b1buddy

As the title says, I have an 82 Collectors Edition. Recently bought all new interior when Willcox had their sale. You know, new leather seat covers on the foam, new carpet, new weatherstrip, and already had new door panels.

Plan is to pull everything out before starting on the paint.

Am an old fart now!!! Back something around 25 years ago was the last car I painted. Back in those days I only painted Acrylic Enamel with the catalyst in it. Before I stopped painting, I painted one base coat/clear coat and it was not all that good mostly because I didn't know what I doing and have learned a good bit since then.

Based on my research here, the 82 came with acrylic enamel, so at the beginning that sounded pretty good to me. But, after A LOT of reading on the forum and a few other sites, the Color/Clear sure seems to have a lot going for it.

Now for the question - All the decals on the car are in good condition except the one on the hood. Therefore, I was thinking of masking all of the decals, paint the color, pull the decal masking and cover everything with clear to make it smooth.

Back when I painted, the local guys would put on the enamel color and then put on three coats of clear. First clear coat is pretty light. Second coat is medium. And the third and final coat is mixed about 50/50 reducer and shot from about 16-18" - pretty much as a fog. When done that way, it sure did shine with pretty much no more effort.

So, knowing that my painting history is Acrylic Enamel and knowing what I "think" I want to do, what recommendations do you have and if you would, explain why you say what you say.

1. Should it be painted with Acrylic Enamel or Base Coat/Clear coat?
2. Do you think leaving the decals and masking them as I described will work?
3. Of course, I know the ultimate is to pull the decals off, paint it and put new decals back on, but those suckers are expensive? But, if this is really the only real option, how the heck do you get decals that big off without damaging the fiberglass? And, of course I could airbrush the decals back, but it would never be the same, just close.

And of course, ask me questions if I left something out.
Thanks,
Buddy

markids77

The chances that your car is eligible for a "scuff and shoot" respray are nearly zero. If the paint is original it is almost certainly full of stone chips, small cracks, shrinkage crazing etc. If a respray it should probably be stripped before you shoot it again to avoid the problems associated with excess film thickness. My opinion is that you will not be happy with the result of your effort and expense unless you do the job thoroughly the first time.

b1buddy

That is exactly why I was asking the questions. It is original paint. pretty much all the body is faded somewhat. No body work as far as cracks and such. As best as I can tell, a mild sanding and cleaning and it would be ready. If there are chips I cannot see them. Need to do a good 'feel' job around to be sure though.

I guess I just hate to spend the $1400 to buy the decals to make it 'right'. It will not be a collectible just simply due to its 117k miles and not been a garage car much of it's life before me. But, I just like the CE design and look and would like to keep that for ME to look at!!! Hahahaha! LOL, and all those other icons!!!

I am just a sucker for the shape of the 82 and this color scheme.
Thanks for your reply.

DUB

Buddy,

Not knowing if you know or not: But it is for others who may not know this.

If you plan on just sanding/prepping the paint (but still leaving it on the car) and applying a coat or two to get an even color and then clearing it...you can and more than likely will have "ghost stripes" in the paint. This is due to the decals that were on the car. To stop this...I usually remove the paint entirely and take that issue out of the equation...instead of priming over the areas that had decals...which adds more paint film on the car. I prefer to have the least amount of film thickness if at all possible.

If you are stuck on what you know (acrylic enamel)...I would re-think that idea. If you want it acrylic enamel...that is fine...like I am writing...it is your choice...but if you plan on applying clear over the decals to cover the edge and make it slick...I would not do that in acrylic enamel. Mainly due to paint film thickness. A couple coats of color...and then the clear...which is on top of the factory paint...if not a paint job that may be on that...is too much paint...especially on the urethane bumpers. I honestly do not know if I would clear over the decals at all..

I do not have a problem clearing over pinstripes....due to they are so thin/narrow. But your door and hood decals are rather large and have a lot of surface area...and I would not take the chance and trust that the clear could actually eat into the vinyl and bond and never delaminate off of it. I would have to talk to my paint tech guys and have a "brain-storm session" before I would pull the trigger on that one....in my opinion. Especially if this car was going to be in the environment all the time and not garaged....which also can be dangerous if the garage is not a good garage.

BY no means am I writing that you can not do this...and with your past history in the field...painting is like riding a bike....once you KNOW HOW...you never forget. The only issue is that you will have to employ some new techniques so the paint job will go on flawlessly. I have shot acrylic enamel...and as you already know...BC/CC is not the same ...AT ALL. In my opinion...it is much easier.

I will write this. Plan on removing everything...door handles, lock cylinders, door glass...in order to remove side mirrors, outer window sealing strips and trim, antenna bezel, front and rear bumper covers, rocker panels, headlight bezels, and the obvious taillights, marker lights, lower valance panel and the rear T-Top mount in the "B" pillar.. Masking off this stuff will make it a piece of crap( in my opinion) and a waste of time...especially on a car like that. Leaving the bumpers on or even loosened a bit (so the paint will not bridge) makes it where you can not get the flange prepped correctly...and a problem can result due to trying to cut corners.

I have had many guys who have painted their own car or had someone paint their Corvette and bring it by for me to look at and I can see instantly "issues" due to poor prep and improper procedures employed. There is very little to no room for short cuts if you want it RIGHT. So...the level of excellence you want is entirely up to you. Mainly because there have been many forum members who have taken short cuts in doing "things" ONLY to find out they screwed themselves.....because they did not take the time to do what was needed (after proper advice was given) and they felt that they could "re-invent the wheel". I get many PM's weekly...and some of them start the PM with "HELP...I messed up".

I know you have done painting before...but I also know that in the production world of automotive paint and body work is based by crash guide times and the tech trying to beat the "book time" and make $$$. So poor and bad habits occur because they are not worried about it coming back...because in most cases...they know they are going to move to another shop....or figure it is going to get hit again and need re-painting anyway. This is NOT the case with your car...if you are doing it...in my opinion.

So if you fall under the above description...trying to "get-it-done" quickly...I honestly wish you the best...and you are on your own. I can not...nor will not give advice to allow you to do FAST and CHEAP. The fast and cheap way is not my way...and my way is doing it ONCE...and making it be a paint job that is AWESOME.

As I wrote above...it is up to you. So it all depends on where your "head" is on this subject. Because if the cost of the decals is making you twitch...that is nothing compared to the material costs for good products being used and put on the car.

DUB

b1buddy

Well, Dub, You told me what I had feared I would hear. Except, I had not thought about the decals potentially lifting! Oversight! And, that would be a pitiful thing for me!!!!

And as you pointed out, I have planned to pull EVERYTHING off and out! Also as you pointed out, I already learned that short cuts of not removing what can be removed takes WAY too much time afterwards cleaning it up or making it look "better". So, that part I am already committed to.

The big issue for me was which paint and the decals. Our old tractor is one of those 'red' ones and needs some fresh paint. So if the answer was to do the Base/clear, then I plan to use it for practice before starting on the CE. So, I guess the old tractor is going to get a new paint job soon!!!! LOL!!!

Thanks loads for your input! I have read here enough that I fully respect your opinion.

In addition, I plan to take plenty of before, during and after photos and 'one day' will post here, even if it turns out like crap. Folks like me learn from seeing how others do things!

As I mentioned, I do not need or want a finish that cost 10-20k to get it done. But, I do want one that I would not be ashamed for the local car guys to see it up close.

Thanks again!

It will be base/clear and pull decals!!! Crap!!!!

DUB

Might I add.

Painting your tractor in a solid color is one thing. It will help you understand the paint....depending on whose paint you can get and use...I have my favorite...along with many others here on the forum. Trust me...the paint I use I love and it is often times hard to get in some areas of the country and is a bit pricey...but it often times is so highly pigmented...it actually takes less paint to paint a car...because it covers quicker. 90+% of the all-overs I do take about 2 quarts and a pint to paint eh entire car...jambs ad all....and I still have some left over.

BUT...if you remember painting...that champagne color your car is is a ROYAL PAIN. Making sure that the metallic's are even and not streaking is all in the procedure I would shoot my paint. This is where you would want to test and shoot something to verify you have the gun set correctly ad the choice of reducer is correct, etc. Going from a solid color to this metallic champagne is a quantum leap.

Your paint job won't cost you 10-20K....no where close...but at least be open minded to spending some money on paint for practicing to get yourself comfortable....which is still cheaper than paying someone like me to do it.

DUB

b1buddy

Well, for an old fart like me, there is more to it than the money! I am retired and could afford to pay someone, but I do not want to. There is a great deal of satisfaction in doing things like this yourself. Even if I screw it up and have to do it over. Of course it would tick me off and I would be disappointed, but when it is done, there is a big sense of pride and self satisfaction that "I did that".

Your point on paint - I have not started investigating what is around this part of the country, but heck, I am about an hour and 20 minutes from Dallas so surely, there would be someone there with good stuff. What paint brand do you recommend? Maybe your top two or three, just in case there are not that many choices locally. When I did the enamel, it was always DuPont, and it was always good then. And even way back then that stuff was expensive.

And, of course, I am doing an "all over"- door jambs - everything! Otherwise, am spending a lot of time pulling everything off and only going part way there!!!! Plus, I plan to clean and paint under the front and rear bumpers for long term care more than appearance.

Tractor - Heck, I don't mind painting that sucker the same color. Ironically, my Kawasaki motorcycle is almost exactly the same color, as is my Dodge Ram, and my wife's Lexus!! So, I would figure, "what the heck", might as well make 'em all the same!!! Plus, I do not like red on my vehicle anyway. Plus, on the tractor, I don't care if the masking on it is very good or not. It is going to keep getting the heck beat of it anyway. Just don't want the thing to rust up.

PS - I sure do appreciate all your comments. Helps me feel better about my plans. Speaking of Plans - I like to have a detailed plan. It may not always go exactly, but at least I have thought about what and how, and then if something should hit the ditch, I may have even made a backup plan for that. That is a carry-over from my working days!!!

DUB

For what it is worth:

I use NEXA...which usually sold where PPG is sold. I used to use PPG, but when ICI AUTOCOLOR (now NEXA) came to the states...My jobber switched and so did I due to having a mixing machine in the shop. Once I got the NEXA "dialed-in"...I have never regretted it at all and when I have to shoot PPG...it reminds me why I am glad I shoot what I do.

You do not have to use what I use. I just know what I like and how well it works versus so many other paints that I have shot. You can go water-base and shoot it ...But it does take special air driers to dry it...which are nothing more than fans. Water-base is awesome and works very well and it will be just a matter of time when it is nation-wide. You about can not mess that stuff of...I know...I have tried in training classes....seriously awesome paint. NEXA calls it "Aquabase" (who actually designed it and had it out on the market first)....PPG has there brand and it is called "Enviro-base".
Basically the same stuff because PPG bought the rights to sell ICI AUTOCOLOR products in North America...under the NEXA brand name. That is how PPG got the technology.....from ICI. This is what I was told by some of the guys I know high up in the industry.

Have you ever painted a house with latex paint and got some on a brick and it dried....and then tried to get it off the brick. Well water-base is like that. Once the water-base has gone dull and flashed...you can literally tape right on it and NOT leave a tape track. I abused the stuff In that training class and I was sold. Just something to think about. Car manufacturers are using it....and it is NOTHING to be afraid of at all.

As for your tractor. It will help...but what you are wanting to shoot is large flat surfaces so you can get the metallics dispersed correctly...much like the surface area of your Corvette. Maybe if the tractor has big flat fenders or side engine cover panels would work.

DUB