adding fiberglass to door....question
01-22-2010, 11:27 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
01-24-2010, 03:14 AM
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
good questions about the "correct" gap tolerance. i am no expert, but IMO when you are fitting the doors on a raw body (no primer or paint, just raw fibreglas) you should shoot for a gap somewhere between 1/8" and 3/16"
as far as what the factory deemed as acceptable, i am not sure, but i can tell you from first hand experience, some gaps between 1/4" to 5/16" were not uncommon. those wide gaps make the "lines" on the car look very sloppy.
keep in mind (as Dub reminded me) that you don't want to make your door gaps too tight when working with the raw body, because you still have primer, sealer, and top coat paint (and possibly clear coat) to add material to the gap, and you will pick up several mm's with that process! rick
as far as what the factory deemed as acceptable, i am not sure, but i can tell you from first hand experience, some gaps between 1/4" to 5/16" were not uncommon. those wide gaps make the "lines" on the car look very sloppy.
keep in mind (as Dub reminded me) that you don't want to make your door gaps too tight when working with the raw body, because you still have primer, sealer, and top coat paint (and possibly clear coat) to add material to the gap, and you will pick up several mm's with that process! rick
03-11-2014, 01:56 AM
#28
Racer
I professionally speaking...prefer to add to the BODY. Due to the steel innner structure of the door.... the amount of fiberglass that is left to extend past it is minor. Usually about 3/16". So when I have problems with teh gaps I build up on the fenders and quarter panels...wherever needed. This is so that there is no possibility of the extended piece of fiberglass breaking off in the future if something were to get caught on it
Zwede did a great job in the photo's that were posted...and I am not saying that it will work...because the proof is shown.
I just choose to do it a different way so when the inner part of the door is looked at...you do not see the extension...my way is more undectable. Thats all. I have customers that are quite "picky"...and I do not blame them...and it isn't that hard for me to do it my way. This is also assumiong that your outer skin has not been sanded back to the steel inner structure.
If you want to do it my way....call me and I will describe how I do it.
"DUB" (704) 394-5150 EST 8:30-5:00 M-F
Zwede did a great job in the photo's that were posted...and I am not saying that it will work...because the proof is shown.
I just choose to do it a different way so when the inner part of the door is looked at...you do not see the extension...my way is more undectable. Thats all. I have customers that are quite "picky"...and I do not blame them...and it isn't that hard for me to do it my way. This is also assumiong that your outer skin has not been sanded back to the steel inner structure.
If you want to do it my way....call me and I will describe how I do it.
"DUB" (704) 394-5150 EST 8:30-5:00 M-F
I know this is old, but I'm at this stage and my gaps need fixed. Sounds like you have a great process, and the results look awesome. Can I give you a call for some pointers? Thanks.
03-11-2014, 05:59 PM
#29
Race Director
03-11-2014, 10:11 PM
#30
Safety Car
DUB is more than happy to take a phone call and help a fellow corvette owner out. He will share his knowledge and experience and let you know how to do it right. I speak from personal experience. 
Thanks DUB!
Thanks DUB!
