pcguy2u

Well I knew it would happen sooner or later - my 09 ZR1 got bumped somewhere. The photo below (RR bumper) attempts to show the four damaged areas, but my guess is that the whole area is f***d.

The only two things that shows is the scuff in the upper left of the right circle and there is another smaller section just below that outside the circle.

The ellipse in the center has parallel paint cracks that are parallel to the leading edge of the bumper – these are only visible in bright sunlight and I was not able to capture them in a photo.

In the left circle, the damage is clearly the deepest, but there is no dent anywhere.

All the evident damage shows paint cracks.

Before I attempt to get this fixed, I need some sound input from all you knowledgeable gentlemen.

Is this repairable for the long term?

What are the odds that the paint (Blade Silver) will match or not match?

If the existing bumper is repaired, would you remove it or would it be best to remove it to inspect the underside before deciding?

Knowing that there is just that very small section at the end of the spoiler just above the damage where a blend could end, would you try to repair and blend without removing?

Would you replace the bumper and have it painted off the car and then replace the bumper with the new one?

Anyone have a need for a rear bumper?

TIA

S'vette

Hard to tell by the pics but this may be buffed out if it didnt get to the paint and was only the clear coat

pcguy2u

Already tried the bufffing and the rubbing compound, you should have seen this when it first happened - it was a mess. The cracks in the paint are all the way down to the base (whatever it's made of today?).

Making it better is only going to happen with paint - I just want to make sure I don't get some bad directions from a paint shop estimator.

Also, looking for a recommendation for paint/repair in the North Bay.

BT ZR1

To be honest, it is hard to get perspective from your picture but any competent body shop can deal with this. if the bumper needs to come off then so be it. Blade silver is not an especially difficult colour to match up. Good luck

DUB

Depending on how "good" your eyes are. ....in regards to color matching and any difference in shade. You car right now may be so that the bumper covers are NOT EXACTLY the same color as the rest of the rear clip panels. The bumper covers are not shot at the same time as the rest of the panels so there can be a slight difference when looking it at different angles and types of light. With that written....this silver is like most silvers...a ROYAL PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE. Regardless on how new or old it is...silver is one of those colors that can do some funny things when it is applied. TRUST ME...I do this for a living and KNOW what I am talking about...even though there may be people out there who get "lucky" and get the color right on the first attempt....and that all depends if they have an "eye for color" and even know what to look for when it is completed.

I do agree that the cover should be removed...or at least pulled back far enough so the flanges of the bumper can be prepped and cleared. And unless a test panel is shot and cleared....and CHECKED. The chances of the color NOT MATCHING where the bumper bolts to the body is EXTREMELY HIGH. I do not give a "rat's behind" if the shop you choose uses one of those machines that can provide a color formula... because those machines are only good for "blending" and NOT butt-matching a color....and it also depends on how many angles the machine uses to derive a formula.

SO chances are...the rear area of the car MAY need to be blended...due to the damage on your bumper cover is right at the mounting flange....or at least one spot is...I would blend into the adjacent panel to make sure when you picked up your car...you could not see a blend. BUT...and this is a BIG BUT...it also depends on how well your bumper cover paint matches the rear clip currently. If the cover is far off now...than it would be pointless to blend into the adjacent panel(s). Often times these covers (when silver) are slightly yellower...or seem to put off a yellow cast...versus the test of the body. Sometimes they are darker on the angle. It all depends.

"DUB"

S'vette

I had my last cars front bumper repainted a couple of times on my 370Z. Nissans paint is infamous for its soft paint. Since the colors are known and can be purchased by the color number sonewhere written or etched into the car, matching really wont be a problem. My 370Zs front bumper came out matching perfectly and the newly painted section was harder and better than before. I would just get it painted and be done with it.

TCW

Pretty much a 99% chance that it will not match.

Tom

DUB

Regardless of the paint code. There is NO POSSIBLE way in knowing for sure...that if you mix up the prime formula for the color code...that it will match the car in question. It is KNOWN FACT...by experienced painters... that there are "variants" to darn near each color out on the market. This is due to the factory can not exactly paint each color for that car the same. Because often times the color is shot during different times throughout the model year...and it is IMPOSSIBLE to get each batch of color perfect to the last. I WISH it were... because it would make my job a lot easier. I REALLY HOPE that his bumper comes out PERFECT...but the odds are stacked against it. And as for matching it....it can take some serious hours or even days on some colors.

"DUB"

DUB

100%

"DUB"

DUB

The photo does not show the damage (spider cracks)...and for what it is worth...I would NOT replace it....from what I can see in the photo This would DEFINITELY require blending into the rear clip if replaced.

IF repaired CORRECTLY...the repair will last a very long time.

"DUB"

S'vette

This is true but I was giving my experience with having a bumper repainted and the fact that it matched so well the human eye couldnt tell, especially if just looking at the car as a whole. Like you or someone else said, even the bumpers are not painted at the same time as the rest of the car so its likely they dont match 100% anyway. I wouldnt think twice about getting it repainted.

DUB

I am glad to read that your bumper turned out that well. It has happened for me from time to time (1 in 50)...but more times than not. The color will always need some tinting or the adjacent panels blended into so the color can not be detected that it is off a bit....if the customer is that concerned about it....and/or willing to cover the added expense. I know in your case, it can occur PERFECT the first time shot...but it is a gamble. And what color was your 370Z's bumper???? That "somewhat" makes a difference.

"DUB"

pcguy2u

ttt

Kenny94945

Silver is a difficult color to match....live and learn.

Definitely (definitely) remove the bumper from the car if you do any repair paint work.

If insurance, get a new bumper as opposed to stripping the OEM bumper down to primer.

Either new or current bumper way, you need to start the repair with a bumper stripped of all its paint. Watch the paint mil thickness (maybe measure a before and after).

Do not forget dimished value.

Ideally only bring the bumper to the body shop.

Again, a "butt" match will be difficult (though not impossible) so the shop may need the rest of the car to blend into adjacent panels. Try to avoid a blend.

Checking the color match at night in the lights of a 7-11 store parking lot can show how well the current and repaired color match is.

Do not forget if you qualify for a like kind rental car reimbursement.

I can not say whether to not repair it ......it is a street car subject to chips and scrapes.....
add a bumper sticker, pinstripe, mural, matte black paint. Your photos did not show the damage very well (to my eyes anyway).

Best of luck to you in your decision.

pcguy2u

Let me get that straight??? Do you mean that the entire bumper needs to be stripped to the primer before repaint (that is if the entire bumper is going to be repainted), or do you mean that just the effected area with the rest of the bumper being sanded through the clear???

Thanks for all the input............

DUB

The entire bumper does not need to be stripped. Your car is so new...and the painting process is such a good one in regards to paint adhesion. Stripping it down would be time consuming and no benefit at all. And that is coming from someone who does this type of work often.

Depending on the hair line crack that you can see....which is being amplified by the clearcoat. This crack is in the clearcoat for sure...and if carefully hand sanded down...you will be able to get to the bottom of it and still not break through the factory primer that is on the urethane.

Just worry about the damaged area(s). BUT it would be wise to prep the entire bumper for a re-clearing of it. "Spotting-in" the clear would be a big mistake and would show up. There are no good break point on this bumper to "hide" the end of the clear. So it would be best to at least apply two coats of clear over the blended area...and one GOOD coat on the entire bumper. This will depend in the environment of the booth and if it is know to allow trash to get on parts painted. If it is...then you might want to apply two coats of clear on the bumper so it can be sanded and buffed out when done. Just be careful that you do not apply too much clear... because the clear can change the color...and throw it off and make it so it may become darker where it is bolted to your rear clip.... because the added depth of the color due to the clear being thicker.

"DUB"

corvetteronw

I am going to paint my 91 coupe in my garage after it warms up here in W Michigan. I am in the process of gathering supplies.
The paint it thin, sun faded and chalking/peeling at the nose and tail. I am keeping it the same color and not removing anything other than the nose and tail emblems. I have buffed out as much as I could but am still not happy with how it looks.
I have only painted a body panel or two in the past. I did learn to never paint outside towards dusk The bugs just LOVED that fresh shiny black paint on the C3 hood!
I have watched a few You Tube videos and read through "How to Paint Your Car on a Budget" by Pat Ganahl.
My wife is predicting a disaster and saying I should take it to the local body shop. Of course this is now a challenge and I gots ta do it!
Here are the steps I am taking. Please let me know if I need to add or take anything away.

1. Wash with Dawn and use degreaser/prep.
2. Fix a couple of small rock chips with SMC body putty.
3. Dry block sand by hand.
4. Cleanup and mask.
5. Spray primer.
6. Dry sand again.
7. Wash and cleanup.
8. Spray with adhesion promoter.
9. Spray base.
10. Spray clear.
11. Color sand.
12. Buff.

The color is Steel Blue Metallic and I am using Deltron with all the paint supplies purchased from a local jobber.
I do not have an air compressor that is capable of HVLP volume so I am going to use a Craftsman gravity feed gun that I found on Craigslist. The seller showed me his 79 Cutlass that he had painted with that gun and it looked nice.
I am currently looking for a used compressor that will maintain 7.0 SCFM at 40 psi as that is what the Sears on-line catalog says this gun requires. My current 5 hp, 20 gal compressor only puts out 5.1 at that pressure.
Thanks for any and all advice.
Here are before pics. Hope the after pics look better and prove the wifey wrong!

DUB

You might want to "re-think" ONLY removing the emblems. Failure to remove others parts can often times result in poor prep work... translating to the paint not sticking....thus "popping off" in time. These parts are taillight housings, license plate and back-up light housings. side marker light housings, outside mirrors and outer upper window seals and at least detaching the rear bumper cover so you do not run into the clear "bridging" the gap between the body and the bumper....and would allow you to prep the flanges. The rear weatherstrip (at the back of the door glass that runs across the top of the car and down the other side) is also a point of concern. CAREFUL prep and masking must be performed IF you do not take the time to remove this weatherstrip and channel track. Once again...it will all depend on the level of quality you expect when completed. THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR PROPER PREP.

With your limited "trigger" experience...all I can advise is that you PRACTICE with the gun you have or plan to get WITH the products you plan on using. This is so when it comes time to do the paint job...you are not trying to figure out what is wrong...if "something" happens when you go to apply the paint/clear. Solid colors are much different that a metallic color...regardless on how many times you want an instruction video.

Without you taking this advice...or at least considering it...I might say that your wife may be correct....or at least re-working "things" that come back and haunt you later.


1. Wash with Dawn and use degreaser/prep.
I am good with this
2. Fix a couple of small rock chips with SMC body putty.
I am good with this...as long as proper prep is preformed
3. Dry block sand by hand.
In the condition of what I see in your photo's...I would concentrate on the areas that you plan on priming. And not worry about all the other panels. Use 320 grit to finish with and just make sure that your primer stays within then prepped sanded area of 320 grit. This is so you are not priming on UN-SANDED PAINT....which makes it another issue
4. Cleanup and mask.
I am good with this
5. Spray primer.
No need to prime the entire car. Only prime those areas that have had the clear removed, repaired and/or are questionable.
6. Dry sand again.
Wet-sand with 500 grit...then go over it with a grey scotch-brite....until all areas that are to be painted are DULL.
7. Wash and cleanup.
I am good with this
8. Spray with adhesion promoter.
There are transparent SEALERS that allow you to add a small percentage of the actual color to them...so when you seal it...you are somewhat getting to to the color you want. If not...use a light grey sealer...and not an adhesion promoter. Adhesion promoters and sealers are two totally different products. But do as you wish
9. Spray base.
10. Spray clear.
11. Color sand.
12. Buff.[/QUOTE]

"DUB"

pcguy2u

Just want to say thanks to all who provided referrals for getting the ZR1’s rear bumper painted. Called/visited all referrals and when all was said and done, the place that seemed the most reasonable and the most inclined to do it the recommended way was a place in Valley Ford (Calif). Coast Auto Body, Mike Soares on 707-876-9400 – he came highly recommended.


Bumper was removed, affected area was repaired/sanded/primed/painted/blended and the entire bumper, with badges removed was prepped and re-cleared – which is the way it was recommended by some folks in this thread. BTW, no blending into the quarters.


BTW, the job turned out fantastic and his fee was half the high bidder (some wouldn’t take the job) – paint matched exactly and I couldn’t be more happy. BTW, he used to do paint for the local Ferrari dealer (I guess that means Northern Californina based on Ferrari's sales rules).