right way to paint a C5
03-30-2014, 06:29 PM
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right way to paint a C5
I was in a light accident but none the less it required a new hood, fenders and front cover. Was in the shop the other day having the entire car sprayed and the painter and owner were discussing the best way to paint this car meaning fenders and bumper cover off car or everything on the car. He gave me his reasons and I have to leave it the hands of the people doing it , there removing the parts. Is that the right way? He told me he talked to shops that specialize in these cars and they disassemble before painting.
03-30-2014, 07:30 PM
#2
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I was in a light accident but none the less it required a new hood, fenders and front cover. Was in the shop the other day having the entire car sprayed and the painter and owner were discussing the best way to paint this car meaning fenders and bumper cover off car or everything on the car. He gave me his reasons and I have to leave it the hands of the people doing it , there removing the parts. Is that the right way? He told me he talked to shops that specialize in these cars and they disassemble before painting.
Solid colors are easier than metallic / pearl colors. Becasue not having the fender by the door to get a good match/blend can be a bit "tricky"...but that also depends on the skill level/experience of the painter. I can blend the door WITHOUT the fender by it...even though I just contradicted what I wrote above...but I am experienced and make that determination at the when I can see what I am up against. Each car is different..so there is NO set method if the fender needs to be set up in place to blow color to get the color correct or not.
But...not knocking the shop that is working on your car...just because the panels are off....hopefully the painter takes special attention to make sure all edges/pockets/flanges are covered in clear well...instead of having the edges/pockets and flanges be all dry-sprayed because they were to lazy to position the gun to apply clear so it is slick and wet looking just like the factory had done. Most errors in clearing that produce "dry-spray" is because the painter was not watching the clear go on and was just waving the gun across the panel and hoping for the best and know that most people do not know what to look for in the hard to get areas...because most people are in a HURRY and are just glad to get their car back. They never get down and feel the bottom of the fender or actually LOOK at it...along with the underside of the front bumper. I have seen Corvettes that were so rough...that if you ran raw cotton across it...it would leave cotton behind. Wheel housing edges also...dry and NO shine.
DUB
03-31-2014, 02:20 PM
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Thanks. He was actually getting more money from Hagerty due to like you said everything has to be assembled then disassembled two or three times. I know the first time he assembled it with new inner wells got all marks made took apart again to only glue in inner wells fenders back on and hours of adjustments. Now to all come off again. The guy is a perfectionist. I sneak in there and I see him laying in angles to check all fitments of parts. It's actually better then factory. I trust this guy painting as a matter a fact I was in the other day he just painted a Ferrari red 57' chevy and I rubbed it and commented how smooth it was no peel and I said nice sanding job and he looked at me and said this wasn't sanded yet.
03-31-2014, 02:44 PM
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By the way Dub, ever hear of Maytrx. That is what the shop uses. He was a PPG water borne shop for awhile and switched years ago to this and his opinion is it sprays better, covers better, and the clear is far superior. The funny thing another shop who gave me a estimate whom is actually a corvette restorer shop sprays only Spies hecker and they say there is nothing else. But $12k for paint alone vs. $ 9k with Hagerty insurance not willing to spend the difference I went with him but also through recommendations and seeing cars.
03-31-2014, 05:56 PM
#5
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I have heard and used both Matrix and Spies Hecker.
I have my own views on paint and I feel that NEXA is where it is at...so...you are going to get this regardless who you talk to. the main thing is each of "us" have found a paint line and mastered it and like it...and thus..."we" become opinionated when asked what to use.
AS I wrote in another post....many of these new...unknown paint line that "pop-up"...are started by chemists that worked for the bigger companies. I am not writing that Matrix is new or unknown...but at one time....many, many, many years ago...I had a Matrix rep stop by to introduce the product line. It is good paint ..and if your painter/shop know how to make it work...I would not worry at all.
DUB
I have my own views on paint and I feel that NEXA is where it is at...so...you are going to get this regardless who you talk to. the main thing is each of "us" have found a paint line and mastered it and like it...and thus..."we" become opinionated when asked what to use.
AS I wrote in another post....many of these new...unknown paint line that "pop-up"...are started by chemists that worked for the bigger companies. I am not writing that Matrix is new or unknown...but at one time....many, many, many years ago...I had a Matrix rep stop by to introduce the product line. It is good paint ..and if your painter/shop know how to make it work...I would not worry at all.
DUB