I have a friend who has a Honda that the clear has started to come off.Its clouding and pealing. Can it be sanded in this area and then re-cleared the whole car or would it be best to just re shoot with a S/S. Looking for a cheap way out. He just wants it to look decent and not show the clear problem. Im doing the work in a local college to get experience before I shoot my car and the teacher is really only watching things and does'nt have much knowledge. Planning on using SPI universal clear.
Clouding and peeling? On a Honda. Sounds like someone has painted on it before and messed something up.
To answer your question...the clear needs to be sanded down carefully...so you do not break through the basecoat and primer. Then I would apply a coat of basecoat color..to even thing out and get the color correct...then apply clear coat.
I myself would remove all of the clear...so you do not run into a problem later...due to possible delamination issues. Get that clear off any panel that has these issues. ESPECIALLY where it is peeling off. IF on a panel it is cloudy...you can try to sand it down and apply basecoat color and re-clear. IT is hard to exactly say what to do...because sometimes if the cloudiness is caught soon enough...sometimes clear can fix it. BUT I can't see it from here and would need to sand on it to tell if the clear is shot...because it "powders" away very quickly. I would test by using P500 grit wet/dry paper and watersand it by hand....and then procede from there.
"DUB"
This is original. I have seen this delamination on several cars of the same year. Seems to be a factory flaw. So whole car should be sanded carefully and not into the color but you suggest to put some color (B/C) on the areas already exposed to the elements?
I doubt you will be successful in sanding the "curse" off and feathering the edges without any cut through. I would 400/600 it, seal it and apply a coat or two of color then clear the thing. It will be less time, aggro, and look nicer than spotting and blending the cut throughs then clearing. And last longer to boot.
You may want to check with the paint manufacturer that you will be using.. IT has been so long since I have done a single stage paint job...I think 600 grit may be to fine. I would step down to 400 or 500 grit. and dependiing if the color is solid or metallic. If it is metallic I would favor 500 grit so you do not run into "sand scratch " swelling or tracking.
600 may work but the first coat should be carefully applied to prevent it from running off the car...due to the surface being smooth...due to the 600 grit. Also depending if you are going to seal it or not...be careful on the grade of reducer you use also. Slower reducers will flow more and have more "bite", due to they stay wetter longer and can penetrate the previous finish....which can possibly cause areas that were prepped due to the clearcoat delamination...to react and possibly swell and lift.
"DUB"
Corvette Store
Clear question not Corvette related
