Prep for primer and paint.
03-18-2014, 10:20 AM
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I am finally done with body work on my 81 vette. Now my surface is mostly bare smc, some bare fiberglass (structural repairs) and Vette Panel Adhesive here and there. Everything is sanded with 80 grit paper.
Here is my plan
-spray 2 wet coats of SPI epoxy primer (grey) to seal everything.
-spray 2 wet coats of slick slick (grey) sand to make all panels flat
-block sand it with 180 grit and if necessary put another coat of slick sand
- block/guide coat slick sand with 320 than 400 grit
-spray one coat of SPI epoxy primer (grey) and one light reduced coat SPI epoxy primer and wet sand everything with 600 grit to prepare for base/clear.
Base/clear will be done by professional body shop. Paint color will be C6 LeMans blue or Viper blue metallic.
I already called SPI and Evercoat and they said that epoxy and slick sand will work well together.
I just want to double check with you guys if my procedure is correct. If I missed any steps or should use different paper grits.
Thanks.
Here is my plan
-spray 2 wet coats of SPI epoxy primer (grey) to seal everything.
-spray 2 wet coats of slick slick (grey) sand to make all panels flat
-block sand it with 180 grit and if necessary put another coat of slick sand
- block/guide coat slick sand with 320 than 400 grit
-spray one coat of SPI epoxy primer (grey) and one light reduced coat SPI epoxy primer and wet sand everything with 600 grit to prepare for base/clear.
Base/clear will be done by professional body shop. Paint color will be C6 LeMans blue or Viper blue metallic.
I already called SPI and Evercoat and they said that epoxy and slick sand will work well together.
I just want to double check with you guys if my procedure is correct. If I missed any steps or should use different paper grits.
Thanks.
Last edited by scyzoryk23; 03-18-2014 at 10:42 AM.
03-18-2014, 01:49 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
For what it is worth I was told to sand mine with 120 grit before SPI Epoxy primer 80 grit for steel bodies. Hopefully some of the pros will chime in. 
03-18-2014, 06:34 PM
#3
Race Director
I am finally done with body work on my 81 vette. Now my surface is mostly bare smc, some bare fiberglass (structural repairs) and Vette Panel Adhesive here and there. Everything is sanded with 80 grit paper.
I do not use SPI products...but I am sure that "porchdog" or SPI can verify if 80 grit is OK. I myself feel that it is a bit rough. I usually go to,m 180 grit on what I use and I have NEVER had any adhesion issues.
Here is my plan
-spray 2 wet coats of SPI epoxy primer (grey) to seal everything.
Seems good to me but check first. You might have a problem is you have exposed fiberglass repairs that were laminated and not covered in a thin coat of VPA. The SMC will be fine...but laminated fiberglass is something entirely different. You can have super fine pinholes that you can not see until you coat it with something...and then they show up.
-spray 2 wet coats of slick slick (grey) sand to make all panels flat
I (personally)would go in and apply 3 coats myself. Because it is highly possible that unless you do not apply it EVENLY very well in 2 coats...when you go in and block it so you can apply more...you can easily have sand-through's.
-block sand it with 180 grit and if necessary put another coat of slick sand
YES
- block/guide coat slick sand with 320 than 400 grit
I go in with 400 grit "wet".
-spray one coat of SPI epoxy primer (grey) and one light reduced coat SPI epoxy primer and wet sand everything with 600 grit to prepare for base/clear.
Once again..verify that 400 grit is good for the SPI product for adhesion. 600 grit for final prep is also depending on how hard the SPI epoxy gets when cured....and what SPI or "porchdog" feel is a good grit.
Base/clear will be done by professional body shop. Paint color will be C6 LeMans blue or Viper blue metallic.
Verify through the shop that is going to paint it if the grit that you plan on using works with their system. I do not sand to 600 grit in my system....I can...but I do not have to go that fine of grit....it all depends if it is a spot repair or an all-over.
I already called SPI and Evercoat and they said that epoxy and slick sand will work well together.
SMART...thinking ahead.
I just want to double check with you guys if my procedure is correct. If I missed any steps or should use different paper grits.
Thanks.
I do not use SPI products...but I am sure that "porchdog" or SPI can verify if 80 grit is OK. I myself feel that it is a bit rough. I usually go to,m 180 grit on what I use and I have NEVER had any adhesion issues.
Here is my plan
-spray 2 wet coats of SPI epoxy primer (grey) to seal everything.
Seems good to me but check first. You might have a problem is you have exposed fiberglass repairs that were laminated and not covered in a thin coat of VPA. The SMC will be fine...but laminated fiberglass is something entirely different. You can have super fine pinholes that you can not see until you coat it with something...and then they show up.
-spray 2 wet coats of slick slick (grey) sand to make all panels flat
I (personally)would go in and apply 3 coats myself. Because it is highly possible that unless you do not apply it EVENLY very well in 2 coats...when you go in and block it so you can apply more...you can easily have sand-through's.
-block sand it with 180 grit and if necessary put another coat of slick sand
YES
- block/guide coat slick sand with 320 than 400 grit
I go in with 400 grit "wet".
-spray one coat of SPI epoxy primer (grey) and one light reduced coat SPI epoxy primer and wet sand everything with 600 grit to prepare for base/clear.
Once again..verify that 400 grit is good for the SPI product for adhesion. 600 grit for final prep is also depending on how hard the SPI epoxy gets when cured....and what SPI or "porchdog" feel is a good grit.
Base/clear will be done by professional body shop. Paint color will be C6 LeMans blue or Viper blue metallic.
Verify through the shop that is going to paint it if the grit that you plan on using works with their system. I do not sand to 600 grit in my system....I can...but I do not have to go that fine of grit....it all depends if it is a spot repair or an all-over.
I already called SPI and Evercoat and they said that epoxy and slick sand will work well together.
SMART...thinking ahead.
I just want to double check with you guys if my procedure is correct. If I missed any steps or should use different paper grits.
Thanks.
I personally prefer that I do all final sanding...because honestly...most people do not do it right and they will expect the paint job being perfect...but yet it was theirpoor sanding techniques and attention to the really fine details that makes the job turn out like a novice did it....which I am NOT a novice.
If you plan on doing all the prep...one bit of advice...if you are using the 3M dry guide coat powder...on a light grey surface....and doing it outside (shade)....BE CAREFUL...you will SWEAR that you have it prefect...but when it is put into a room with fluorescent lights...and wiped down with wax and grease remover and dried...the lights can show issues in the surface that will not be able to be easily seen when outside. All final checks are done in my booth when I do it....then the booth is cleaned thoroughly...so the car can be brought in and the masking process started.
DUB
03-22-2014, 02:34 PM
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On more question. I got brand new l88 hood. Its gel coated white right now.
Hood is very straight just few minor scraches.
What should be the prep process? I was planing to :
Sand with 100 grit
Spray epoxy primer on it
Block sand it with 180-320
Spray reduced epoxy to seal.
Wet Sand it with 400 or 600
S.
Hood is very straight just few minor scraches.
What should be the prep process? I was planing to :
Sand with 100 grit
Spray epoxy primer on it
Block sand it with 180-320
Spray reduced epoxy to seal.
Wet Sand it with 400 or 600
S.
03-22-2014, 06:06 PM
#6
Race Director
On more question. I got brand new l88 hood. Its gel coated white right now.
Hood is very straight just few minor scraches.
What should be the prep process? I was planing to :
Sand with 100 grit
Spray epoxy primer on it
Block sand it with 180-320
Spray reduced epoxy to seal.
Wet Sand it with 400 or 600
S.
Hood is very straight just few minor scraches.
What should be the prep process? I was planing to :
Sand with 100 grit
Spray epoxy primer on it
Block sand it with 180-320
Spray reduced epoxy to seal.
Wet Sand it with 400 or 600
S.
On parts that are straight...like you have mentioned...I have prepped than with 320 DRY and shot my sealer on it and painted it...due to my sealer is a "WET-ON WET" sealer...so I can either paint on it within the time allowed ...or let it dry and then sand it and then paint it.
If 100 grit is an acceptable grit to use in your system...the go with what is allowed and forget anything I wrote.
DUB
03-26-2014, 01:49 PM
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I visited few body shops and got different quotes (from $1000 to $4000) from different people.
One shop that I liked told me that if I will bring them my vette ready for paint (primed and sanded with 400 paper, all moldings/lights/trim removed) they can base, clear coat it, and then, wet sand, polish, and glaze the entire car for $2000 and it will take them about a week to to it.
I will be installing all trim/lights/mirrors my self.
They use PPG deltron system for the base color Viper Blue Pearl coat and PPG concept 2002 clear.
Is this a good deal? and is PPG deltron good system for our cars?
S.
One shop that I liked told me that if I will bring them my vette ready for paint (primed and sanded with 400 paper, all moldings/lights/trim removed) they can base, clear coat it, and then, wet sand, polish, and glaze the entire car for $2000 and it will take them about a week to to it.
I will be installing all trim/lights/mirrors my self.
They use PPG deltron system for the base color Viper Blue Pearl coat and PPG concept 2002 clear.
Is this a good deal? and is PPG deltron good system for our cars?
S.
03-26-2014, 05:49 PM
#8
Race Director
I visited few body shops and got different quotes (from $1000 to $4000) from different people.
One shop that I liked told me that if I will bring them my vette ready for paint (primed and sanded with 400 paper, all moldings/lights/trim removed) they can base, clear coat it, and then, wet sand, polish, and glaze the entire car for $2000 and it will take them about a week to to it.
I will be installing all trim/lights/mirrors my self.
They use PPG deltron system for the base color Viper Blue Pearl coat and PPG concept 2002 clear.
Is this a good deal? and is PPG deltron good system for our cars?
S.
One shop that I liked told me that if I will bring them my vette ready for paint (primed and sanded with 400 paper, all moldings/lights/trim removed) they can base, clear coat it, and then, wet sand, polish, and glaze the entire car for $2000 and it will take them about a week to to it.
I will be installing all trim/lights/mirrors my self.
They use PPG deltron system for the base color Viper Blue Pearl coat and PPG concept 2002 clear.
Is this a good deal? and is PPG deltron good system for our cars?
S.
ALSO...if the shop is NOT going to do ANY SANDING PREP on the car...you need to make sure it is right. Now I know that they will mask it off and wipe it down with wax and grease remover (or at least should)...and paint and clear it...wet sand and buff/polish/glaze it...seems like a good price. A lot of the time is going to be in wet sanding it and how well they are going to do that step. Because if you do not have bumpers bolted on. The flanges can be painted and cleared...and then the bumper set up near the flanges so the color can be applied to match and blend....then taken away for clearing.
I know from experience the logistics of setting up all the parts in the booth so I can paint them CORRECTLY does take a bit of time. I can spend a good day (easily) in getting "things" set-up and the car masked off...because I also paint the door jambs and the doors are off so they can be painted and then installed temporarily so I can get the outside to blend and match and then the doors come off again so I can clear coat everything. So..inside my booth I have numerous eyelets in the ceiling along the sides....so I can hang and move parts around when doing different year models. The hood is the same way...off-on-off...
The price sounds good...but depends on what you have agreed to in the end result....and if you are buying the materials or if that is included in the price....which does change things quite a bit on the time factor of what they will actually spend on the car.
DUB
03-26-2014, 08:04 PM
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Front/rear bumpers are all glassed in smooth with the body. Vette has glass t-tops so no need to paint those 
I have to deliver my car to the shop with final coat of epoxy sealer sanded to 800 grit.
Shop will be put paint on the body and door jambs. Cowl/underside of the hood wont be painted. Everything will be cut/buffed by them. They also supply all materials.
I will have to put whole car together (lights, mirrors, all trim, door locks etc etc). Trim was already painted by me with epoxy primer and SEM trim black paint.
S.
I have to deliver my car to the shop with final coat of epoxy sealer sanded to 800 grit.
Shop will be put paint on the body and door jambs. Cowl/underside of the hood wont be painted. Everything will be cut/buffed by them. They also supply all materials.
I will have to put whole car together (lights, mirrors, all trim, door locks etc etc). Trim was already painted by me with epoxy primer and SEM trim black paint.
S.
Keep this in mind...depending on what the going shop hourly rate is...take it and divide it into the $2000...and that will give you the number of hours they are figuring on.
ALSO...if the shop is NOT going to do ANY SANDING PREP on the car...you need to make sure it is right. Now I know that they will mask it off and wipe it down with wax and grease remover (or at least should)...and paint and clear it...wet sand and buff/polish/glaze it...seems like a good price. A lot of the time is going to be in wet sanding it and how well they are going to do that step. Because if you do not have bumpers bolted on. The flanges can be painted and cleared...and then the bumper set up near the flanges so the color can be applied to match and blend....then taken away for clearing.
I know from experience the logistics of setting up all the parts in the booth so I can paint them CORRECTLY does take a bit of time. I can spend a good day (easily) in getting "things" set-up and the car masked off...because I also paint the door jambs and the doors are off so they can be painted and then installed temporarily so I can get the outside to blend and match and then the doors come off again so I can clear coat everything. So..inside my booth I have numerous eyelets in the ceiling along the sides....so I can hang and move parts around when doing different year models. The hood is the same way...off-on-off...
The price sounds good...but depends on what you have agreed to in the end result....and if you are buying the materials or if that is included in the price....which does change things quite a bit on the time factor of what they will actually spend on the car.
DUB
ALSO...if the shop is NOT going to do ANY SANDING PREP on the car...you need to make sure it is right. Now I know that they will mask it off and wipe it down with wax and grease remover (or at least should)...and paint and clear it...wet sand and buff/polish/glaze it...seems like a good price. A lot of the time is going to be in wet sanding it and how well they are going to do that step. Because if you do not have bumpers bolted on. The flanges can be painted and cleared...and then the bumper set up near the flanges so the color can be applied to match and blend....then taken away for clearing.
I know from experience the logistics of setting up all the parts in the booth so I can paint them CORRECTLY does take a bit of time. I can spend a good day (easily) in getting "things" set-up and the car masked off...because I also paint the door jambs and the doors are off so they can be painted and then installed temporarily so I can get the outside to blend and match and then the doors come off again so I can clear coat everything. So..inside my booth I have numerous eyelets in the ceiling along the sides....so I can hang and move parts around when doing different year models. The hood is the same way...off-on-off...
The price sounds good...but depends on what you have agreed to in the end result....and if you are buying the materials or if that is included in the price....which does change things quite a bit on the time factor of what they will actually spend on the car.
DUB