i bought my paint supplys today to paint my 1980 vett 2000 torch red and need help with the mixing of the paint on the mixing cup.
went to duponts web site and the mixing ratio for my base coat is this:
8 parts ful-base b/c
1/2 part ful-base activator
4 parts ful-base reducer
the guy at the store where i bought this paint said mix it at 2:1 i understand that part but how do i get the 1/2 part activator messured right on the mixing cup?
i have two styles of mixing cups this is what they read under 2:1 on the side of the cup.
2:1:10%:25%:30%:1:2 how do i get the 1/2 part activator off this scale?
cup # two
2:1+10% how do i get my 1/2 activator off this scale?
I don't use mixing cups, so I cant say for sure, but if I am reading your cup graduations right. I would say use the 2to1 scale +10%. 8 to 1/2 is just a little over 6% so you can just estimate that on the 10% scale.
who ever sold you the paint should have the correct mixing cup for it. there is no guess work in paint any more. get the right cup or stick for it. what brand paint ?
i called the paint store that sold me the paint and he said dont even put that 1/2 part activator in the mix he doesnt and two other body shops dont mix activator with this paint because i have a fast dry reducer he says it will still setup and dry in about 15 minutes without putting a activator in the mix.
so he says mix this settup 2:1
2 parts base
1 part reducer
how does this sound to you guys?
thanks for the help
sounds like a typical counter expert. the activator is to help with the crosslink between clear and base. most painters use some activator in their base even when not called for. just figure out the 1/2 like your planning and go ahead with it. always remember if the paint mfr calls for it there is a reason. always get your tech info from the mfr not some google expert .
i will mix my paint with what you told me porchdog here is a question for you.
on the equal scale on the side of my mixing cup
up to 4 for base 2 this would =4 numbers on cup
up to 6 for reducer 1 this would =2 numbers on cup
up to 7 for activator 1/2 this would =if my reducer takes 2 numbers on cup to = 1 part then my activator will go up to 7 to = 1/2 part of reducer is this correct on my way of thinking?
i think this is right but could you check this for me i do not want to mess this up.
im going to paint a door first to make sure this works if you ok this mixing question for me.
painted my door today and wow where to start.
im not going to giveup on learning how to spray this car myself nomatter what happens.
here gos:sprayed the door today and got what you call a sag in the clear coat.its about 6 inches long across the door about half way down.
im pretty sure it is in the clear coat but will know more tomorrow.
i guess i will have to wet sand this out with 1200 grit is this right?
man after i got done with this thing i thought it looked good went to clean my gun after finishing last coat of clear and when i got done cleaning the gun wow noticed the sag was their.
i guess i need to let each coat of clear dry a little longer.i sprayed the clear like this:after each coat of clear i would touch the door where the door panel gos on and if the clear would string up when i pulled my finger off of it i would spray another coat.guess this might be wrong.
can anybody give a guy advice on learning from his mistakes im not going to giveup on learning this?
advice on how to fix this?
i wait 30 to 45 min between coat unless it is july or aug. then i cut back to 20. flash time is your friend.
put the door in the sun for a day and let it cure. after a good cool down place 2 in tape on the sag. the block with 320. you will cut through the tape and sand only the sag. this will protect the area around it. when you get it pretty much flat switch to 600/1000 then work the door with 1500/2000/3000. pay attention to the sag to make sure it's gone. remember edges and body lines do not need to be sanded. tape them off until final polish. good luck with it.
bunp up your air pressure and cut back a little on fluid.
orange peel = fluid control
sags = air pressure
ok thankyou porchdog i will do what you say.this is the first time i have painted anything i will listen and do exactly what you told me i will slow down on spraying times and turn my pressure down on my gun.
thankyou for the help very much i will keep posting on this thread so other people trying to learn this can learn from my mistakes.
thankyou porchdog talk to you when i get the door ready for paint again.
oh ok porchdog.i will pressureup and cut back on paint vollume at the gun.
i just went out and looked at it in the sunlight it is just the clear that saged down the door.i sprayed each coat of clear to fast like you said.
could you tell me what sand paper i need to buy for this fix here is what paper i have allready bought.
220,400,1200,2500 all are wet sand paper
i also bought a new buffer with 3m foam pads at 38.00 for two pads and cutting compound and polisher.
what grit do i need to get to make this fix work?
took 400 and wetsanded till the sag was gone
then took 1200 wet sanded
then took 2500 and wet sanded it looks real good because of your help.
during this process never broke clear coat at all, always a white milky sanded color no torch red at all in wetsanding.
now can i just take a buffer with the cuting compound and try to blend the front of this door to look good or do i need to respray clear coat on it again?
i took my buffer with a 3m spong wheel and went over the area where the clear coat saged and wow it looks perfect.
the only thing i can see i might have to do is wet sand the rest of the door to match this area.
but would that mean i would have to keep this process and wetsand the whole car after clear drys to keep a uniform look?
im going to get some batteries in my digital camera so everybody can see what i messup as i go.(and how i fixed it)
the clear coat looks good where i did not wetsand but it is not as smooth as the part that i did wetsand.
can anybody advise me on this?
oh by the way i went to another orilleys 65 miles away and they set me up with all the correct supplys for this paint job.these guy knew exactly what i needed and replayced the offbrand reducer with nason reducer and gave me the activator for the paint and said you have to use it.the other orilleys was selling stuff that would not work for this job.but that has been corected now.allways get a second or third opinion if somthing does not seem right.
thanks from philip
I am not a professional painter so when I get a run or sag I like to
make sure there is enough clear after the defect is sanded off.
So I wait enough time for the clear to flash off and then build
up the area by spraying over the run or sag with another coat.
I then spray a second coat a bit further out and follow that up
with one additional coat over the entire panel.
Another reason I like to build the run or sag up with clear is that
adjacent to the area there is often an indent in the paint where
there is reduced clear. This becomes apparent once you start
sanding to level the area.
I then follow porchdog's suggestion on sanding off the sag or run.
I have also removed runs by using a single edge razer blade and
alao a run removing tool that incorporates a razor blade. After
leveling the run with the razor blade I then start water sanding.
You didn't mention how many coats of clear you used but if you
are concerned that the area you sanded to remove the sag has
a lot of the clear removed, I would water sand the entire panel
with 600 paper and give two more coats of clear.
If you need to sand a section to repair an "oops", you are correct... unless you sand and polish the entire job some of it will look different than the rest. 1200, 2500 then polish and wax being careful to stay away from edges and sharp body lines so it all looks uniform... flat and glossy. Take your time,use a block so as not to make it wavy, do a section or panel at a time and after awhile it will all be uniform and beautiful!
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paint mixing question
