AirborneSilva

Hey guys, my windshield header molding is not seating all the way against the windshield, as you can see in the picture you can easily get a paint stick under it, how do I get it to seat properly? This is a 76 if that makes any difference, Thanks!

rogman16

AS--



From what I've read, when you have a new windshield (which I don't know if yours is new or orig), you want the installer to dry fit it, install the windshield moldings to ensure how deep or how high the bead needs to be...

I'm lurking because I want to hear what the pros say... I plan on getting my new windshield installed when I go back to Vegas in Apr/May14... SO I'd like to know the best method as well...

Rogman

AirborneSilva

Thanks Rogman, not knowing the history of the car it could be a replacement. What your saying does make sense since I've heard the new/er replacements are thinner glass.

DUB

IF you do not have the LOF logo etched into the windshield on the lower right corner of your windshield and it reads something else...then the windshield has been replaced and was NOT installed correctly.

When I have the windshields installed at my shop for the 68-82 year models. It does take some time to get the set-up correctly so when the trim goes on it is correct and the upper corners of the windshield do not drop down and look like crap. I am SUPER PICKY because I see so many that are wrong that I can not add to this problem.

The thinner glass mean nothing...it ALL has to do with it being set-up correctly....and hopefully the glass tech will TAKE THE TIME to do this correctly. My glass guys KNOW me and know that they need to bring in urethane that gives them more working time to get it set...before it begins to set-up.

FOR what it is worth:

I stock the correct trim clips so that is not big deal for me...but you might want to get some JUST IN CASE when the glass comes out and the clips are broken you are not cussing at yourself. I also remove or lift up the large trim that the T-tops seal against. This is so I can see if water is getting into it and either it needs to be removed and replaced or if I need to pump it full of sealer to make sure no water gets under this trim.

MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!

If you have your windshield out and have issues with your windows not fitting correctly...or that you can not adjust them at all...like I have experienced. NOW is the time to tweak the windshield frame to get that angle for the glass correct again and then install your windshield....failure to do so is your own fault. This is mainly dealing with coupes. Your rear vertical "B" pillar is the gauge. If your glass is parallel with it and then the angle at the front is off a lot. Then look at how the glass fits along the horizontal area on your T-top weatherstrip...and if it OK....then you have 2 out of 3 angles covered...which means that windshield post is off. Stop and look at it and see what would need to happen to correct the way your door glass fits against the pillar weatherstrip(s). If the windshield is NOT original...and the car has been hit before...do not be surprised that you might have this problem. This is also assuming that all body mount bushing are in good shape.

DUB

AirborneSilva

Thank you DUB!

Looking at the glass it does not have the etched logo in it, it says sunshade and PPG, along with some other stuff...

You've given me a lot to think about, thanks - no I really mean it, thank you!

My door glass is not adjusted properly, I got it close then got frustrated and said to heck with it for now. After doing some more reading on the topic I went and bought the glass suction cups and was going to have my wife help me with it (she's been bugging me to help on the vette anyway). I will see if I can get the side windows adjusted before I worry too much about the windshield.

I've been debating replacing the windshield anyway since it has a couple of minor scratches in it along with some over spray from the crappy paint job it has on it.

Thanks again

DUB

You are getting ready to get into an area that has ...or can have problems due to age and other influences....this being the window adjustment.

AS I wrote above...the 2 given angles for your window adjustment are the rear vertical "B" pillar area (back edge of door glass)...and the top edge that contact your t-top weatherstrips. when those are correct...then the windshield pillar will let you know if you have a problem or not.

PLEASE keep in mind...that there are 2 rollers that are a part of the window assembly...a front roller and a rear roller. These 2 rollers are CRITICAL...VERY CRITICAL. IF there is the slightest amount of "in and out" play in them.,.they are SHOT and need to be replaced. NO QUESTIONS!!!

This can be easily determined when the door glass is all the way UP.
If you can tilt the door glass in and out and actually see the roller at the rear move between the horizontal track and the rear vertical track...it is shot. Then you can look down and see the front roller that is actually attached to the door glass...and if it moves...it is shot.

It all has to do with the "angles of the dangles" as I put it. When the door glass is all the way UP...it is about 18 inches from these 2 rollers. So a little bit of movement in them can equate to a lot of movement at the top edge of your door glass due to the location of the fulcrum. then when you take intoa ccount teh felt adjusters and the outer window sealing strip and the door panel and teh type of weatherstrip...you can run into a case of major frustration trying to get the door glass to cooperate and work as you want...but it might have a mind of its own.

Just thought I would pass this along because I do glass adjustments a lot and I know right off what I need to do to get it so when the door glass is all the way UP...it is tight and has very little to no in and out play....and this can not always be achieved by jamming the felt adjust against the glass....which leads me to another subject...which is why I like the latex pillar weatherstrips and rear vertical ones for a 78-82. When the weatherstrips are denser than what GM designed or intended for them to have...when the door is being shut against a denser weatherstrip..if can begin to effect these rollers...because ti is pushing out away from this dense weatherstrip...instead of molding into the latex weatherstrip which is soft like a marshmallow......the latex is much softer and will actually allow the window to be able to be rolled up when the door is shut....often times the aftermarket weatherstrips fail in this area and it is a balancing act to adjust things to make it so the glass will work and still seal as intended.

DUB

AirborneSilva

Hi DUB, as luck would have it (or not in my case), I did just "try" and adjust the window on the passenger side today, yeah I'm very frustrated!!!

It's kinda like you were saying, I get the glass even with the A and B pillars then the top against the T top is off, it's tight against the T top in the back and has a gap as you move to the A pillar.

It is probably what you were talking about the rollers being worn out as this car has a minimum of 102 K miles on it (the odometer no longer works), so that is probably assisting with my frustrations.

Man I wish you were a lot closer, I'd gladly pay for your help!

DUB

The 2 given angles for your window adjustment are the rear vertical "B" pillar area (back edge of door glass)...and the top edge that contacts your t-top weatherstrips. when those are correct...then the windshield pillar will let you know if you have a problem or not.

Adjusting the "A" and "B" pillars is not how I do it. Get the back edge of the door glass parallel with the "B" pillar and then get the glass level with the weatherstrip at the t-top...and THEN the "A" pillar will show itself really quick.....such as really tight at the bottom of the glass and a wide gap at the top of the "A" pillar where it meets with the t-top....or vice-versa.

IN SOME CASES...I am forced to get the "A" pillar and the glass to be even and the top edge of the glass where it meets the t-top...and leave the "B" pillar be what it is...just as long as the door glass is not hitting the "B" pillar area when it is up and closing the door.

The worn out rollers...unless they are really worn out...usually effect how the glass will ride onto the weatherstrips when it is going UP...of possibly allow the glass to hit the body when you are trying to close the door when the glass is UP and the window is tilting inwards due to the roller being badly worn out. Regardless...if they are worn...replace them. If one is bad and the other is good...I replace both...they do not cost that much.

You can PM me and I can give you my phone number and I will be glad to talk you through anything that you might have a problem with ....if you can not figure it out easily on your own. Gosh...I hate to write this...but I literally can do these doors/windows in my sleep...I have done countless.

DUB

AirborneSilva

DUB, let me say thank you for taking the time to help me out and to give me in dept instructions, you are giving me a much clearer picture of what I need to do, that's not to say I'm not a bit confused and intimidated to do this job, was hoping to put it off or even get lucky and it would be ok for a while, at least until I was ready to change the scratched glass but it's looking like this is going to be moving to the head of my project list. So, I've looked up a kit from Willcox is this what I will need?

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=17007

Will I need anything else to take care of this job?

I'll tell ya I was hoping to put this off until I was able to get my tranny swap done but that's looking like it will be a couple months down the road since Keisler took all my money the went bankrupt. I have a bit over half the money I need to order the kit from someone else so I'm just waiting on the cash pool to build up and Liberty gears to get their act together and start producing the TKO 600 for our C3's. In the meantime this doesn't sound like an expensive job, well realitivley speaking that is.

I hope all that made sense and again I REALLY thank you for taking the time to walk me through this. I guess the worst that can happen is if I get everything then can't get it right then it would have to be the windshield right and that can be tweaked?

I played around with it when I got home from work - seemd like a good way to forget the BS I deal with at work, I think I got it a bit closer then where it needs to be but you can feel that things are worn and sloppy, even with everythiing tightend down I can still grab the window and move it a bit.

THanks again, I really appreciate your time and knowledge!

Tony

DUB

Tony...if you need any help on pulling the door glass...let me know or you can call me if you like. It is a pain but not that bad. I would highly advise removing the front and rear vertical tracks and thoroughly cleaning them of old grease and crud. Re-lubricate then lightly and then you will be ready to go from there.

DUB

AirborneSilva

thanks DUB, I'm going to order kits for both windows today. I hope that cures my problem and that I don't have to mess with the windshield frame. If I get stuck and need help I'll be sure to ask, I have heard these side windows can be a real pain

Thanks again, I appreciate your time and help!

AirborneSilva

DUB, that kit to rebuild the door glass tracks and what not will be here Monday, do you have any tips, hints and or ticks to getting things apart? I was looking at it yesterday after work and man - where to even start! Thanks...

DUB

I will PM you.

DUB

AirborneSilva

Thanks DUB