After finishing my 67 vert door with 3 coats of SPI Universal clear. I noticed primer showing through the door edge perpindicular to the door outer surface.
I had neglected to get full coverage during basing.
I then decided to tape off the edge with 3/4" green 3 M tape and reshoot with base and clear too the edge. There was 2" plain masking tape and paper covering the entire door and the green tape. Everything was going fine until I removed the tape and was cleaning up the edge with water base wax and grease remover and ended up with a 3/16" circle where it appears the base coat that was reduced 2-1 with reducer had gotten blown under the tape at that hollow sculptured area at the top of the door. Taking the finish off down to the epoxy sealer under the base. I have 2 days to fix and have never done a spot repair. I also don't have a spot repair gun so any fix will have to be with my Iwata lph400purple and silver tip.
The base paint is Restoration shop Marlboro Maroon a silver metalic and pearl paint
What do you think? I am leaning towards sanding down the clear with 320/400/600 to the base, spotting the damage with base, followed by a recoat of base to cover and another 3 coats of clear.
Bob
I recommend reshooting the whole door. You will be VERY fortunate if the "cast" matches the other parts you have done already. High metallics and pearls are a bear to match if not all shot together. Good luck!
I recommend reshooting the whole door. You will be VERY fortunate if the "cast" matches the other parts you have done already. High metallics and pearls are a bear to match if not all shot together. Good luck!
You may find yourself blending the adjacent panels to get a color match also if your doing other than a solid color.
Well here are results boys and girls. With the incouragement of Len over at autobodystore.com. I went ahead and sanded the clear down with 400 followed by 600 to remove all the peel and trash. I then tested reduced ,by 50% ,SPI epoxy ,which I used to seal the 2K with before the base ,for a reaction from my hotest reducer. This was a major concern that Len had about the epoxy reacting to the base reducer and causing the original problem.
Well the epoxy was completely unfazed by the reducer. Only the clear and base were compromised.
So I loaded up my full size Sharpe Platinum with some base and choked down the spray to what you would expect from a detail gun and shot the base from the back edge fwd with a mist extending about 2.5", took about 3 coats to get the desired results.
This morning just before shooting the rest of my job with clear I tested the repair by spotting some clear over the damaged area. The results were perfect. Never know anything happened, color match identical.
I'm really empressed with the Restoration Shop base I used for this job. 3/4 of the way through ,I realized I'de need another quart to finish. The ordered extra quart was a perfect match.
I'll write a review on Restoration Shop base latter. Right now I.m clearing the front clip.
Bob
Corvette Store
Door edge repair goes bad
You may find yourself blending the adjacent panels to get a color match also if your doing other than a solid color. 
