To remove any worries about tape lines...I personally clearcoat the car in a dis-assembled state. What year model are you talking about? Each c-series can be done different ways. A C-2 is different than a C-4. Would like to know...so I can try to answer your question. Taping is a very precise process and when removing it after clearing the basecoat often times needs to be done almost immediately...so the clear will lay down flat and not dry with a sharp edge. there are tricks...but need to know your year model.
"DUB"
paint the doors off the car, paint the rest of the car with the doors off then install the doors. if you have graphics that span the doors do the above then paint the graphics then remove the doors and clear over all parts then reinstall the doors.
paint the doors off the car, paint the rest of the car with the doors off then install the doors. if you have graphics that span the doors do the above then paint the graphics then remove the doors and clear over all parts then reinstall the doors.
totally and partially.
The only added advice I can offer is that...because you never mentioned what color your are choosing. That if you are using a solid color...the above procedure is CORRECT.
BUT if you are using a metallic/pearl...it would be wise to apply several coats with everything dis-assembled...then BEFORE the final coat...install the doors, set the hood in place along with the convertible deck hatch....and other items set close to where they belong (wiper door and grille, fuel door, wiper door trim, etc.) So when you blow the final coat on...you know that all of the metallics/pearl will be correct and even. Then CAREFULLY remove these items...unless you are applying graphic designs with tape and such...and if that is done...then you remove these panels and clear the car.
One last bit of advice...at the paint store they should have what they call a "spray out card". It is a piece of paper with white and black squares on it. It is used so when you paint your car...you paint it the EXACT same way..NO DOUBLE OR TRIPLE COATING IT....so when you have enough paint on it...you can not see the squares...thus letting you know that you have "COMPLETE HIDING" of your basecoat color.
Many of todays metallic/pearl colors do not cover well...and this "spray out card" is a LIFESAVER. SO when you pull your car out of the booth and have car headlights shining against the side of your car...you do not see any undercoat showing through. Which can happen...and has happened. I have repaired many cars due to this issue...because due to the intense headlight beam...are not like the lights in the booth...which is different type of light... along with the shadows that many booths have....due to lighting.
"DUB"
Try it out sometime on a test panal.Red will cancel out the green and cover faster.Coverd is coverd,wont affect color. I was a color matcher at a color lab for a major paint mfr for over ten years .
don't think i could handle that. green is my bad color, everybody has a favorite color and one they hate. i just never liked green. i paint everything in pieces and some times months apart. red over white always matches well. i've seen all the little test panels with checkerboards on them but i still prefer white for my base.
don't envy you that job. matching color will drive you nuts sometimes.
Knowing that many of US know this....but this is for those who do not know.
I personally do not have a favorite color for sealer....so to speak. It ALL depends on the color. If the color is full of high solid pigments...then usually it will cover very quick....and it doesn't matter. If the color has alot of weak or transparent pigments or alot of pearl in it...that is when I break out the white/black checkerboard color evaluation cards and do a spray out to make sure I am getting to complete hiding. Sometimes I tint my sealer, sometimes I shoot a solid color close to the final color...but whatever I do...I make sure that the entire car is completly covered in ONE COLOR. NO spotted colors on the car before painting. Like shooting solid yellow....you better paint it white first or you will regret it.
And when it comes to color matching...which I know more than a thing or two about. It often depends on what the factory used and re-painting it the same way. I have shot on enough cars that were "see-through" when headlights were shining on a panel...like a door...where you can actually see the undercoat showing through the color. and if it were painted correctly...it WOULD NOT match.
So basically...different processes for different situations. It is NOT "cut and dry".
"DUB"
Corvette Store
For those that paint their jams etc first
totally and partially. 
green is my bad color, everybody has a favorite color and one they hate. i just never liked green. i paint everything in pieces and some times months apart. red over white always matches well. i've seen all the little test panels with checkerboards on them but i still prefer white for my base.
