Removing Bondo, etc.
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Removing Bondo, etc.
I started removing the paint, etc. on my 65 convertible. I knew that the car had been "tapped" in the rear but have discovered that there must have been a sale on bondo at the time. I have been using a heat gun and razor blade scraper. The problems are:
1) Taking a long time
2) Tend to dig in even when being careful
3) There is some kind of dark material between the bondo and fiberglass; no idea what it is
A few questions:
1) Will plastic bead media blasting remove the bondo?
2) Any idea what the dark stuff is?
3) Faster/safer way to remove the bondo?
Here are a few pictures:
1) Taking a long time
2) Tend to dig in even when being careful
3) There is some kind of dark material between the bondo and fiberglass; no idea what it is
A few questions:
1) Will plastic bead media blasting remove the bondo?
2) Any idea what the dark stuff is?
3) Faster/safer way to remove the bondo?
Here are a few pictures:
#2
Race Director
Had a similar mess in the front of my '71 and decided to just replace those panels. Odds are once you finally get all the bondo off, the panels are so damaged and patched they're not usable anyway.
#3
Race Director
The problems are:
1) Taking a long time
What else is new on that one.
2) Tend to dig in even when being careful
Does not matter...dig away
3) There is some kind of dark material between the bondo and fiberglass; no idea what it is
Mystery product...seen them many times
A few questions:
1) Will plastic bead media blasting remove the bondo?
YES...but it is a waste of time. Grind it out. Which is why you do not need to worry about gouging the body with a razor blade.
2) Any idea what the dark stuff is?
NO idea..photo's often times do not help
3) Faster/safer way to remove the bondo?
As I wrote above...grind it out. I do it quite often.
1) Taking a long time
What else is new on that one.
2) Tend to dig in even when being careful
Does not matter...dig away
3) There is some kind of dark material between the bondo and fiberglass; no idea what it is
Mystery product...seen them many times
A few questions:
1) Will plastic bead media blasting remove the bondo?
YES...but it is a waste of time. Grind it out. Which is why you do not need to worry about gouging the body with a razor blade.
2) Any idea what the dark stuff is?
NO idea..photo's often times do not help
3) Faster/safer way to remove the bondo?
As I wrote above...grind it out. I do it quite often.
It will boil down to what you want...what you are willing to do and how much time and money you want to invest.
DUB
#5
Race Director
I use several types...it all depends on the surface area I am trying to grind. Usually my "go-to-tool" is the 3 inch Rol-loc grinding discs. I use 24, 36 and 80 grit. I also have the 8 inch pad that uses the 8 inch (duh) adhesive backed sanding discs...and I use 36 and 80 grit on it.
A couple of tips or tricks. Using a grinder is much like driving a car...when driving a car...you do not have to have your foot to the floor and revving the engine. The grinder is the same way. Controlling the rotating speed, pressure and travel speed will make you less prone to a screw-up.
Also within reason...not allowing the grinder to wind up to top RPM...will also save you sandpaper/discs and not wear them out prematurely.
Lastly, if grinding at a good moderate speed...try to have you grinding disc rotate so your "bondo" is being ground on in a way that the "bondo" is being sent to the ground....instead of going straight up in your face and in the air. It can make clean-up easier and not having dust all over the place. YES...I know...you are going to get dusty..but if you try it...you will see that a lot will hit the floor and 5 feet away there is no dust cloud. I set up a vacuum system ...but that is just me on big grinding jobs.
Just go slow and be watchful. Like I wrote before...if the underside/backside of the panel in this area of bondo is good...the panel can be repaired...but it will be up to you if you do or not.
DUB
A couple of tips or tricks. Using a grinder is much like driving a car...when driving a car...you do not have to have your foot to the floor and revving the engine. The grinder is the same way. Controlling the rotating speed, pressure and travel speed will make you less prone to a screw-up.
Also within reason...not allowing the grinder to wind up to top RPM...will also save you sandpaper/discs and not wear them out prematurely.
Lastly, if grinding at a good moderate speed...try to have you grinding disc rotate so your "bondo" is being ground on in a way that the "bondo" is being sent to the ground....instead of going straight up in your face and in the air. It can make clean-up easier and not having dust all over the place. YES...I know...you are going to get dusty..but if you try it...you will see that a lot will hit the floor and 5 feet away there is no dust cloud. I set up a vacuum system ...but that is just me on big grinding jobs.
Just go slow and be watchful. Like I wrote before...if the underside/backside of the panel in this area of bondo is good...the panel can be repaired...but it will be up to you if you do or not.
DUB
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I use several types...it all depends on the surface area I am trying to grind. Usually my "go-to-tool" is the 3 inch Rol-loc grinding discs. I use 24, 36 and 80 grit. I also have the 8 inch pad that uses the 8 inch (duh) adhesive backed sanding discs...and I use 36 and 80 grit on it.
A couple of tips or tricks. Using a grinder is much like driving a car...when driving a car...you do not have to have your foot to the floor and revving the engine. The grinder is the same way. Controlling the rotating speed, pressure and travel speed will make you less prone to a screw-up.
Also within reason...not allowing the grinder to wind up to top RPM...will also save you sandpaper/discs and not wear them out prematurely.
Lastly, if grinding at a good moderate speed...try to have you grinding disc rotate so your "bondo" is being ground on in a way that the "bondo" is being sent to the ground....instead of going straight up in your face and in the air. It can make clean-up easier and not having dust all over the place. YES...I know...you are going to get dusty..but if you try it...you will see that a lot will hit the floor and 5 feet away there is no dust cloud. I set up a vacuum system ...but that is just me on big grinding jobs.
Just go slow and be watchful. Like I wrote before...if the underside/backside of the panel in this area of bondo is good...the panel can be repaired...but it will be up to you if you do or not.
DUB
A couple of tips or tricks. Using a grinder is much like driving a car...when driving a car...you do not have to have your foot to the floor and revving the engine. The grinder is the same way. Controlling the rotating speed, pressure and travel speed will make you less prone to a screw-up.
Also within reason...not allowing the grinder to wind up to top RPM...will also save you sandpaper/discs and not wear them out prematurely.
Lastly, if grinding at a good moderate speed...try to have you grinding disc rotate so your "bondo" is being ground on in a way that the "bondo" is being sent to the ground....instead of going straight up in your face and in the air. It can make clean-up easier and not having dust all over the place. YES...I know...you are going to get dusty..but if you try it...you will see that a lot will hit the floor and 5 feet away there is no dust cloud. I set up a vacuum system ...but that is just me on big grinding jobs.
Just go slow and be watchful. Like I wrote before...if the underside/backside of the panel in this area of bondo is good...the panel can be repaired...but it will be up to you if you do or not.
DUB
#7
Burning Brakes
Aircraft paint stripper will soften up the filler and you can use a razor blade to peal off about a paper thickness each swipe, takes awhile but it will come off clean.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I am using both - stripper and a heat gun. Heat gun seems to work better on the bondo. It appears that most of the panels from behind look OK so I am hoping they can be saved. I will post pictures from underneath tomorrow.
#9
Race Director