Need help in deciding which way to go

[speedracer27]

I have a 1970 possible LT1. The title says 53000 original mile but it has a 350/350 engine in it. The shift plate which looks as the rest of the interior(slightly worn but still in good shape) says that it is an LT1. It also has a big block hood on it. The body is solid, the chrome is in good shape, the front end has been redone(A-arms,bushings and stuff). How should I proceed with a restoration. I wouldn't mind chroming up the engine and stuff but will that just kill the value. What is the best way to go. I will take all the input I can get.....I want to make the right choice. Thanks p.s. The number on the front passenger side of the engine does not match the vin and the last three digits are CTJ which would indicate it is not an LT1 engine, if I am correct.....also the previous owner put a aftermarket intake,MT valve covers, holley carb and messed with the fuel line because it has a pressure gauge on it. The engine is causing me the most trouble in deciding what to do. Also I appreciate all the good input........Thank You Very Much!! [Modified by speedracer27, 1:25 PM 10/22/2002] [Modified by speedracer27, 1:26 PM 10/22/2002]

[Chuck Gongloff]

The 70 LT1 was a 350 CI 370 HP. Only way to tell about the engine is to check the casting number, the casting date, and the stamp pad ahead of the passenger side head. The LT 1 did use the power bulge hood, like the big blocks, but it wasn't drilled for the 427/454 emblems. Let us know what you find on the motor. Chuck

[docmow]

to me i would restore to ncrs standards epically if checks out to be a lt1
but its not my car and you may enjoy all chromed up value only what someone
will pay best wishes doc mow

[wilbur]

The 70 LT-1 also had a T.I Box (front wheel well drivers side).

I had a 70 LT-1 (or at least I thought it was :confused: ). I was never 100% on that one. I sold the car about 7-8 years ago to a guy London Ontario. He then sold the car to someone in the northern U.S. I wounder if you have my old car ?

When I had it :

Pearl white (didnt care for that color) Orig malboro Maroon.
Black deluxe leather
Both tops (soft top was black)
PW
Black LT-1 stripes on the hood
Did not have the orig radio
Wrong carb and intake
No #s on the front eng pad ......
The vin # was 54** I think. Somewere in the 5000 range. I have old pic's of the car somewere.

Kevin.


[Modified by wilbur, 2:38 AM 10/22/2002]

[Mac]

Welcome aboard the Corvette Forum, speedracer27.

I don't know if you've been 'lurking' for a while, reading this forum "Factory Correct Resto" but most of the guys here (with a few radicals scattered in for variety) like their Corvettes the way Chevrolet produced them or a reasonable facsimile thereof but most will agree that your car is exactly that- your's to decide what path to follow.

This is not a decision which is an 'all or nothing' prospect. If your 1970 is still mostly original and you like it that way, no problem, right? If you have repairs which need done, choosing to seek out original parts or at least authentic replacements adds a bit of cost and sometimes adds some inconvenience but it's not terminal.

If you're contemplating complete restoration, you're already committed to a major expenditure of cash and time. Factory correct restoration really comes down to choosing your materials to resemble what the factory used and taking the time to make everything resemble what the factory produced.

If you're thinking of doing a 'splash and dash' paint job and cobbling things together with bailing twine, chewing gum and duct tape, run quickly from this group of anal-retentive restorers.

Incidently, a sense of humour is considered essential equipment on this Forum. Enjoy yourself!!

[Desertdawg]

Incidently, a sense of humour is considered essential equipment on this Forum. Enjoy yourself!!

Crap!!! I knew I forgot something......

Speedracer27. If you decide to not restore you 71, you might want to go to this section, GO HERE !!!!! They will welcome you with open arms.
Just get ready for a bunch of " where's the pictures" replies... :seeya

[71-LS5]

CHeck the block casting and VIN numbers. if it is truely an LT1 I'd restore to NCRS standards or close to it and have fun with it. Zora DUntov loved the little block for its racing ability.

[sb69coupe]

You need to do some more digging to determine if the car was originally an LT-1. Is there a fuel return line running back to the tank, or just a single fuel line? What's the redline on the tack? Does the car have A/C? Is it a 4 speed? Have you looked for the broadcast sheet on the top of the gas tank?

If it's an original LT-1 car, I'd say return it to correct configuration. Since you have a non-original motor you could just build it to LT-1 specs and not worry about the numbers. An LT-1 engine is an excellent street engine with lots of useable power. Otherwise, you start down the slippery slope of trying to match up aftermarket parts that were not designed to work together originally, in the hope of ending up with a well balanced, easy to tune, reliable street engine. GM knew how to design a motor back then for both good street performance and reliablilty.

[JmpnJckFlsh]

I agree with Bob and others...if it turns out to be a real LT1, restore it to NCRS standards, or sell it to someone who can. If it's a non-original engine car, chrome the engine and enjoy it with a big pie eating grin on your face. :D

There must be other clues to whether it was originally an LT1, but I am not that well versed in the details. How about the tachometer red line? The LT1 tachometer should have a higher starting point for the yellow zone, but I don't know the start point. The L46 and LS5 yellow zones start at 5750 rpm; peak horsepower on the LT1 peaks 400 rpm higher than the L46.

Check for the emissions label on the driver side firewall behind the hood latch. You will be able to tell if its the original from its weathered condition. The LT1 emissions label will be so indicated. Only the LT1 had an additional yellow label below the emissions label.

Check the numbers on the transmission and the differential; if they are the originals (stamped with correct VIN derivative) then the transmission should be close ratio, and will have a stamp on the right side rear case flange like "P0E03B" where "B" indicates a close ratio transmission. It it does have a close ratio transmission, that doesn't mean that it's conclusive, only that it is a positive clue.

Check the stamp on the differential; the LT1 was equipped standard with the 3.55:1 axle ratio. You could get this axle ratio in the L46, but it would have been an extra cost option. The stamp on the differential should read like "1CAN5/3/70E" where "CAN" is the 3.55:1 axle ratio. If you find something different, post it back. The standard axle ratio for the base engine and L46 is "CAM" or 3.36:1. Again, finding the 3.55:1 ratio would not be conclusive, but it would be in the right direction.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. This is elementary, but in case you don't know, LT1s did not come with air conditioning in 70. If there is any evidence of factory installed AC, the car is not and never was an LT1. Check your center console; if it was ever an LT1, there should be two vent control knobs there which manually control the kick panel vents on each side. Also check the astro ventilation plenum under the rear deck; if it was ever an LT1, it would have doors on that plenum that open for ventilation...AC cars do not have the doors. Once more, lack of AC is not conclusive; some people up north didn't spring for AC.




[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 8:30 AM 10/22/2002]

[Robert N]

For the flip side to this story....I am in a similar boat. I HAVE a 1970 LT-1 (tank sticker and protecto plate, tach, single fuel line). Mine was butchered so bad in a prevoiusly life (had to be raced, then sat 24 years) that only ORIGINAL numbers matching parts that still exist are the intake manifold, LH exhuast manifold, alternator, startor, fuel pump, and water pump! I KNOW that the car is special and should be restored properly, but they were also meant to be driven. I will restore mine with as many matching numbers parts as possible, but will make some mods like cam, headers. While I am not intending to achieve any Flight Awards, the possibility is open for the future. I am not going full NCRS since I want to drive the car on a regular basis - she already hits the road 2 - 3 times a week.

[speedracer27]

*Can't read the emissions label (worn out), yes there was a sticker below it but someone removed it( you can see the sticker residue).
*There aren't any knobs on the center console but there are ones on each side of the vent balls by each door.
*Tach is orange at 5400 and red at 6000
*There is air conditioning but it does not look like it originally had it( the metal on the air unit in the console does not look like the rest of the metal around it)

Have not had a chance to look for anything underneath yet....very confusing. :confused:

[sb69coupe]

Based on the presence of A/C, the lack of vent levers on the console, and the redline of the tach, I'd put my money on this not being an LT-1.

[coz72lt1]

I agree, doesn't sound like an LT-1. However, you might have an L46,m 350/350. If that were the case, it is still worth restoring with as close to original parts as you can find.

[JmpnJckFlsh]

The number on the front passenger side of the engine does not match the vin and the last three digits are CTJ which would indicate it is not an LT1 engine, if I am correct.....also the previous owner put a aftermarket intake,MT valve covers, holley carb and messed with the fuel line because it has a pressure gauge on it. The engine is causing me the most trouble in deciding what to do.

I think we have gotten off the track in trying to determine if this car was EVER an LT1; in my opinion it is irrelevant whether the car WAS an LT1.

Since the car does not have the original engine in it, I doubt that you can hurt the true value of car much by doing whatever you want to the engine (as long as power and reliability are maintained). If it were me, I would NOT consider a frame off or extensive restoration for this car unless you just enjoy throwing money down a rat hole. When I first started out in this hobby, I didn't think this way; but I am older, wiser, and more pragmatic now.

The truth is you have a great driver car. I would spend enough money, no more than a couple of thousand, to get it in good reliable mechanical condition, and any additional money as you see fit to make the car look nice and original to an average person. Just be aware that if the car is already in pretty nice condition, ANY expenditure should be considered as money for happyiness, because it is highly unlikely you will ever recoup the additional "investment" unless you keep the car for a long, long, long time. And, that assumes that prices continue to appreciate and the hobby doesn't collapse with the passing of the "baby-boomer" generation. ;)

[JohnZ]

There were two usages for the "CTJ" code - 1974 400cid 4-barrel 175hp in full-size cars, and 1978 305cid 2-barrel 145hp used in Novas. Your casting number and date will indicate which one of these you have.