Guys, I am in the process of a frame off on my 71 BB coupe, I just glass beaded about 75 pieces of hardware for the car and painted them. Here is the problem, I epoxy primed the parts and painted them with 99U imron polyurethane paint with a flattening agent in the paint, unfortunately the paint did not flatten out and I have a bunch of hardware that should be semi gloss painted and they are gloss black, what will I be docked at a judged show for the finish being to shinny.
Hi mxzx turbine- welcome to the Factory Correct Resto section!!
There are a couple of judges who read and post here regularly who'll give you their pearls of wisdom shortly, I'm sure. My gut says it'll be to the discretion of the individual judge. I'll throw my two bits in so your thread stays at the top.
What frustration for you to make that effort and have it turn up too shiny! Is there any chance of adding a coat of semiflat clear or semiflat black to the parts to further protect but flatten the shine?
Hi Mac, thanks for the reply, to answer your question about recoating I went to great pains to apply a thin coat of primer and an amount of paint I feel would be equal to what an assembly line guy would be able to apply, so I am leary of applying to much paint I guess that would be my second question for the judges, is to much paint detrimental or what would I be penalized less for, I have at least two weeks in prepping these parts and It would take even longer to re strip them but, I've come this far so another couple of weeks in the end wont be the end of the world. We will see what the authorities say.
I expect to have a brand new 71 BB 4 speed coupe when I am done and I would like it to be correct.
Tough to give you a "one size fits all" answer. Usually "shades" of color are not THAT much of a point value. Various brackets, etc., might have an entire value of 1 -2 points. Larger items might be more. Therefore, I don't think you would lose the entire "value" of each item, nor do I think you would lose 50% (1 from a 2 point item) on each part. My thought is that you would lose some points in each area....frame/engine compartment.
If you look at the judging sheets in your JM, you can get an idea as to the point value of each judged item. Hope this helps. Chuck
Thanks for your reply Chuck, the parts consisted of alt, ps brackets steering, front and rear bumper supports, stab bar brackets, control arms, pullies, all the small sh(*&^, I will leave them for now and wait until reassembly starts in a bout a month.
I'd think the actual originality point deduction would be pretty small; each of those items carries very few originality points to begin with, and there are five dimensions to "Originality" - configuration, date, completeness, installation, and finish, with equal weight given to each "dimension". Assuming the other four dimensions are correct, you'd only lose a maximum of 20% of the originality point value of each item, and you'd still be eligible for full "condition" point credit for each item.
Most of those parts were originally dip-primed black (medium- to semi-gloss black), except the control arms were dip-painted in gloss enamel.
:cheers:
Most of those parts were originally dip-primed black (medium- to semi-gloss black), except the control arms were dip-painted in gloss enamel.
turbine mentioned how thin his primer and paint were, but I generally associate dip-painting with thick coats of paint. Is he doing himself a disservice by going too thin?
The black flo-coat primer was pretty well thinned, so it wouldn't clog up the pumps, filters, and nozzles in the dip system; about the only place it was thick was where the "runs" were :D
I always thought that the paint on all of the suspension and brackets were a one shot deal from the factory.Did Gm actually prime these when they were painted or was it just a "coating".Hey turbine ,just curious if you shook the paint up before you mixed it?I used to use some black urethane w/flattening agent for trim parts on late model vettes.If I didnt shake it for at least 5 min it would all be settled in the bottom. :cheers:
They didn't get primed before they were painted - the paint you see is a combination enamel primer/topcoat. The parts painted at the assembly plant went through a hot de-greasing stage (to remove the oil that was used for shipping protection on the raw metal parts), an iron phosphate stage (to give some "teeth" for the paint to stick to), and were then either dipped or went through a "Flow-Coat" booth where they were deluged with paint from showerhead-like nozzles; small parts like engine brackets were done in mesh wire baskets, larger parts were hung on pins on special racks, and went through a bake oven before being unloaded and sent to the line. The control arms were dip-painted at the supplier plant. :thumbs:
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whats the penalty
