I started the paint removal process on my '68 today. I used a razor blade on the top layer of paint, then a DA on the next five layers of paint/primer to get to the original paint. I want to remove these two layers by hand. I am looking for suggestions on what type and length of sanding blocks to use. Is there a sanding block/tool that flexes to use around the fenders? 1st timer, thanks for the help.
You will need an assortment of lengths, shapes and curvatures. I have just started using "Durablock" brand blocks and like them. They offer several kits containing various shapes, some of which are flexible for curved panels. I will be shopping for a full "long board" paper length flexible block as I find even the most flexible Durablock a bit stiff for my personal taste. As you get into the project you will find your own best combination of shapes and sizes... but in general use the longest board which will fit to minimise waviness. Go slowly and have fun!
Not sure about having fun, but I am going slowwww. I feel like an archaeologist. Thanks for the tip on durablock, I'll check it out. I'm probably going to need some stripper on the edges and sharp curves because of all the build up.
I can report that the soft top hatch has never been in an accident......wish that was true for the rest of the car.
If you are going to use a stripper on the areas that are hard to remove paint by hand...why not use it to aid you in getting the paint off the panel. If it is factory paint on the panel that you are block sanding off. The chemical stripper should make fast work of removing it without any damage to the fiberglass. Block sanding an entire Corvette down is a labor intensive job...needless to write. And due to the panel thickness in some areas during manufacturing...excessive sanding to remove paint could possible take away some of the integrity of that panel in those areas....even if you go slow and take you time. I am just speaking from experience...and many others on the forum have have "different" views on this. You are going to be sanding your arms to "jello" before the job is done...and if you can get the paint off with minimal risk and damage to areas of concern...why not use it....chemical stripper that is. Test a small spot and see how well it works for you....seeing how you are going to use it in hard to get areas anyway.
Best of luck...and if you need "tips and tricks" ...just let us know what you have going on and I am sure "we" can help you out.
"DUB"
I'm in the "strippers scare me" camp. I have good success using a sharp pocket knife on edges and in complex curves. I actually have a couple different blade shapes I keep in the toolbox for just such things... the stiffness of the blade makes all the difference. You can "whittle" the layers one at a time if you wish with a bit of practise. Works excellently on stubborn gaskets and weatherstrip glue as well! Keep them sharp with either cast off DA discs, or strop wet if you're wet sanding.
the first old vette i did, i started off sanding by hand. then found a stripper i was comfortable with, and boy did it help out a lot. just be sure to wear some rubber gloves that are chemical resistant. that stuff eats thru thin gloves. and it tingles a bit.......
After reading the replies and archived posts, I'm realizing how many professionals use chemical strippers. I have an old door I can experiment with. Not crazy about dealing with the mess, but the goal is to remove the paint and preserve the fiberglass. The temperature is warming here, good for outdoor body work. Thanks for the info.
Some original '68 international blue - so that's what it looks like.
ragu,
If you plan on using chemical stripper OUTSIDE ...make sure that you DO NOT apply it IF the panel is HOT and in DIRECT SUNLIGHT. Outside in the shade is fine.
DO a test...about 3" x 5". apply the stripper about as thick and the width of a wood matchstick...if possible. Brush teh stripper in ONE DIRECTION ONLY...and DO NOT brush it back and forth...like you are painting a house. Directions will be on the can...duh... and most of the strippers ( not including the spray on type) that i have used clearly state that brushing the stripper back and forth is NOT recommended. The stripper will creat a 'skin" that will allow the chemicals to go down and soften the paint. If you brush it back and forth...you disrupt this 'skin' and the stripper will still work, but will take longer.
Once you do a test and see that it is taking the paint and primer off...then you can possibly reduce the amount of stripper that you apply. I have used chemical strippers for well over 20 years and NEVER had a problem caused by the stripper or the solvents that I have used to remove the stripper. Usually it is a problem due to some "BOZO" who thought they knew Corvette repair and "butchered" the car...by taking high speed sanders/grinders to it and really taking away a lot of the bodies structual integrity.
"Bondo" spreaders work great in scraping off the paint that has been softened by the stripper...and not gouge the panels.
There is more informati0on you need to know about stripper...if you care to know...just respond.
Thanks Dub,
What are your thoughts on using lacquer thinner to wipe off any remaining stripper and help remove the factory primer? Will it adversely affect the fiberglass? Citristrip directs the use of mineral spirits. I also read about using a reducer.
I appreciate the replies. With all the labor involved I definitely want to get it right.
We did my entire '71 with "aircraft remover" stripper. Note that it does NOT take off the factory lacquer primer. For that we used scotchbrite and lacquer thinner.
The key to making this work is that after the thinner scrub, the panels have to be carefully scrubbed with water and detergent (like dawn), then scrubbed with clean water. And, very important, left to dry completely which means a MINIMUM of 24 hours, preferably in the sun before ANYTHING goes onto the panel. Be it primer, fiberglass or bondo, it HAS to dry out first. If you follow this you will not have any problems.
Corvette Store
DA sander, now what?
I feel like an archaeologist. Thanks for the tip on durablock, I'll check it out. I'm probably going to need some stripper on the edges and sharp curves because of all the build up. 
with dub
