Thinner for acrylic enamal?

corvetteronw · 01-16-2010, 01:55 PM

I bought 2003 Anniversary wheels for my C4 as I really like the look of the "champagne gold" against my Steel Blue Metallic car.
I did not get the wheel centers with them so I bought a set of chrome centers and wanted to paint them to match the wheels.
I was unable to find a rattle can in the correct color despite my best efforts with the local GM dealers and paint stores.
I finally got a quart of the correct paint from an on line supplier. The instructions on the can do not help me much. I know I need to use some type of paint thinner but what to use? It is Saturday afternoon and all the automotive paint supply stores are closed. I tried the local Ace Hardware store and they have all kind of paint thinners but none of the cans state that they could be used for acrylic enamel.
Can someone help a "do it yourselfer" out here?
My wife says to take it to a body shop but I want to say I did it myself.
Hard headed (and on a budget) that's me!

corvetteronw · 01-16-2010, 01:58 PM

Here is the car and the wheels. And, yes I can get the parts warm enough to paint in the garage with the help of a warming light and an electric heater.

JimmyS5600 · 01-16-2010, 04:53 PM

Who is the manufactor of the enamal paint you picked up? Call or email them on what reducer to use. I have used both PPG and Dupont enamal paints and went with their reducer and hardner. Worked well.
Hope this helps.
Jimmy

DUB · 01-16-2010, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyS5600

Who is the manufactor of the enamal paint you picked up? Call or email them on what reducer to use. I have used both PPG and Dupont enamal paints and went with their reducer and hardner. Worked well.
Hope this helps.
Jimmy

Jimmy is corrrect...You will need to contact the manufacturer and USE their products so you do not run into an issue with incompatibility. I also would advise a hardener with the reducer.

Also ask for a Tech sheet...so you know how to mix and apply it.

I personally/professionally paint wheels with a basecoat....and then apply a scratch resistant clearcoat which helps in keeping them looking good for a long time...but...brake dust and residue can melt into the finish. Those wheels were powder coated...and it also can become damaged if your brakes are not up to par and you allow hot metal particles to get on them. I usually have them re-powder coated...unless it is a custom color I am looking for and there is no powder that matches it.

"DUB"

corvetteronw · 01-17-2010, 02:07 PM

I read the label again. There was so much "warning crap" on there to satisfy their attorneys that I missed the info that I needed.
The paint is from Restoration Workshop and it already has a hardener built in. I found where it says to use a urethane reducer.
Thanks for your help!

DUB · 01-17-2010, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corvetteronw

I read the label again. There was so much "warning crap" on there to satisfy their attorneys that I missed the info that I needed.
The paint is from Restoration Workshop and it already has a hardener built in. I found where it says to use a urethane reducer.
Thanks for your help!

Odd question: How can it have HARDENER "built in" and yet still be in a liquid state. This is a "new" one for me. Hardener usually means ....hard. This must be some new fangled paint technology that I am not aware of. I hope that it works for you....keep us posted....very interesting.

"DUB"

JimmyS5600 · 01-17-2010, 08:18 PM

Dub I wondered the same thing,how can that be. Sounds strange

markids77 · 01-18-2010, 02:40 PM

The paint actually has a drying agent added so it can be reduced, sprayed then air dry without a hardener. It can also be used with a hardener to help film strength and gloss retention. It will not set up as quickly, nor as "hard" as with the additive but should be OK on the wheel centers.