Quote:
Originally Posted by markids77
First let me say I have a lot less experience than Grandmaster or porchdog... may they spank me publicly if I'm wrong but here goes. Color will be "thinner" than primer so back pressure down a couple PSI, and liquid in a bit. Use about 40 percent overlap. Be aware that the spray pattern might "dry up" a bit as the paint level in the cup goes down... less paint = less weight. If you adjust liquid to compensate remember to take it back out when refilling the cup. Huge sliding runs await those who forget....
Get something to use as test panels if you have a bit of paint extra and try gun/height/speed settings until you get the best flow out. Write these settings down (turns from full closed) if you'll test one day and paint another. Don't be afraid to compensate for wet/dry application with gun speed/ height/ gun settings (probably in that order) if you get odd result as you spray. Pay attention to how a good pass feels and repeat about 150 times.... your job will turn out perfect I'm sure!
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partially. SO NO SPANKING HERE markids 77.
You should not have to adjust you gun during the paint job due to fluid level being less in theh cup. The fluid will come out regardless the same becasue of gravity and "trigger pull" setting of your gun. Problems may occur if you let your vent in the lid get plugged up and it will create a vacuum...causing your paint to not come out as required. I always check mine during gun fill ups.
The overlaps will depend on your setting of the gun...but I go for generally 50/50 overlaps....sometimes its 75/25...sometimes its 60/40. But who is counting...find out what works in test panels and test, test, test. Your spray pattern and fluid setting is what is PARAMOUNT...along with distance from the panel and travel speed...and thinner/reducer choice.
(edited response from another post that I gave this information)
YES, When the basecoat is applied...much like lacquer...a medium-wet coat....NOT A HEAVY COAT.....and NOT A DRY COAT...that may be rough looking. You want to see that it is shiny-wet...but not soaking wet. Use a test panel to gain confidence and see how the paint reacts to your paint gun setting and style. AND...when the basecoat has flashed off....it will be dull with an slight "eggshell" texture....possibly the base coat may have a slight sheen to it.
Not knowing if you know or not...so forgive me if I seem a bit...insensitive.
The knob on your gun that controls fliud is important. In this case...I would turn it all the way in...so you have NO trigger pull...then back it out 2 to 2-1/2 FULL TURNS. Now my guns are HVLP gravity feed guns with a 1.3 head on it. If you gun(s) are different...you may adjust accordingly. BUT whatever you do...I personally/professionally do not advise that you have a FULL trigger pull when applying your basecoat and clearcoat.
Remember that thinner coats flash faster than ONE HEAVY COAT. Thinner in the last statement DOES NOT reference to the thinner you use to thin the paint...but rather in reference to film thickness.
Also keep in mind...eventhough many other painters may do it a different way...which is fine. I am a believer that when I am shooting at a controlled air pressure...lets say 45psi. The controlled amount of paint coming out of my gun is being atomized by that air pressure. I would rather find that "sweet spot" in fluid volume that works best with the air pressure and correctly thinned paint, so I know that I am atomizing the paint correctly and allowing the finish to lay down as smooth as possible....which also depends greatly on your travel speed with the gun, distance from the panel and the THINNER/REDUCER you choose to use for your CURRENT temperature at the time of painting. So your fluid setting on your gun at the air pressure you are set at can either atomize the paint into a workable mist...or basically shoot droplets of paint....which droplets can cause ORANGEPEEL...due to being applied to heavy. So you can have either BB's or golf balls...if you wanted to think about it in a magnified state. I prefer BB's.
It is a total balancing act...so that is why I mentioned TEST FIRST. I have been doing it so long it is second nature now. The only part that I have to adjust is my grade of thinner/reducer...because the paint system that I use in conjunction with my HVLP paint guns...I use ONE GRADE SLOWER reducer/thinner than what the temperature at the time of painting NORMALLY calls for. This is so that my basecoat has time to "flow" before it TOTALLY flashes off....and I DO NOT GET DRY SPRAY...when I am going from one side of the car to the other.
SO when I am painting...I am NOT TRYING to shoot it SLICK and DRIPPING WET. I apply my paint so that it is ...like I wrote above...a medium-wet coat....that may have very little texture in it...but when it flashed off...it is very slick and smooth..with very little texture, if any at all...and I DO NOT HAVE OVERSPRAY collecting on the other panels when it is ready for the next coat. Which confirms that my choice of reducer/thinner, fluid setting, and techinque is "right on the money".
And how do I know this...you may wonder....because when I tack off before the final coat of base..just to help pick up any lint or minor specks that the tack rag will pick up.....my tack rag is CLEAN...and does not have any color on it at all....that is how I know. But needless to say..if I have specks that will not come up witha tack rag...BEFORE my final coat of base....I wet sand them out CAREFULLY...depending on the color and other issues...which would take me days to type out.
So...if you are goiing to basecoat/ clearcoat this car...remember that you are not trying to get excessive basecoat film thickness. The clearcoat is where that comes into "play" so you have good protection from the UV'S of the sun. Get enough color to achieve "full hiding".
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