whitestreak3

Hi everybody, I found an 81 Corvette 4 speed Bowling Green car in my area for pretty cheap. It's going to need a repaint. The owner says that the car has the original paint on it. I'm on sort of a tight budget, and was wondering that since its a Bowling Green car (basecoat/clearcoat enamel), if I really will have to take it all the way down to the SMC. I know that the acrylic paints used in St. Louis corvettes will crack and spiderweb if you just scuff and shoot over. Does the basecoat/clearcoat make any difference? If I scuff and shoot over the original basecoat/clearcoat paint on the car will I find spiderweb cracks all over the car years from now? Thanks

540 vette

The car is over 30 years old, if the paint was going to crack it would have done it by now. You also may mot own the car years from now. I would still take the paint off. Southern Polyurethanes sells epoxy primer and 2k primer and they also have a line of clearcoats. They also sell some colors. Their prices are very good and the materials are great. They are all I use now. Depending on the color you paint the car you could probably do it for around $1200 for paint materials. Then sandpaper and buffing supplies will add another $400.

whitestreak3

Thanks 540vette,
Anybody else? If I was going to paint the car without stripping it, would I not have to put primer on since there is already paint on the car? Would I just have to spray on some sealant, then basecoat, then clearcoat? Thanks

540 vette

If the paint on the car now is sound and it is the original paint, you can scuff it and the seal and the paint it base coat/clearcoat. There are tone of wright ups on how to do it on the web and on you tube.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...ct%20paint.htm

DUB

Going over an existing paint is SUBJECTIVE...and I do not know anyone who possesses a crystal ball. You have to know what to look for to know that "just" scuff sanding the paint will work.

If you choose to prep the existing paint and seal it and then shoot your color/clear...that is entirely up to you. Once again...it all depends on the condition of the paint.

Depending on how little prep (dis-mantling) you are planning on putting into it will also effect the paint job outcome. So if scuffing it, masking everything off and shooting it...is what you are planning...I will have to "sign-off" on this post because I deal with enough crappy /improperly prepped Corvettes on a yearly basis.

So much needs to be done to make sure that the job comes out OK...and I am not writing that it is going to turn out like a "show car". PREP is PREP....and if steps in the prep are by-passed...the outcome and longevity lessens with each and every step that is by-passed...or the chances that future problems will arise increase.

There is a saying in my business: "There is ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME to do a job a SECOND TIME...but NEVER enough time to do the JOB RIGHT the FIRST TIME".

DUB

whitestreak3

Thanks DUB, that is a very good point, especially since I plan on keeping it for a while. What pieces would be the most beneficial to take off? I'm thinking hood and both bumpers for sure, anything else? I just need a driver quality job

whitestreak3

After doing more careful examination of the VIN, it looks like the car I'm looking to buy is a St. Louis car. Does this make any difference it I wanted to "scuff and shoot" since it is a lacquer paint? Or will it spiderweb crack no matter what?

540 vette

I don't think it will matter if it was lacquer. You would just seal it and put your color and clear on. If you are worried about it cracking take the original paint off.
At this point in the cars life it may not even be the original paint. If you plan on keeping it for awhile then do the job right and take the paint off, that will cut down on your worrying about it cracking later on.

whitestreak3

Thanks 540vette

Dave Tracy

Having been using PPG products on my project, some of the epoxy primers have a warning the spraying over lacquer can cause lifting. If it is original paint, it will likely be thin and relatively easy to strip vs. multiple layers. If you are going to spend the time(which is low $), you would likely come out ahead by stripping it thereby minimizing a redo. My $.02.

DUB

I REMOVE all parts that contact paint.....PERIOD!

Door handles and lock cylinders....upper door trim and felt seal....Upper T-top mounts in the top of the "B" pillar....the rear vertical weatherstrip[ and replace with new LATEX ones....fuel door bezel....rock panels....rear window trim....antenna bezel.....outside mirrors.....fender vents.....side marker lights (all four of them)....emblems.....obvious taillights, headlight bezels...lower valance panel and extensions ( comes off with front bumper).

I know you want a "driver"...but DOES NOT mean that you should sacrifice on doing it right...because with it being a "driver" it is going to be subjected to more environmental issues than a garage queen...and if you cut-corners...they can come back and HAUNT you faster than a Corvette that barely leaves the garage...and many of these areas that can fail; due to improper prep and time SPENT are VISIBLE...and IF they fail and paint begins to flake, bubble, peel, craze, crack....TRUST ME....I KNOW you will not want to get back into it again and repair it because the time to CORRECT these issues CORRECTLY.......GREATLY exceeds the time it WOULD HAVE taken you to do it correctly the first time.

It all depends on what you expect. 5-footer...50 footer or something else. Because you can not expect it to be a really nice job if you plan on not putting the time and effort into making sure that it will end up NICE.

I would SERIOUSLY look really hard and check inconspicuous spots to VERIFY that the car has NOT been painted on over the original factory job...because if it has been painted on...chances are really high that it was done incorrectly (prep-wise) and you can have a problem. AND...YEAH...I have heard it time and time again. "WELL...if it has lasted this long and no problems are showing up...it should be fine to scuff on". And I reply..."It is up to you...and if I DO NOT strip it down...I WILL NOT be held liable nor warranty my work if failure due to previously applied products left on the car...regardless if they are factory applied or not". This applies to old Corvettes and not the new Corvettes due to paint procedures and materials are much better and I have no problem going over a new Corvette if needed.

Obviously...the choice is yours.

DUB

scyzoryk23

was on the same boat 2 years ago when I got my 81 vette. it needed paint and I was going to get a cheap daily driver paint job.
I wanted to mask everything over and just paint over old paint.
Then I decided to scuff the paint, seal and paint. When I did that A LOT of problems showed up (old paint lifting, cracking, minor cracks in the body near front bumpers). So I decided to strip all the paint.
I used chemical striping method (Capitan Lee stripper). It worked great but even more cracks showed up. I remove all trim, lights mirrors etc) and decided to repair the cracks with epoxy and mat and VPA (recommended by DUB).
After few weeks I decided to get new fiberglass bumpers because old ones weren't that good. More work I did more flaws I found.
I decided that I will fix all the problems my self spray primer on it and get somebody else to put base/clear.
Few days ago I primed it with SPI epoxy and after all said and done I am really happy how my vette looks right now. Still have to put polyester primer and sand but body is 95% straight already.
If you really want to keep your car for more than 5 years I would suggest to do it right.
I have about 200 work hours in my car right now and about $1000 in supplies. When I started I had ZERO experience in body work now I have some (big thanks to DUB).
If you do 'so so' job on your prep trust me you wont be satisfied and every time you look at your vette you will regret not doing it the proper way.
S.
Ps.DUB...thanks again!!!

whitestreak3

Thanks everybody for the help, I think I'm just going to do it right and strip the the car. I've been researching and I think I might go the chemical stripping route, probably with Captn Lee's Spra Strip, unless anybody recommends another brand. Once I get through the color off, I think I'll get through the primer and down to the SMC by using acetone and scotchbrite. What do you all think? Once I strip it, is there a certain amount of time I need to get the sealant/primer on by so that the open SMC doesn't react with anything? Thanks

Dt86

Glad to hear you're going to take the time and do it the right way. You'll be much happier in the end. And let's face it, it's a vette not a ford escort. It deserves it. Personally I don't like the chemical strippers. On metal no biggie but I'd worry about it leeching into my panel somewhere. Plus by sanding down you already are that much closer to having straight panels and won't have to block sand as much later. Just my $.02. Either way keep us posted.

DUB

There is no certain amount of time to get anything on the raw/bare SMC. The main things is that your working environment needs to be "worthy"...and NOT outside...and not in a shop when they are spraying different aerosol products. Many of the Corvettes I work on will be in the body stage for months and bare fiberglass/SMC.

If you plan of replacing the urethane bumpers with fiberglass ones. If it were me..I (myself) would buy the RIGID fiberglass bumpers and NOT the "flex-glass" style. And if you need help on knowing how to get them to fit and look great...I know how to do that also...and will be willing to help you in that also. JUST BE WILLING to spend some time on bumpers to get them to fit like 2 "LEGO'S".

DUB

DUB

Thanks for all the kind comments....and as you know...if you need any help or have concerns and do not know which way to turn when faced with a dilemma...just let us know...and it will be resolved so when you are done...you have a job that is correct and will last.

For those who "wonder" if they can do their own Corvette....here is proof. YOU CAN.... BUT...the YOU have to WANT to do it...because it is NO PICNIC....but it can be a PICNIC if you make it FUN and learning experience....it is all about ATTITUDE.

DUB

whitestreak3

Thanks DUB, I'll send you a PM when the time gets closer to paint. What special, more aggressive chemical stripper are you referring to? Also, when I'm done stripping the car, what goes on first? A sealant or an epoxy primer or both? Thanks everybody

zwede

The first thing after you get the car "naked" is a careful examination of the issues you've found. Yes, there will be issues. Next step is to decide how far you want to take it. Panel gaps, for instance. Factory gaps were wide and often uneven. You want those perfect 3/16", even, gaps? How about leveling the panels to where the side of the car looks like a solid block with a door line cut into it? What about all the edges like top of the fenders and the beauty lines? Ok with the factory rounded look, or you want to spice them up and sharpen them up a bit? Doing these things will make the car look like a million bux, but it's all hours.

ibflyer

If it is any encouragement to you, I am completing a home grown paint job with no prior body work/paint experience. I will try and include a photo of part of the work. It has been an education, to say the least, and much has been gleaned from the pros like DUB on the forum.

Dt86

Looks like it's coming along nicely! DUB is the man!