Glassing do's - don'ts

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

11-27-2013, 09:07 AM

#21

YellowC5Alive

Heel & Toe

Member Since: Sep 2013

Posts: 23

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Good info in this thread...

Reply Like

11-27-2013, 12:36 PM

#22

MSGT-R

Pro

Member Since: Oct 2013

Location: Denver CO

Posts: 560

Likes: 307

Received 85 Likes on 65 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by DUB

factory hood will be slick on the underside of the hood skin. If it is a hand laid part. The surface will be rough ( in most cases).

Also...the rivets that hold the pieces to the under structure...IF FACTORY will NOT be pop rivets....and they are actually aluminum solid rivets that have been bucked (squashed).

DUB

Wait a minute.. rivets?
There we no rivets on this hood (should there have been?)

Reply Like

11-27-2013, 05:48 PM

#23

DUB

Race Director

Member Since: Apr 2009

Location: Charlotte NC

Posts: 19,294

Likes: 465

Received 2,713 Likes on 2,321 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSGT-R

Wait a minute.. rivets?
There we no rivets on this hood (should there have been?)

YES>>> The factory style solid aluminum rivets secure the metal plates to the underside of the inner structure. These anchor plates give your bolts something to thread in to. You should have a plate for each hood hinge. One for the pop rod and there should be one for each hood latch on each side....along with one in the rear center for securing the under hood cable.

These rivets should NOT be "pop" rivets...and the heads should be flat like a dime but a bit thinner for the hood hinge plates. And if my memory serves me correctly...the rivets for the hood latches are a slightly domed rivet. I am having a brain fart on the one that holds the hood prop rod mount plate. I believe they are flat also but slightly less in diameter than the ones for the hood hinge area. I think the cable strap point is like the ones for the hood latches, I would know if they were right if I saw it...but for the life of me...after the day I had today....all I want to do it get through it.

DUB

Reply Like

11-28-2013, 10:36 AM

#24

MSGT-R

Pro

Member Since: Oct 2013

Location: Denver CO

Posts: 560

Likes: 307

Received 85 Likes on 65 Posts

Sorry for a difficult day.. that's what Miller Time is for!

One more question (and thanks for putting up with all of us).. so I will find NO rivets countersunk through the hood skin and glassed over?

Reply Like

11-28-2013, 04:25 PM

#25

DUB

Race Director

Member Since: Apr 2009

Location: Charlotte NC

Posts: 19,294

Likes: 465

Received 2,713 Likes on 2,321 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSGT-R

Correct.

If this is a factory hood. The under structure (once removed from the outer hood panel)...will allow you to clearly see these metal plates and reinforcements. SO...they WILL NOT be glassed over or glassed into the underside of the under structure.

IF the underside of the hood panel is rough...or the inside of the under structure is rough...then this is a hand laid part. Factory panels where press molded and basically slick on both sides.

WARNING:
I seriously doubt that your hood was made out of SMC, If the hood on the underside is very slick...and the inside of the under structure is slick and has a light gray color with some dark gray streaks in it...then it is SMC...and will require using the 994 ONLY.

DUB

Reply Like