desue

I've got several places on my BLACK 79 where the paint is blistered/bubbled exposing either primer or fiberglass underneath and of course the very common spider-webbing on the bumper and tails.
My questions are - how to touch this up to make it decent looking for the time being?
How far down to sand? What grits to use?
Type of primer?
I've heard of 'gel coat' but not sure what this is, and what research I have done suggests it wasn't used on my car.
What techniques and products to use?
No chemical strippers should be used, right?
Links to info and videos much appreciated!
I plan on using a rattle can paint. I am not expecting this to be perfect, just something to hide the bad areas until I can afford a professional paint job. I just don't want to cause more damage in the process.
Thanks much!

DUB

If you have not done bodywork before...and this is your "maiden voyage"...I would highly advise you the tread lightly...because you can do more damage when it goes in for a good paint job...if you did not do things correctly. I have aided many members who did not know jack-squat...but it was also being done in a manner that was the correct way....and they had obtained the correct tools and environment to do it and took there time. I know you just want a quick fix....and I really do not know how to tell you how to slap some stuff on the car and HOPE that it lasts. What you might have going on in front of you...and what it will take to fix it may not be what you are willing to do...so in my opinion...typing out the correct way is pointless...due to what caused these issues may create problems during the prep...which can grow and grow into a major process.

There is more than likely.... no easy, fast fix on the spider cracks.

DUB

desue

Yes, I am wanting a quick fix to camoflauge the bad places but don't want to do anything to further damage the body. Not all of us can afford 10 grand on a good paint job right now!

tak82

Not knowing if this is the original paint or a repaint or how many layers are actually on the car it's hard to give much advice but I understand your goal. My car has spider webbing but it's from 5 layers of color. You may be able to use some rubbing compound on those areas and it may lighten the spider webbing. Your not going to get them to go away much. As for putting touch up paint in them, I wouldn't try it. Probably won't net the results you want. As for the blisters, dab some paint in them as you would stone chips , sand them with 800 or 1000 wet and use some rubbing compound to get the shine back. There are some Youtube videos on those repairs. About all you can do for now.. I have the same issues but aren't ready for a repaint. Rub the paint out and get it to shine and drive it till you can afford a nice paint job.

desue

Ok, I am listening...if I didn't want advise I would not bother posting and if you didn't want to give advice I don't think you would bother responding. Yes, I do want to do this the 'correct' way. That for me means fixing these spots to protect the glass.
If this helps, most of the bubbles/blisters seem to be in the paint only, not all the way down to the glass. Maybe something got in between the primer and paint that made it blister? My guess is the paint is 15 years old or so. The chips that you can pop up are very thick. I can take a pic if needed. Still has decent shine, but swirl marks are bad. (Black paint is the worst!)
I am highly considering getting it dipped. I know that'll ruffle the feathers of the purists! If I go that route I am still going to make sure all the flaws are taken care of first. And I would not want to plasti-dip on bare fiberglass. Any one who has experience in that please chime in!

Dt86

The problem you are encountering is that you are looking for a quick fix in a forum where the people giving advice are professional corvette restorers. They are not going to be able to help you do that. What they can do is tell you how to do it right. I'm in the same boat as you. My car has blistering and peeling in some spots. And I just want it to look better. But there's no quick, cheap fix when it comes to auto body and paint, especially with corvettes. Tak82 had a good suggestion for trying to improve the looks and that is probably your best bet for what you are trying to do. And that will protect your panels from the environment somewhat. Personally I don't see plasti dipping your car as anything but a waste of money. It is not going to last and that money could have went towards fixing it right.

DUB

I can understand that most people can not throw 10K at a paint job. I get that. But in the same breathe...if a person is wanting a "quick-fix" then if I were to give any advice I would not know where to start...mainly because spider cracks in your urethane bumpers are NOT easily "quick-fixed"...especially if you are counting on advice given here on the forum is going to be that if something that will LAST.

I know you are wanting to protect the exposed body material...but with the paint popping off and being thick...this is another issue entirely...depending if when the paint "pops-off" what does the finish that is now exposed look like? Is it shiny, like it were never scuffed/sanded...or is it dirty...or is there moisture on the surface when the paint flake comes off. And if there is paint under these sections of paint that are popping off...then NO DAMAGE CAN OCCUR..because there is paint still on the body....and then this is more a cosmetic repair which is entirely a different issue if you are wanting it to look like nothing happened at all.

I know you replied and wrote....after my first response..."Yes, I do want to do this the 'correct' way". But in your initial post...you want to use rattle can paint. Which is why I responded the way I did.
Fora professional...it gets my head spinning when rattle can products are going to be used and then it changes to wanting to do it the "correct" way...because these two decisions are completely different.

As I ask many of my customers who want there car painted...."What is it that you want to see when you look at it". Do you want it to look like you dipped it in baby oil?....or factory texture...or what? Once I know what they expect to see...will determine if I do it at all or not. With your car being BLACK...and with the paint that is popping-off is thick...what do you expect it to come out looking like. A repair that looks like it was dipped in baby oil...super slick and shiny...or something else....because it is in the prep and products used that will help in the outcome....and if feathering the thick paint and applying a rattle can primer on it and sanding that smooth and shooting rattle can black paint and getting that sanded and buffed can work....but the longevity and holdout will be suspect...and all of your efforts may only last a few short months (if that)...before you start to notice the repair areas are beginning to surface again.

So...that is why I commented like I did. I would HATE IT FOR YOU that you do all of this work with a repair that does not last...and then comes the saying I use: "WOULDA-COULDA-SHOULDA". I hate wasting MY TIME and YOURS also on a repair that fails.

This repair can turn into what I call a "TEXAS BLEND"....and what I mean by that is that when you start working on a small spot...and begin prepping it...it gets bigger and BIGGER...and BIGGER...and it leads to another panel...that initially was not intended to be touched...but now it HAS TO...and then that leads to the next panel and other problems....and before you know it...what started out like a small job...went all the way around the car and thus the term "TEXAS BLEND". And this can EASILY be the situation for you if when you go and begin prepping the paint edge and the paint keeps lifting/popping off.

DUB

desue

I appreciate everyone's comments.
DUB: can you recommend a good body shop in my area (Western Kentucky)??
I have a horror story to share about some paint/body work I had done a few years ago on my daily driver. I hit a deer and messed up the hood and bumper. My friend's husband is in the business and decided to let him do the work. I decided to have the car painted an entirely different color, something I had wanted to do for a long time. Car looked great at first. Long story short, don't get someone to do work for you just because you are friends with them! The first sign of "this shizzz ain't right" was when the paint on the door jambs started flaking off. Now, over two years later, I have discovered he NAILED the side skirts on! WTF?!?! There is a long list of things wrong with this car. Live and learn, I guess.
I guess I didn't think that spray paint would be that horrible to touch up some spots. I just want to keep the glass protected. Temporary fix.
I think I would enjoy doing body work if I knew what I was doing, obviously, I do not! (That's the purpose of this forum- to learn)
What do you know about soda blasting?
Thanks again!

DUB

Dealing with a shop that would get my recommendation...I do not know of any....sorry.

AS for the previous work done by someone you know...YEP...that can often times be the "kiss of death".

You can use the rattle can if you want. I do not judge people in what they choose to do...but if your have no exposed fibers...then is it still protected...even though it may look unsightly.

I would not soda blast the car...that is my opinion on that...even though other people have. To each his/her own. I have had it done on some small parts and such...and it seemed to be OK...but regardless if you choose to do it or not. The KEY thing is the person who is running the equipment. They can EASILY do more damage than good. Soda blasting a metal car is one thing...doing a fiberglass/SMC/urethane bumpers is something ENTIRELY DIFFERENT!!!!!!! And there can be areas on the car that should not be blasted due to the contours and the vortex of air actually eats into and destroys the body if the person running the machine is trying to remove ALL of the paint in that area...and stays in a spot too long and really screws something up. And the clean up to remove any residue would require water...which is something I also do not believe in...which I ALSO KNOW that many people have washed the bare body in water with Dawn and gave it time to dry out.

I personally prefer using a chemical. And then rinsing/washing the residue off with a solvent like lacquer thinner and then acetone.

AS for you doing the job your self...let me ask you some questions.
1.) Do you have a garage to do it in?
2.) Do you have equipment? i.e.- air compressor, tools, and or are willing to buy what would be needed to do the job.
3.) Are you a patient person?
4.) Do you have the skills of being able to stay focused and ON TRACK when repairing an issue that may arise?
5.) Do you consider yourself to have the ability to employ.."Attention to detail"? This one is critical...REALLY CRITICAL!!!
6.) Do you get easily discouraged? And when you are discouraged...you literally have a hissy-fit and pout like a 2 year old? If so...do not start this project.
7.) Do you consider yourself a "problem-solver".. where problems that come up..you take them in stride and can figure out a method to repair them...even though you know nothing about the paint and body industry...you still can think out of the box and think of something??? Or do you just sit there staring at the problem and "throw in the towel". PROBLEM SOLVING ABILITY IS A MUST. Even if what you thought would be a way to repair your problem.... only to find out that it was not correct...at least you are THINKING. Eventually...you will"get it" ..like many others before you and understand procedures and principles and know how to fix something...much like I do not (or should not) have to tell you the answer to this: 5 x 5=?

ANYONE can do what I do for a living if it what THEY WANT TO DO IT. It is not hard...but it is not easy either...it can become repetitive and wear you down...so having STAMINA for the long haul is important. But that also goes hand-in-hand with the other questions above. I take what I do VERY seriously...but I do not let it consume me to the point that I FREAK OUT. Because the moment that I allow my emotions to override my intellect...I have lost...and I hate to lose.

DUB

540 vette

You want it to look half way decent for not alot of money. I would strip the paint with chemical stripper, that way there is no chance of gouging out the fiberglass. I would repair what I could. You asking about grits means you are going to do the work. After all that is done I would get some black epoxy and paint the car with that for now. It would give a nice matte finish and the car would be protected until you have the money for paint. This method would probably cost you $1000 for stripper, sand paper, and epoxy. You can pick up a small compressor and a cheap spray gun ay Harbor Freight. All it takes is time. Also get some books and go to You Tube. Also search the forum here there are plenty of threads on stripping and body work.




And not all paint jobs are $10000.

desue

Thanks again for the replies. Here's more ?'s/answers.
Garage? Yes, though not very big.
Equipment? Yes, mostly, and yes, willing to buy whats needed.
Patient? I have kids LOL
Staying focused? Mostly, when my A.D.D. isn't acting up....what was I saying?
Attention to detail? I think so, I love to make my cars pretty, I am a woman!
Easily discouraged? Sometimes, then I take a break and come back to it.
Problem solver? Not much of one, that's why I ask folks who do know the answer (like I am asking on here) Most of the time I ask others before attempting something new.
5 x 5 = 25 and I know not to NAIL side skirts on! (that's more common sense, I think he has been painting without a respirator for way to long)

My ?'s:
What kind of chemical stripper? A lot of what I have read says not to use chemicals. Seems to me like that would soak into the fiberglass and cause issues later on (like my blistering spots) And would the thinner and acetone get into the fiberglass also? I don't understand.
Recommended books, videos, etc? I'm sure there are tons out there, but are any better than the other?
Maybe I could take a class at a local vocational/tech school.
The more I think about this, the more I want to try to do it myself. and it would probably cost OVER $10k by the time I get done with it.

DUB

Taking a class at a tech school will HELP...but I would not rely on the information they reach you is the GOSPEL and should be used. I know of the tech school in my town...some of what they "may" teach will get you by...but not the RIGHT WAY. High quality restoration work is NOT the same as a production repairs that are being performed on cars that may be a "throw-away" car in a few years. These tech schools teach people so they are marketable and can be a useful employee...and most of the companies that employ these students of a tech school...are looking for production and speed....and quality is important...but it is NOT PARAMOUNT. Not always...but seems to be the "way it is".

And I seriously doubt that you would have 10K into it...unless you are figuring in the costs of your time into it.

If you choose to do this...one thing I can write that you might want to remember...print off and put on the wall or whatever will make it so you remember. DO ONE THING AT A TIME. So do not look at the WHOLE CAR...which can easily discourage a person....JUST FOCUS on one thing and get it done...then move on.

I have numerous tips and suggestions that can help you...because anyone can tear a car apart...but getting it back together is ENTIRELY a different issue...and I have tips/tricks that can help....and trust me...THEY ARE PROVEN TO WORK.

When you begin...and begin to get the "hang of it"...you will begin to see how to do things on your own...thus "problem solving"... and ask for verification to make sure what you thought was correct when faced with a repair issue.

DUB

desue

DUB: Thanks so much for taking your time with me to help out! Most folks would just say "do a search" (which I have somewhat and it's led to conflicting views of how to go about this).
PLEASE give me all the tips and advice you can! You don't have a write up about this already? You should!
About the stripper, any certain brand? Better place to get it? I figured the auto parts stored like NAPA would carry it in bigger quantities.
Boy, this escalated quickly didn't it?

DUB

Sent you a PM.

DUB