Best paint/sound/heat control combo for underside of car?

77TexVette · 10-11-2009, 10:34 PM

Hi everybody,
I finally completed 90+% of the body work including new fiberglass and epoxy for all factory seams, fender flares, permanently attaching new front and rear bumpers, etc, etc. I'll post pictures in the other thread related to this.

Now it's time to think about the perfect combination of paint, sound and/or heat control for the underside of the car, wheel wells and engine room.

Here's where I am right now:
- All fiberglass/epoxy work is done
- All former paint and undercoating is gone

What I need to know:
- What is the perfect combination of a tough paint for these areas and how good are some of these sound and heat control paints that are around?
- For example, is the perfect combination to paint the whole underside with something like SPI epoxy primer and then add something like Lizardskin http://www.lizardskin.com/on top of that? They have both heat control and sound control "paint". I ultimately want to tend up with a coating that gives me maximum protection from road debris and dampens as much sound and heat as possible.

I have read through many of the post that detail out steps to achieve a great paint job for the top of the car, but not too much specifically for the underside.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks! Michael

porchdog · 10-12-2009, 09:47 AM

i use lizardskin on every build. on the 57 i just finished we used it inside and the entire bottom. it gives the car a solid sound and helps with stars also. beware of the homebrews for lizardskin. it is not latex paint . it is a latex base. i wont build a car without it. i also use spi epoxy first.

77TexVette · 10-12-2009, 03:48 PM

Porchdog,
thanks as always for the quick reply. I assume you use the Lizardskin Ceramic product or do you use the Lizardskin SC - Sound Control (or both)?
Seems like the Ceramic is mainly for heat and the SC for sound dampening.

Two more questions:
- Did you use the spray gun that Lizardskin sells or does any gun with a large enough cap work? Seems like the Lizardskin gun can be stuck right into the bucket.
- I am still planning to cover the interior with Dynamat or something similar - unless somebody convinces me that this is overkill after applying Lizardskin.

Thanks!
Michael

porchdog · 10-12-2009, 04:01 PM

i use the gun because it is adjustable. i also thin it a little. i put both sc and hc on them. i use nothing else. i do the bottom and inside of firewall. on inside i do the sc about 60 thousandth thick.on a car like the 57 i use 2 gal of hc and about 1 gal of sc . i now do all of the interior .

77TexVette · 10-12-2009, 11:19 PM

Excellent. Thanks.
Best way to get the product seems to be Summit Racing as they charge only $11.95 in shipping no matter what.

I also found out that the closest SPI jobber is 3h away, but the SPI rep responded immediately to my email and stated they'll ship it directly to me free of shipping charges. Good guys !

Can't wait to get some paint on the car as I feel like I've been sanding concrete (or epoxy resin - same thing) for months.

M.

porchdog · 10-14-2009, 10:25 AM

you can not beat spi for quality or service. if you have a problem you can talk to the man who made it, not some moron tech reading from a tech sheet.

claysmoker · 10-14-2009, 01:05 PM

Hey Porch, how much do you thin the Lizard Skin?

Thanks!

porchdog · 10-14-2009, 01:44 PM

in each cup i use about smidgen but then on a hot day i'll use jest a little

i add water to each cup 1/2 ounce at a time. then go by look or test shoot it . depends on temp and such as to how much you can or have to thin it. but go 1/2 ounce at a time on the first cup then you know for the rest. with the adjustable gun you can get a pretty good surface instead of lumpy oatmeal .

claysmoker · 10-14-2009, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by porchdog

in each cup i use about smidgen but then on a hot day i'll use jest a little

i add water to each cup 1/2 ounce at a time. then go by look or test shoot it . depends on temp and such as to how much you can or have to thin it. but go 1/2 ounce at a time on the first cup then you know for the rest. with the adjustable gun you can get a pretty good surface instead of lumpy oatmeal .

I take it you are using the gun that Lizardskin sells?

Thanks again for all the info. How the heck do you find time to work?

porchdog · 10-14-2009, 03:02 PM

my lap top is in my build room out in the shop .

77TexVette · 07-02-2010, 04:02 AM

Hi there,
So I finally painted the whole underside of the body with SPI Epoxy and then added coats of Lizardskin Sound Control and ultimately Lizardskin CI (the heat control). All worked great and as Porchdog mentioned, if you experiment a little bit with adding just a little water, the finish is quite smooth.

Question: Do you leave the heat control coat of Lizardskin as the final coat on the underside or does it have any benefits to now paint some final tough undercoat over all of this (for protection mainly)? The Lizardskin coat is quite tough, but I also don't want to ding it up too much over time and lose my heat shield.

Thanks! Pictures will follow.

Michael

ikwhite · 07-14-2010, 07:27 AM

I used both the Lizard Skin Sound and Ceramic Heat control on the inside and out of my project C3 build, I also recommend using their gun. I tried without and that was a mistake ended up ordering it from Summit. I used SPI epoxy inside and out as my primer and finished off the underside with Bullet Proof Coatings black epoxy topcoat. Make sure that if you topcoat the Lizard Skin that you use a paint with enough flex so as not to crack, as was explained to me by one of the Lizard Skin reps when I contacted them.

Stripped to bare glass and/or steel, repaired where needed,2 coats SPI epoxy primer, Lord fusor two part epoxy sealer applied,3 coats lizard skin Sound deadner,2 coats lizard skin ceramic insulation, 3 coats Bullit Proof Coatings epoxy topcoat on underside.

ikwhite

ikwhite · 07-14-2010, 07:39 AM

Michael I top coated for looks and so that I could maintain it better. As you say the raw Lizard Skin is tough, but will be harder to maintain than a topcoat. Just make sure that if you decide to topcoat that you use something with enough flexability to flex with the Lizard Skin or it will crack over time.

ikwhite

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77TexVette

Hi there,
So I finally painted the whole underside of the body with SPI Epoxy and then added coats of Lizardskin Sound Control and ultimately Lizardskin CI (the heat control). All worked great and as Porchdog mentioned, if you experiment a little bit with adding just a little water, the finish is quite smooth.

Question: Do you leave the heat control coat of Lizardskin as the final coat on the underside or does it have any benefits to now paint some final tough undercoat over all of this (for protection mainly)? The Lizardskin coat is quite tough, but I also don't want to ding it up too much over time and lose my heat shield.

Thanks! Pictures will follow.

Michael

77TexVette · 08-01-2010, 02:41 AM

ikwhite,
thanks for the reply and pictures. It looks great. i used the same materials and process.
Question: I was searching for the Bullit Proof coating you mentioned, but couldn't find it. Can you tell me who sells this?

Thanks again....

Quote:

Originally Posted by ikwhite

Michael I top coated for looks and so that I could maintain it better. As you say the raw Lizard Skin is tough, but will be harder to maintain than a topcoat. Just make sure that if you decide to topcoat that you use something with enough flexability to flex with the Lizard Skin or it will crack over time.

ikwhite