DONR

I have a 66 big block hood that I bought that needs some repair. Need some suggestions on the repair. The underside bracing back rib is cracked on the right side and on that same side at the latch area it has been broken and repaired. It almost looks like the hood might have slammed shut, but the right side latch was closed, therefore cracking the right rear hood.
My questions:
1) Can I grind the rib down about 3 or 4 inches from the crack and reglass it. Should I try and rivet a metal strap along the rib to reinforce it then glass over.
2) The right rear side of the hood has some bowing in it. It runs about 8" from the tip. The underside brace as well as the top skin of the hood is bowed up. Should I grind the underside brace down and build it back up to level out and do the same to the top skin of the hood.
I have done a few small fiberglass repair over the years, but this seems to be be more critical since the alignment and strength of that area is critical.
Thanks in advance for any advice from the experts.

Don

DUB

Need GOOD photos. Using a straight edge to show the "bow", etc. Descriptions of damage in this situation do no good.

You may need to separate the hood ( outer skin and under structure)to repair it correctly and get it strong again. I have done many that way to get them back right...but often times the cost is easily over half the cost of buying new one.

DUB

DONR

I bought the hood real cheap. I also have lots of time. I will get some pictures taken soon as I get back in town this weekend. I appreciate your response. Dub you seem to be the resident bodywork expert.

Thanks!
Don

DUB

Post photo's when you can.

DUB

DONR

Here are a few pictures of the places that need repair.

persuader

If I may just make a suggestion. If buying a new hood is not a consideration here (which is what I would do) than what I might suggest in the way I would approach that repair is by separating the repair areas from the skin and place a piece of wax paper underneath and do a single lamination on the outside just to sort of tack weld the parts together and then separate the inner structure from the outer. Then do all your repairs on the inside of the frame first cause that is where all your strength will be. Just make sure that the frame and hood mate up perfectly without having to apply to much pressure that can cause the hood to misalign and look uneven. Once you are done with the repairs on the inside of the frame do the outside of the frame.
No matter how you decide to fix that hood it will be a lot of work and time to do it properly. Just my .02. I will now go now and mind my bidness

DONR

Persuader, I appreciate your comments. I only paid $300 for the hood. I do want to try and repair the hood best as possible. I will see if I can seperate the frame from the skin and do some inside repair. I picked up #994 Evercoat Panel Adhesive and #870 for Adhesive and filler. That seem to be the favorite products on something like this. I will aslo use fiberglass cloth and resin.
If I am unable to get it repaired good I will make wall art out of it.

DUB

Great way of doing it "persuader". Definitely a good option.

My .02 cents worth.

That crack on the inner structure is a major issue...so I would in some way...get it together to hold the correct shape if possible, I would bond paint sticks to the outside to hold its position and when it is almost done...grind them off.


The hood needs to be separated...and using heat would work well...and you have to get it hot...like with a good burning kerosene heater. if you are concerned that the un-burnt kerosene will get into your open fibers of your hood fiberglass. Carefully cover it with aluminum foil. Heat the heck out of it and you will slowly be able to get a wedge between the two parts and get them to separate. A heat gun can be used but it will take some time. Do a test spot and you will see how hot you have to get it to get the adhesive spongy and soft.

The 994 and 870 can be used for bonding it back together...I would use the 994 due to more work time...which is also depending on how hot/warm the panels area and the adhesive is at that time. 870 works well and will give you sometime if it is cold...but in the summer it hardens much faster. ALWAYS do a test on your mix to see how much time you have BEFORE you mix the stuff and slap it on ....only to find that it hardened BEFORE you got it all clamped together. So PAYING CAREFUL ATTENTION to how much volume of adhesive you put on your mixing board....and the amount of hardener used to achieve the color when mixed is also to your best advantage. Being consistent in your mixes is also wise...instead of just putting whatever you feel like in a mix and having the colors when mixed being far off from one another.

DO all lamination's on the inside of your structure and you can use both the mat and the cloth and resin....the cloth will give you very good linear strength.

This will take some time to get it right...the thickness of the adhesive between the panels will also be critical....so your clamping methods and fixture will be detailed...and you want to make sure that you do not squish out all of you adhesive when being bonded.

When using the 994...FOLLOW the instructions and do NOT try to "re-invent the wheel" by applying your own thoughts and change the method of how it has to be applied and sit PRIOR to clamping.

DUB

DONR

Dub,

Thanks for the additional info. I will give it a try. Hopefully I can get the frame and skin separated. Will keep you all posted.

DONR

I used a little hand held propane torch to heat up the under side bracing. It worked great. Like Dub said once the panel gets pretty warn the skin and lower bracing comes right apart when you wedge them apart. I am in the process of adding mat and resin on the underside of the bracing where the break is.
Will get it bonded back together in a few days.
Thanks for the help so for.

Don

DUB

GREAT...BUT...before you get to the point of re-bonding the two panels again...please let it be known. There is a "trick" that can aid you in the controlling the bonding adhesive gap issue.

DUB

DONR

Dub,

I would appreciate your advice about bonding the skin and bracing together. I have repaired the bracing and cleaned both surfaces well so I think I am close to needing to bond the 2 surfaces together.

Thanks!
Don

DUB

Sent you a PM...if does not make sense...let me know.

DUB

DONR

I thought I would give an update on my big block hood repair. All of the help from this forum, especially Dub, has been a big help. I have repaired the bracing that was cracked. I have also bonded the outside skin to the bracing. Boy I just barely had enough clamps. I think I used about 20.
I have another question though. I am thinking that I am going to have to repair some of the edges of the hood. Should I used fiberglass or bonding adhesive. I jst need to true up most of the edges, but one area I made need to add about an 1/8" on the edge.

Thanks!
Don

DUB

You can use the VPA (Vette Panel Adhesive)...and if you are going out 1/8"...you will want to taper the underside and topside a little to give if more area to grip onto...versus just laying the VPA on the edge itself.

DUB

DONR

Thanks for the help Dub!

DONR

Dub,

I got the hood skin and underside bracing bonded together. All went well. I only have one problem. I did not do a fit test on the car before bonding it togther.The back of the hood in the middle is too low. That means the hood is bowed somewhat. The question now is do I make it wall art or attemp to get the seams to line up. The back outside corners of the fit pretty well. In the center of the hood at the back it drops down about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Is there a way to heat the hood up to get it to flex. I put a spacer at the back of the hood in the middle and put about 50lbs. of weight on the outside back edges. When I did that it fits pretty good. Could I heat the hood up by the back of the bulge on the hood to get it to reshape while weighted down?

Don

DUB

YES...you can apply heat and give it a try. I would. You will need to get it HOT. and you have to remember that you are not only trying to heat up the exterior skin of the hood...but the under structure also...if possible...which may require the hood to be removed and heated up really good and then installed and then the weight applied on it....and possibly re-apply the heat source again.

IF you have a piece of factory press-molded fiberglass...try it out on it and see what kinda heat it will take to move the fiberglass. I have a section off an old front end that is really tweaked..and did not break...or damage the fiberglass' integrity. If you do not have a piece of old fiberglass...then get it hot...let it set with the weight on it...and KEEP AN EYE on the hood...because it can possibly go further than you might want when it does heat up and begin to move....then remove the heat and let it cool...and see how that comes out.

I am truly sorry to read that you did not do a fit test.

DUB

DONR

Thanks for the advise Dub. I owe you a lunch. Next time I get over to Charlotte I would like to buy you lunch.
I was so focused on getting the outside lines along the fender/hood matched up I did not think about it being bowed from the middle.
I will try heat process.

Thanks!
Don

DONR

Thanks for the advise Dub. I owe you a lunch. Next time I get over to Charlotte I would like to buy you lunch.
I was so focused on getting the outside lines along the fender/hood matched up I did not think about it being bowed from the middle.
I will try heat process.

Thanks!
Don