Hi Ranger
Thank you. I use your clutch cylinder maintenance guide.
2011 Grand Sport M6/ MGW shifter / AR Headers & X-pipe/tune / sealed shroud from NACA duct (nose scoop) to throttle body (no surging issues for past 8 yrs.) 430 rwhp dyno by Redline.
Do U have any suggestions for modifying the NACA duct (nose scoop) or adding a Vette-Air
I appreciate your input.

Hello Ranger,
I'm looking to purchase the DVD you released how can I do that ?

Hello Ranger,

I'm USAF, stationed here in Germany, and just recently took delivery of my 08 Z06. Previous owner said he followed your method to change out the clutch fluid (looked clean when i bought the car, 18k miles). In past two months I've put about 7k miles driving on the autobahn, and I have changed the clutch fluid about 5-6 times(via your method, using Liquid Molly DOT 4). I notice that after few hard runs (3,4th redline and high speed 5th) the clutch doesn't come all the way up and starts feeling limp. The clutch fluid is pretty clean (sometimes slightly murky). Any advice on what's going on? Is this slight murkiness the cause? is it possible it's air in the system? failed hydralics component?
Once again, during normal driving, no problems, it starts happening after 1-2 hard runs. I did not see any signs of slippage.

Ranger

Its George from MGW. Hope you are doing well. I was wondering if you would like to do a simple review of my new shifter and lower box. I know you prefer the stock shifter and until now i really have never questioned your stance for obvious reasons ( your proof is in your times as they say) .

But i REALLY am amazed at how the new box makes our shifter just as smooth and easy to shift as stock but with the advantage of shorter and MUCH more precise shifts. I always wanted to get rid of the stiff overly tight feel of our shifter and new it was being limited by the oem box.

I know you are busy and i totally understand if you are not interested but i just would like to get an unbiased opinion from someone who is so loyal to the oem shifter and see if i can change your mind. you will of course keep the shifter and box combo and whether you use it , sell it, or burn it is fine by me. lol....
you can email me at mgwltd@mgwltd.com or call at 706-793-1770

George

Ranger my number is 256-776-2167 or 256-658-2167 my name is Randy Maples

Ranger i need to see what you think.I have a 2003 z06 header cold air torquer 3 cam nitto drag radials.This is only the 4th pass in a 6 speed vett and the 1st with the cam.I run a 1.77 60 ft 4.91 330 ft then the car will not go into 3rd. Clutch stays on floor, i coast across the line at 8.08 at 69 mph.Now my problem the car is very hard to get in reverse.Car has stock clutch i know you are the man on here so any inputs.THANKS RANDY

Took my new purchase #99 Cooksey out today for the 1st time took one shift and the clutch pedal didnt come back to the top. I know the deal about the dust I read the article. I pulled it back in the garage and saw that the fluid was about 1/4" deep and jet black. I flushed it and pumped it out 3 times. The pedal never returns to the top always about 1" back. I had the local garage do a power bleed from the bottom same thing i took it out for a short drive pulling the pedal to the top with my foot and the dam clutch slips somewhat at 4K rpms. My guess is new clutch clean out slave cyl. new fluid and maybe new seal. Yes? Hard to believe since the clutch did work the 2 blocks I drove it yesterday. It all started the 2nd I added new DOT 4 fluid. I think it was just bad to begin with. Your thoughts and suggestions? Thanks

Hi, Tried to find the Prestone dot 4 that you recommended at all of the usual suspects: Walmart, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc to no avail. All I could find was the dot 3. Is Valvoline synthetic any good? It is dot 3 and 4.

I recently purchased a 2006 Z06 with 25k. I installed full length Kooks Headers, non Cat X Pipe, Vararam, Hurst Short Throw Shifter and tuned by Breathless Performance in Ft Lauderdale and dynoed at 500 rwhp and 471 rear wheel torque. Under heavy hooking conditions (mainly at the track) as soon I shift to second gear the car has a major loss of power and feels like it is shutting down cylinders. At around 5800-6000 rpm the power comes back and will put you back in your seat. I don't have problems in any other gear. The only way that we have been able to get the car to not do this is to lift completely out of the throttle as soon as you shift into 2nd and then immediatly back into it. When we do this we avoid the power loss. By doing this we were able to run 11.20 at 128.55 mph at Bradenton Motorsports Park. I know that you are the best when it comes to these cars as I have followed you for years. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Chad Lively

Ranger,
I stumbled upon an article in Corvette Fever you wrote instructing one how to get the most out of his C5/ C6. I have read it over and over again and I am just starting to understand the large amount of info …. Especially for a novice like myself. Which brings be to my question, you said you had a DVD to be released in 2007. I have checked your web site and scoured the internet and still cannot find a copy of it. Your article has really got my blood pumping and mind racing. If you have not yet made the DVD do you have any other articles, books, or stories I can find?
Thanks,
Justin Alloway
justinall@yahoo.com