborne paint. I have done a lot of small parts ....but not an overall at my shop yet. I have shot many overalls in a shop that were it was set up for it when the painter was out and the car needed to go without any problems.

DUB

<73Vette>

hello DUB from reading your posts I would say you have more experiences then me and I would be glad to ask you any questions on my bodywork for my corvette when it comes time to restore it. I have only worked with fiberglass a few times and that was on campers. My experience and training is on new vehicles and it is sheet metal and collision work not restoration. Keep up the good work with helping people out I guarantee that people are extremely thankful for the help you give them I know I am every time I come on the forum to solve my problems

Justin

DUB

Justin,

I know all about the collision part of paint and body work and working on steel body cars also. As WE both know...they may be different..( fiberglass/SMC vs. steel)....but the person doing the work STILL has to know what to do and when to do it or there can be a major problem....like I have seen in the past.

If you do have any issues that you can not figure out on your own...or want to see if what you think is the best way to repair your Corvette. I would be more than glad to add any information to aid you in making the best decision. I will write that I am a bit on the extreme side of my processes for a repair in most scenarios....mainly because as you know... (doing body and paint work also)...I (we) do not have the time to do it twice...especially if I (WE) COULD HAVE spent the time to do it correctly the first time by just employing a few extra steps.


DUB

Dt86

Agreed!