I will be putting a stripe over my C4 and I have a few questions about covering the tape lines. I have used base coat clear coat before as well as lacquer. However, I have only done solid color with base/clear before. When I did stripes in lacquer I would spray the base color, mask off the stripe area, then after spraying the stripe color I would sand the tape line so it was not so sharp before clearing over it with clear lacquer. I know with base/clear the sand scratches will show up in the clear so how do I make the tape line not so sharp? Do I have to pile on coats of clear? Is it ok to sand clear after it drys then add another coat?
Also, how long can the base color dry before adding tape to it for the stripe?
Thats how I did it with BC/CC, sanded the tape line with 600 and then shot 3 coats or clear, wetsanded that out and shot two more coats, sanded and buffed. No more tape line.
Thats how I did it with BC/CC, sanded the tape line with 600 and then shot 3 coats or clear, wetsanded that out and shot two more coats, sanded and buffed. No more tape line.
Thats how Im doing mine. Starting the stripe off the scoop with a thin outline around it. Didnt the 600 scratches show up in the clear? Ive seen when someone did sand under clear in it looks good at some angles but others you can see all the strokes of sandpaper.
Who's paint are you using....makes a difference on drying times before applying tape.
What color is your car going to be?
What color is your stripe going to be...this makes a difference because basecoat film build can be high if you are applying lets say yellow over black.
If you are painting a solid color stripe on a solid color car....you can carefully scuff off any edge that you may have gotten due to film build. Then you can apply two coats of clear on the panels with the stripe. When it is dry (next day) you can sand that clear carefully and apply more clear. BUT it all depends on what you are doing.
I have a way I do things ...but....without knowing what you are using and the properties of the paint system you have chosen...it is hard to tell you EXACTLY how to do it without this information. Choices in reducers/thinners and hardeners is wide and some clears do not like going on in many coats at one time without causing a problem where these coats of clear are not hard enough so when you go and apply mirrors, door handles and bumpers...the clear is dry to the touch, but is quite IMPRESSIONABLE and will "moosh" out from under these parts that you are installing/ tightening them. EVEN IF IT IS BAKED! This is due to excessive film build in the clear...even it is applied twice...the clear needs time to get hard.
When I do "custom" jobs like this....it is a PROCESS and TIME CONSUMING so that no problems occur in the future . ESPECIALLY if I am NOT wanting to feel the stripe/graphic/mural when I run my finger over it. In some cases, I apply ONE good coat of clear AFTER the car has been basecoated....and when it has dried I then prep it for my design work so I do not run the risk of damaging the basecoat color...especially if it is a metallic/pearl color.
EVERYBODY has a different way of doing things. BUT I still enjoy doing custom jobs..because when it is all done...they can sometimes be quite awesome....regardless if I was the painter or not. I appreciate/admire the TIME and ATTENTION to DETAIL in custom work.
"DUB"
Who's paint are you using....makes a difference on drying times before applying tape.
What color is your car going to be?
What color is your stripe going to be...this makes a difference because basecoat film build can be high if you are applying lets say yellow over black.
If you are painting a solid color stripe on a solid color car....you can carefully scuff off any edge that you may have gotten due to film build. Then you can apply two coats of clear on the panels with the stripe. When it is dry (next day) you can sand that clear carefully and apply more clear. BUT it all depends on what you are doing.
I have a way I do things ...but....without knowing what you are using and the properties of the paint system you have chosen...it is hard to tell you EXACTLY how to do it without this information. Choices in reducers/thinners and hardeners is wide and some clears do not like going on in many coats at one time without causing a problem where these coats of clear are not hard enough so when you go and apply mirrors, door handles and bumpers...the clear is dry to the touch, but is quite IMPRESSIONABLE and will "moosh" out from under these parts that you are installing/ tightening them. EVEN IF IT IS BAKED! This is due to excessive film build in the clear...even it is applied twice...the clear needs time to get hard.
When I do "custom" jobs like this....it is a PROCESS and TIME CONSUMING so that no problems occur in the future . ESPECIALLY if I am NOT wanting to feel the stripe/graphic/mural when I run my finger over it. In some cases, I apply ONE good coat of clear AFTER the car has been basecoated....and when it has dried I then prep it for my design work so I do not run the risk of damaging the basecoat color...especially if it is a metallic/pearl color.
EVERYBODY has a different way of doing things. BUT I still enjoy doing custom jobs..because when it is all done...they can sometimes be quite awesome....regardless if I was the painter or not. I appreciate/admire the TIME and ATTENTION to DETAIL in custom work.
"DUB"
I am not sure what type of paint I am using yet. I am still doing some of the body work including bonding the scoop to the hood, fixing cracked sections. When I have used BC/CC in the past it was PPG DBC I believe. It was PPGs "budget" line. Not cheap but not professional stuff either. What do you recommend for doing detail work? The red would have to match the factory color also as Im not doing the whole car just some repairs. If you say one type of clear/color is better for detail work I will see if my store carries it. They have mostly PPG products.
The car is red and I will be doing a black stripe with a gunmetal outline. No metallics.
What do you mean "scuff off" the film build before the clear? Just run sand paper along the edges of the stripe and not really on the top surface?
Kubs,
Thanks for your reply and I PM'd you with more information. It further helps in filling in the pieces so additional information can be given.
"DUB"
Kubs,
Thanks for your reply and I PM'd you with more information. It further helps in filling in the pieces so additional information can be given.
"DUB"
Thanks for taking the time to talk to me. Great advise!
Corvette Store
Painting Over Tape Lines, Question
