You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Corvetteforum.com today!
Hey guys, I am working out plans to install Hardie plank (James Hardie) on my brothers house. I am also planning to use azek trim and stainless nails. This is what I am planning to do....
1- Install all mouldings first.
2- Drill holes and hammer in ss nails, no gun.
3- 1/8 inch gap at ends for room of expansion, high end caulk will be used.
4- add additional house wrap behind each plank seam.
Question, Planks that will have a seam, how do I cut the seam?? do I cut it at a certain angle or straight??? People now say NOT to use caulk on the plank seams, only the ends. why??
Any other tips?? I want to make sure I dont screw anything up, stuff isnt cheap!
thanks!!
Well it has been a few years since the last time I installed it,You don't want to leave gaps in the butt seems of the planking it would look like hell.I would cut the factory edges to make them true and butt together.
I would also paint all the cut edges to seal the planking,That is the kind of thing that separates the good from the average and will prolong the the life of the siding.I can't remember if you can sink the nails all the way on the Hardi or not because of expandtion and contraction,I would think thats the case with the aztec;
thanks Kobie, I heard about the priming as well. they say not to let the nail head sink in the plank. Thats why I wont use the gun.
I have not installed any in about 13 years,But I did use a nail gun and I just turned down the pressure and sank the nail with a hammer to the right depth.It will be hard to nail the planking freehand
The nails were not cheap,I think it was like $250.00 bucks for a box and I think they were shank's.
If your siding is tapered (Stepped)I do believe they sell a filler that Tappers from say a 1/2 to nothing,You use these to fill the gaps next to the Aztec instead of trying to caulk
Dont you need a Diamond tip saw blade to cut the stuff? and have few blades around.
Yes, I used diamond saw blades. They are not the real expensive type but they do cost more.
I am not recommending this but it is what I did. I used a roofing nail gun and (coiled) roofing nails.Left some expansion on the ends but not where I butted them together. Good caulk, as always, is your friend. Using a level on each board is important.
some time the nail gun caused the board to crack but not enough to matter.
If you want to use nails, there is a soft metal spiral nail that is recommended for hardiplank. The cutter may need to use a mask.
1st to the OP:
#1...I highly recommend you install all trim on corners/windows/doors/at soffit/etc., first...then but the Hardie planks and caulk (I think "Big Stretch" is the best paintable caulk for exterior use)
#2...Yes, drill and nail. Few points here (no doubt full of opinions)...We run the siding planks by top nailing with minimum roofing nails, just to get the wall run...then we snap lines where the studs are...pre-drill and nail the bottom of the planks with the SS nails (several manufactures, I like Swan Secure 316 stainless steel 2-1/2" ring shank 8d siding nails...made in the USA in my old hometown Baltimore , MD. DO NOT use cheap Chinese nails for this job!! You will regret it.)
Many live by the rule: "don't bottom nail...don't caulk the bottoms of the planks". Do it however you wish...but I spoke to Hardie...they recommended bottom nailing for best wind protection...and as long as you have moisture exit at the bottom of the siding wall, it looks much better caulked and painted.
Here I'll mention the prefinished Hardie planks. nuff said.
#3...Do not "gap" the butts to trim...and do not gap the siding plank butts. Note here: DO NOT (per Hardie Co. instructions) cut or trim the planks where they butt together. Here we caulk with bigstreach and paint. The Hardie planks do not expand like wood or vinyl...that's the beauty of it, and it's why paint lasts so long on the Hardie.
#4...Not necessary. Believe me...if properly applied, caulked and painted...there will be almost Zero moisture getting behind the Hardie.
A note on the nails: The ss 8d nails have a small waffer head...if you face nail and use the wood grain side of the Hardie planks...after painted they disappear. You don't need to sink and putty the nails. Plus, Hardie is not that thick @ 5/16"...so sinking the nail heads would do more harm than good.
A note on cutting: Hardie Co. makes a pair of electric shears, much like metal shears, that cut the planks like buttah. Both across the "grain", and along the "grain" (rips).
If you're hellbent on using a power-saw (sometimes you have to)...wear eye and breathing protection!!! SERIOUS!!!
A note on wet installation: DO NOT DO IT. Don't install the Hardie planks if they are wet...even a little bit moist. Here on the beach, we had a few days where the fog was so thick, we couldn't run siding.
AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.
I used 4x8 Hardiboard sheets on the outside of my room addition, screwed in place no nails....been there 8 years and perfect....joint sealed tight as the Egyptian tombs.....
__________________
GENE
"Liberalism is a disease of the terminally stupid."
All products should say "Do not use if your stupid"
Location: Loomis, CA The Great State of Northern California
I just finished siding my house last summer in HardiPlanks. Shot with a roofing nail gun made the job pretty easy. The best thing was these little clips. Level the first course then put one of these clips at each end, set the next plank on the clips and you have automatic spacing. Just nail em up! The clips and the roofing nailer are big time savers!
Location: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
home depot and lowe's sell a "hardiBlade" for cutting the siding with a skill saw. and yes wear respiratory protection unless you feel like doing lines of concrete
1st to the OP:
#1...I highly recommend you install all trim on corners/windows/doors/at soffit/etc., first...then but the Hardie planks and caulk (I think "Big Stretch" is the best paintable caulk for exterior use)
#2...Yes, drill and nail. Few points here (no doubt full of opinions)...We run the siding planks by top nailing with minimum roofing nails, just to get the wall run...then we snap lines where the studs are...pre-drill and nail the bottom of the planks with the SS nails (several manufactures, I like Swan Secure 316 stainless steel 2-1/2" ring shank 8d siding nails...made in the USA in my old hometown Baltimore , MD. DO NOT use cheap Chinese nails for this job!! You will regret it.)
Many live by the rule: "don't bottom nail...don't caulk the bottoms of the planks". Do it however you wish...but I spoke to Hardie...they recommended bottom nailing for best wind protection...and as long as you have moisture exit at the bottom of the siding wall, it looks much better caulked and painted.
Here I'll mention the prefinished Hardie planks. nuff said.
#3...Do not "gap" the butts to trim...and do not gap the siding plank butts. Note here: DO NOT (per Hardie Co. instructions) cut or trim the planks where they butt together. Here we caulk with bigstreach and paint. The Hardie planks do not expand like wood or vinyl...that's the beauty of it, and it's why paint lasts so long on the Hardie.
#4...Not necessary. Believe me...if properly applied, caulked and painted...there will be almost Zero moisture getting behind the Hardie.
A note on the nails: The ss 8d nails have a small waffer head...if you face nail and use the wood grain side of the Hardie planks...after painted they disappear. You don't need to sink and putty the nails. Plus, Hardie is not that thick @ 5/16"...so sinking the nail heads would do more harm than good.
A note on cutting: Hardie Co. makes a pair of electric shears, much like metal shears, that cut the planks like buttah. Both across the "grain", and along the "grain" (rips).
If you're hellbent on using a power-saw (sometimes you have to)...wear eye and breathing protection!!! SERIOUS!!!
A note on wet installation: DO NOT DO IT. Don't install the Hardie planks if they are wet...even a little bit moist. Here on the beach, we had a few days where the fog was so thick, we couldn't run siding.
AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.
I see empty windows in need of some window treatments.
1st to the OP:
#1...I highly recommend you install all trim on corners/windows/doors/at soffit/etc., first...then but the Hardie planks and caulk (I think "Big Stretch" is the best paintable caulk for exterior use)
#2...Yes, drill and nail. Few points here (no doubt full of opinions)...We run the siding planks by top nailing with minimum roofing nails, just to get the wall run...then we snap lines where the studs are...pre-drill and nail the bottom of the planks with the SS nails (several manufactures, I like Swan Secure 316 stainless steel 2-1/2" ring shank 8d siding nails...made in the USA in my old hometown Baltimore , MD. DO NOT use cheap Chinese nails for this job!! You will regret it.)
Many live by the rule: "don't bottom nail...don't caulk the bottoms of the planks". Do it however you wish...but I spoke to Hardie...they recommended bottom nailing for best wind protection...and as long as you have moisture exit at the bottom of the siding wall, it looks much better caulked and painted.
Here I'll mention the prefinished Hardie planks. nuff said.
#3...Do not "gap" the butts to trim...and do not gap the siding plank butts. Note here: DO NOT (per Hardie Co. instructions) cut or trim the planks where they butt together. Here we caulk with bigstreach and paint. The Hardie planks do not expand like wood or vinyl...that's the beauty of it, and it's why paint lasts so long on the Hardie.
#4...Not necessary. Believe me...if properly applied, caulked and painted...there will be almost Zero moisture getting behind the Hardie.
A note on the nails: The ss 8d nails have a small waffer head...if you face nail and use the wood grain side of the Hardie planks...after painted they disappear. You don't need to sink and putty the nails. Plus, Hardie is not that thick @ 5/16"...so sinking the nail heads would do more harm than good.
A note on cutting: Hardie Co. makes a pair of electric shears, much like metal shears, that cut the planks like buttah. Both across the "grain", and along the "grain" (rips).
If you're hellbent on using a power-saw (sometimes you have to)...wear eye and breathing protection!!! SERIOUS!!!
A note on wet installation: DO NOT DO IT. Don't install the Hardie planks if they are wet...even a little bit moist. Here on the beach, we had a few days where the fog was so thick, we couldn't run siding.
AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.
I don't care what Repo thinks, that was a good and informational post.
Whats the ceiling made of on the porch. Third pic from the bottom?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach
AND...I know a few other "trade secrets" that make the final product look like the pics I've provided...
But those will cost ya.
jk...
1/2" Mahogany plywood and 1x2 batten strips...plus many many man hours, priming...caulking...puttying...sanding. ..before 2 prime and 3 finish coats were sprayed on. We used Zinsser oil based primer & Behr exterior semigloss finish.
The ceilings and the overhangs were the only painting done outside with a spray rig...ALL the exterior trim and Hardie plank siding was brushed.
The finish on the home exceeded my expectations...The cost exceeded my budget.
Corvette Store
Any of you guys installed hardi plank??
nuff said.
