Planning on repainting my car soon (original Laguna Blue '66 vert - will be body-on repaint) and I see various schools of thought about the best way to prep the body to ensure I eliminate the possibility of paint lift, bubbling, etc. I do not have any issues with either now but do have lacquer checking. Below are some specific questions I have about this process. Would appreciate any facts about this you may have - thanks!
1. Gel coat or 2-part primer? Not sure of any body damage other than a small portion of driver quarter panel (can slightly see repair). Gel coat sounds like it's the best insurance against paint lift but people on this forum have mixed opinions. Why doesn't everyone just use that vs a 2-part primer?
Also, what brand primer would you recommend and is there a specific product name/code I should look for?
2. Sand or strip? Not sure I can afford the extra $ for chemical stripping and many seem to prefer sanding. Any known problems with sanding I should be aware of?
3. Headlights - probably obvious these should be removed, but any problems if not? Also, should the outside side of the headlight covers (the edge that only shows when the covers are up) be painted or was this just oversprayed from the factory?
4. Finally - should the convertible top be removed from the car (it's white) or is this typically left installed and covered/masked off?
Sorry if the questions are a bit naive! I know proper prep is critical to ending up with a quality paint job and I just want to be informed so I can discuss critical subjects with the painter. Thanks again.
If the panels are virgin, meaning someone hasn't heavily sanded them in the past, I'd say use a regular primer. Gel coating has its uses. It can strengthen a weakened (over sanded) panel, or give a good foundation after major body mods such as flares. But for a stock body in good condition, primer is what you want.
As for the age old debate on chem strip vs sanding, I'm firmly in the chem strip corner. I've seen too many vettes ruined by sanding. It's so easy to go too far and cut into the fiberglass ruining the lines.
Media blast is a good option also as long as the blaster has experience with fiberglass.
Body on frame is OK, but do consider removal of everything else which will come off the tub before you start removing paint. It is an enormous amount of work stripping a car whether you use a sander or chemicals... yes BTW, you NEED to remove all the original finish before putting anything back. So as not to screw up any trim, glass or reuseable rubber components all that stuff should come off as well. Yes, this includes the headlights, insignia, bumpers, glass and doors. And the top, door handles and door locks... etc.
Refinish product choices are made by each painter, and depend on their mentor's methods, years of personal experience as well as following new trends and products in the industry. Gel coat works but is difficult to sand. Catalyzed primers come in different "flavors" and all have their proponents and detractors... Consult a local craftsman whose work you admire and choose the system with the most positives for you. This will include the entire refinish component menu; from sandpaper to clearcoat. All components used in a repaint need equal consideration as to their effectiveness and compatibility to get a lasting job.
also remember, if you do gel coat, you can only do so over the bare fiber glass. you cant put it over paint.
like said above, your painter will have a preference as to what he uses. its best to find a painter that you like, not find a painter to use what you want. he will be more comfortable and knowledgeable if he uses what he knows
I am in the process of a repaint on my '64. I have stripped the paint with stripper. I used gelcoat from Ecklers. This was followed by ppg DP40 epoxy primer and K36 build coats. If I were to do it over again, I would skip the gelcoat. The epoxy primer, apparently, is an excellent sealer of fiberglass. I found the gelcoat very difficult to clean up after it was sprayed on. My $.02.