Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

Bare glass sealer/primer....

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Old 05-19-2014, 09:20 AM
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joerob727
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Default Bare glass sealer/primer....

Hey guys.
I need to know what the best thing to spray directly over bare glass. I just had my '64 soda blasted and need to seal it quick before taking it to a chassis shop.
Gelcoat? Primer? Recommendations?

Thanks for your time.
Old 05-19-2014, 01:21 PM
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porchdog
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you need to do some serious washing first . dawn soap and water then rinse very well and then let it dry for a few days in the sun.
Old 05-19-2014, 06:15 PM
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DUB
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Originally Posted by joerob727
Hey guys.
I need to know what the best thing to spray directly over bare glass. I just had my '64 soda blasted and need to seal it quick before taking it to a chassis shop.
Gelcoat? Primer? Recommendations?

Thanks for your time.
"Recommendations"

Sorry...but....you should have done all your suspension work before you had it soda blasted. In my opinion...there is NOTHING "quick" at this stage.

I 1000% agree with porchdog....you really need to make sure it is REALLY clean before you apply anything on it. I am not a fan of the sods blasting myself...but that is not important. Getting it clean is PARAMOUNT!!!!

I hate to write this... but.... in my opinion...you are trying to do things out of process. I do not know you time line or anything else...so please excuse me if you feel that I am "out-of line"...but I have a procedure when doing Corvettes and this procedure has never failed me. I know that there is more than one way to skin a cat...but I have found...and others may agree...that when any mechanical work is being performed or needing to be performed...it needs to be done before you do the body work. So any penetrating sprays, oils or whatever that may get on the body can be removed. OR do these mechanical repairs after it has been painted...especially if the repairs do not cause for people to lean on the painted surfaces.

Due to your body is stripped and I hope it is completely stripped and no paint remains anywhere. Applying anything on it when it may require body work is kind of a waste of time and money. Because this product may need to be removed so repairs can be made. You wrote "quick" in your post so that is giving me the feeling that you are just wanting to get it protected so you can go to the suspension shop....and gives me the feeling that being "quick" is important. Hard to tell where your thoughts are.

I use gelcoat...but there is nothing "quick" about it at all. I know other's may chime in and give suggestions...but I feel you may be at this stage for a while to get things correct so whatever you apply is time and money well spent.

DUB
Old 05-23-2014, 07:15 PM
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zwede
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Don't know your circumstances or anything, but could you take the body off the chassis?

Any primer/paint you spray on the body at this stage really needs to come back off to do body work.
Old 05-25-2014, 08:49 PM
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chargeron
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I'm sorta in the same boat with my 69. Had it soda blasted before I read about all the issues with adhesion. I've used the holdtight solution a total of 4 times. It may be overkill but I figure it can't hurt. Porchdog,you suggest washing it down with dawn and rinsing.Do you find that works well for these soda blasted bodies? I wont soda blast again but thats already done,Ijust want to make sure this part geys done right. Goodluck and thanks.
Old 05-26-2014, 09:26 AM
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porchdog
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i use dawn soap for cleaning. it does a good job of lifting oils off the surface. you want to lift the contaminates so you can rinse them off . never use anything that will dilute and soak it into the glass. i use a white brush and scrub well with soapy water then rinse right away .
i do not use holdtight for anything .
Old 07-25-2014, 05:12 PM
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vstol
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I just used Duratec as recommended to me by Jeff at Mid America Industries. Great fill easy sand then epoxy primer on that.
Old 09-01-2014, 03:10 AM
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joerob727
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Originally Posted by DUB
"Recommendations"

Sorry...but....you should have done all your suspension work before you had it soda blasted. In my opinion...there is NOTHING "quick" at this stage.

I 1000% agree with porchdog....you really need to make sure it is REALLY clean before you apply anything on it. I am not a fan of the sods blasting myself...but that is not important. Getting it clean is PARAMOUNT!!!!

I hate to write this... but.... in my opinion...you are trying to do things out of process. I do not know you time line or anything else...so please excuse me if you feel that I am "out-of line"...but I have a procedure when doing Corvettes and this procedure has never failed me. I know that there is more than one way to skin a cat...but I have found...and others may agree...that when any mechanical work is being performed or needing to be performed...it needs to be done before you do the body work. So any penetrating sprays, oils or whatever that may get on the body can be removed. OR do these mechanical repairs after it has been painted...especially if the repairs do not cause for people to lean on the painted surfaces.

Due to your body is stripped and I hope it is completely stripped and no paint remains anywhere. Applying anything on it when it may require body work is kind of a waste of time and money. Because this product may need to be removed so repairs can be made. You wrote "quick" in your post so that is giving me the feeling that you are just wanting to get it protected so you can go to the suspension shop....and gives me the feeling that being "quick" is important. Hard to tell where your thoughts are.

I use gelcoat...but there is nothing "quick" about it at all. I know other's may chime in and give suggestions...but I feel you may be at this stage for a while to get things correct so whatever you apply is time and money well spent.

DUB
Hey DUB,

First, I've got to tell you that your post(s) to me as well as others have been very helpful to myself, and clearly others.

Second, I should have been more clear in my original post. I agree that all mechanical work should be done before the body work. As you surmised however, my need to get something on the bare glass quickly was strictly for the purposes of keeping oil and grime out of the glass while at the chassis shop. The car was clearly prematurely soda blasted, unfortunately as well, past the gel coat. In order to protect the glass from the aforementioned oil and grime, we shot a coat of epoxy primer on the stripped shell before taking it to the chassis shop.

The car is now back at our shop and power plant, driveline and suspension have all been mocked and ready for final assembly which will take place this week. Time for bodywork.

As previously mentioned, the shell is in primer. The rear fenders, front end and hood are new pieces so they will be bonded and primered when the time comes. The issue at hand is how to go about sealing and smoothing the previously primered surfaces.

I was advised and so purchased a gallon of Evercoat Feather Fill. Can I spray this directly over bare glass and/or the primer already in place? What do you recommend using as a guide coat for blocking the Feather Fill? And lastly, what do you suggest I use to fill gaps along the fender seems?

Thanks again for all your assistance.
Joe
Old 09-01-2014, 04:09 PM
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DUB
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Joe,
Knowing that the body was soda blasted.....AS I have read...and come to understand...because I DO NOT soda blast bodies. I do know that cleaning the body to remove the residue of the soda is important....because many paint manufacturers do not warranty paint that has been applied over a panel that was soda blasted....maybe this will change and possibly already has...but seeing how I do not do it (soda blasting parts) I do not keep up with what he or she does or does not do.

BUT...IF the body was not thoroughly cleaned as needed before the epoxy was shot on it.. I would consider removing the epoxy primer and getting back down to raw fiberglass.

I prefer doing all my body work and then applying gelcoat. If you choose to use the Featherfilll...that is you choice. But I would still make sure all body repairs are completed before anything is shot on the body.

As for a filler..I use only Evercoats Vette Panel Adhesive part number 100870 (quart) 100880 (gallon). AS for bonding your new panels on...depending on the time of year and other variables. I can use the same Vette Panel Adhesive...but if I need more time...I use the SMC panel adhesive part number 994.

AS for a guide coat to block the Featherfill...I use the 3M dry guide coat material.

DUB

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