Questions for Dub or any other expert

[crossed]

Just called out Dub in particular because i see you post a lot. I usually stick to the C3 forum, but I have a question for you, Dub, since you seem to know what you're talking about, and everyone seems to listen to you Around here everyone seems partial to House of Kolor for their own cars that they care about. For body shop/everyday car work they'll just use some Nassan or other cheaper production paint/clears, but not for a real good job. This is just stuff I pick up around talking to people in the cruise ins and around. Whats your opinion of HOK? I used it on a motorcycle, and HOK clear takes more work to finish in color sanding it out and such because it has such a high solids content, but it came out pretty much perfect. Nassan came out pretty nice without any color sanding at all, but from what I hear thats because of the low solids content and as so will not hold up long term to UV rays and such. I do have to say, I have been very impressed with the HoK Kandies and clears and so Im leaning that way for my vette when the time for paint comes. Im 30 and have only painted 4 cars in my life. The last one was about in about 2001, and they were all painted with a suction fed gun and with acrylic enamel paint. I used that kind of paint because my dad painted cars occasionally when I was growing up teaching me along the way, so that's what I stuck with. Now Ive been watching my grandfather paint a few cars, and speaking with people and tried out my motorcycle with HoK base/clear and ill never go back. In my area, I can get pretty much any brand paint...PPG, Martain Senior, Sherwin Williams, HoK, Sikkens, Im just wondering because Im really impressed with Hok. Right now Im using a Sata HVLP with a 1.3 tip for base and 1.5 for clear. I dont know that the tip size makes that much of a difference, but i switched anyway. Anyways, thats my life's painting story and Im just looking for any imput you may have

[ragtopman]

[DUB]

Originally Posted by crossed

Whats your opinion of HOK?

I have used it when I do custom paint jobs. It has worked well for me...but I have also used SEM candy concentrate that I can add to my own clear and get it to work just as well. PPG candies are good also. Now this is depending on if you are "stricktly" talking about CUSTOM PAINT.

Originally Posted by crossed

I used it on a motorcycle, and HOK clear takes more work to finish in color sanding it out and such because it has such a high solids content, but it came out pretty much perfect. Nassan came out pretty nice without any color sanding at all, but from what I hear thats because of the low solids content and as so will not hold up long term to UV rays and such. I do have to say, I have been very impressed with the HoK Kandies and clears and so Im leaning that way for my vette when the time for paint comes.

I have shot several different types of clears over the years...usually due to customers wanting to have a specific product applied...even though I ...in some cases...advised them against using "some" of these products. Regardless of high solids, medium solids or low solids...as long as the clear is catalyzed with a hardener. AND the number of coats of clear meet the mil thickness required. The clear will hold up. I personally do not like to use a clear with a reducer or thinner in it....but that is just me...even though I have used that type of clear in the past....with very good results. AND as I was told by a "brainiac" in the lab for a MAJOR paint manufacturer...all catalyzed clear will eventually go to high solids when it is completed its curing process. SO these comments you are hearing just do not add up...because I have used all types of clears and have had no problems with them...and this also includes lacquer clear. AS long as enough is applied and allowed to flash as recommended..and PROPERLY maintained..you should not have a problem.

And these comments that you are hearing at the gatherings that you attend. Are they from painters? Because you MUST also consider the care and maintenance of a fresh paint job. Many people believe that when they get their car painted...that it should be perfect forever. They are living in a "bubble" and not reality. Paint needs polish to keep it fortified with the resins and oils needed to fight against the UV's of the sun. I do not use wax...I apply a polish...but once again...my paint jobs are fresh and I do not want to seal it up and have a problem in the future.

The reason that the HOK clear is hard to deal with is that is it getting hard fast. And will come up looking great...but is a bit harder to deal with versus a medium or low solids clear...which will sand easier and buff well...and eventually get just as hard....but may require more coats. Sometimes when using a high solids clear...on motorcyle parts (for example) I have reduced the clear to aid it flowing out so it is not as textured. But this does change it to a meduim/low solid clear ( depending on how far I reduce/thin it) and had to apply several more coats. But when I was done...it looked like you dipped it in "baby oil". and this is also dealing with covering the graphics,air brushing,designing pearls, metalflakes, etc. In some cases...I want a medium/low soild clear that I can apply several times....instead of one thick heavy coat of high solids clear.

HOK is a good choice if they have a color that you can not find anywhere else. That choice is entirely up to you.

Originally Posted by crossed

Now Ive been watching my grandfather paint a few cars, and speaking with people and tried out my motorcycle with HoK base/clear and ill never go back. In my area, I can get pretty much any brand paint...PPG, Martain Senior, Sherwin Williams, HoK, Sikkens, Im just wondering because Im really impressed with Hok.

Like I said ...it is good paint. And if it works for you. Stick with what you feel best using. It is all about confidence and comfort when yuo go to paint a car. If you are not sure...that is when problems will occur.

Originally Posted by crossed

Right now Im using a Sata HVLP with a 1.3 tip for base and 1.5 for clear. I dont know that the tip size makes that much of a difference, but i switched anyway.

I use the same at my shop. In some cases I use the 1.3 for clear. It helps in breaking up the clear (depending on what type I am using) so I do not get a lot of texture after several coats. Knowing that my air pressure is going to be a constant (let's say 45psi)..then I would adjust my fluid control and fan pattern to make it so my clear is being broken up into "droplets" the size of BB's instead of marbles. I know that the clear does not come out the size of BB's or marbles...I am using it as a reference to the droplet size change when a differnt head and needle is used...much like if you used a 2.0 head...the clear droplet may be the size of golf balls. When the air pressure is breaking up the clear...depending on the clear..which you would have to preform a TEST...SOMETIMES a smaller head will work better than a larger one.

Do you have the "balancing head" for your SATA????? They are kinda expensive...but they well worth it and aid in taking the guess work out of setting up your gun. When the gun is balanced...you would have to be blind or an idiot not to be able to shoot high metallic/pearls jobs without streaking, mottling...given that you have the understanding and knowledge on HOW TO PAINT...which it seems that you do.

I hope that this helped....if not PM me and I will add more.

"DUB"

[jrm747]

from my understanding, HOK just has more custom color choices. I have a color chart from PPG's Vibrance colors that are their custom colors. as far as them being better or longer lasting, HOK is no better than most other good companies. they just lean towards custom finishes more.