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I have info from building mine, there is only a few things I'd do different.
PM me if I can help.
You may want to check out: http://www.garagejournal.com/index.php?
Steve
Talk to The Barnyard on Rt. 75, Windsor Locks, near the airport.
They'll help design, build and put it up for you.
They did my 24'x36' garage/shop a couple of years ago. I thought the price was very reasonable and they brought it over, in pieces, and with a small crane truck had it completely done in two days.
Steve
Talk to The Barnyard on Rt. 75, Windsor Locks, near the airport.
They'll help design, build and put it up for you.
They did my 24'x36' garage/shop a couple of years ago. I thought the price was very reasonable and they brought it over, in pieces, and with a small crane truck had it completely done in two days.
thanks, I work at BDL
I plan on doing the build my self, if there's 15k in lumber it would probably cost me 40plusk to have it build
I do a lot of construction on the w/e's w/ friends, it's payback time for me
I am willing to help too when you start Steve, even though I was only an engineer in the Army is still have some construction experience. You have helped me out plenty in the past.
I am willing to help too when you start Steve, even though I was only an engineer in the Army is still have some construction experience. You have helped me out plenty in the past.
thanks Pat, always good to have a combat medic around
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drop Top
Let me know when you start. I'll bring my thumbs.
thanks Mike , now that the weather is nice, I'm sure I'll see the mag red vert out and about
Whatever type of garage you design, here are a few things to consider:
Go with 8X8 individual doors if you can. I'd suggest doors with some sort of window design just to make them look more residential. 4 big garage doors with no windows looks very commercial, and the neighbors might complain (and it could actually hurt your own home value).
Try to make the interior ceiling at least 11 feet so you have height to put in a 4-post lift. That will give you enough height to put an SUV on top and your vette underneath or vice-versa.
For any garage doors for bays that might eventually have a lift, have the door company put in rails to the ceiling instead of just 8 feet and use a torsion rod system instead of simple springs.
Spend the extra money on residential grade Jack Shaft garage door openers (such as a Liftmaster). They attach to the side of the torsion bar of the garage door system and therefore require no rails or chains overtop the door. This lets them mount the garage door rails almost at the roof and means there is no pull-bar elbow sticking down below the garage door either. It gains you at least a foot if not 18" of extra lift space.
If you ever want to put in a 2-post lift, make sure you have 12 foot ceilings (there is a bar across the top that covers the lift cables) and the cement floor should be a minimum of 4” thick and 3,000 psi tensile strength with steel or fiber mesh reinforcement. If you know you are putting in a 2-post lift, you might want to pick one out in advance and get the specs to have the mounting posts inserted in the concrete pour as the garage is built. Also note that in some areas a special permit is required for a two-post lift since it is permanently affixed to the foundation.
A 4-post lift can be added at any time (usually without any permits), but keep in mind that a level floor is required, so if you have any kind of side-slope right by the doors (such as in a corner of a garage to keep water from collecting in the garage corner) make sure it will not encroach into the area where the lift posts will be. All 4 posts must be on the same plane.
Materials-wise, at least take a look at some of the metal garages if your local code allows it. They go up quickly and you can add any "natural" exterior you wish. I'm not sure about roof materials.
If you're planning on siding, consider HardiPlank / HardiPanel, or one of the Owens Corning equivalents. Slightly more expensive than most wood materials, but it holds paint about twice as many years and is absolutely rot-proof, bug proof, etc. It does require a special blade to cut though, so like I said, it's more expensive to put up initially.
run at least a 60amp 240v service at aminimum, if you do heat/ac, make it a 100a 240v. Use t8 electronic high output florscent lights. If f no heat, make sure to use lights with cold start ballasts. 2 ceiling fans mounted flush to save o head room.
I guess I'm making a bit of an assumption about possibly putting a lift in your garage, but if it is in your plans, George's point about putting in a 240V line is a good one. A 4 post lift requires a 20A 240, a 2 Post Asymetrical requires a 30A 240. Even though some manufacturers offer a 120V lift, go for the 240V version, it will last 4 times as long and operate at twice the speed.
I guess I'm making a bit of an assumption about possibly putting a lift in your garage, but if it is in your plans, George's point about putting in a 240V line is a good one
Sounds good, btw TC, it's a 2x2 setup, 38Lx26W, the 4 side by side would only work on one of the McMansions out here
Sounds good, btw TC, it's a 2x2 setup, 38Lx26W, the 4 side by side would only work on one of the McMansions out here
Well then, lift or no lift, you'll be playing musical cars anyway.
That's the worst thing about what we have with the lift. The car I need is always on the lift so it takes an extra 10 minutes to move them around when I need to go to Home Depot or something.
And whatever you do, DON'T leave the extra car parked in front of the spouse's door when you leave! I learned pretty quickly that parking her "out" was a great way to get the silent treatment for the night!
I am an Engineer in New York. I don't have a CT. license, however I don't think you need sealed drawings(Check with local Building Dept.)
If I can be of any assistance give me a shout.