Light84vette

Well, I have finally got around to completing the valve stem guide seals using the white teflons. Anyway I was frustrated with the manual turn by hand valve spring compressor that just took way too long and was hard on my hands.

So I fabbed up a quick valve spring compressor that attaches to the rocker stud and compresses the valve spring with a long handle, about 3 feet long. I didnt feel like buying an $85 tool that I could make in a few hours with literally no money b/c at the shop theirs a pretty good supply of steel. I can send some pictures of it through e-mail if anyone is interested.

Anyway, I changed the seals, got the valve covers on, put in new spark plugs and started her up. No Smoking thank god, ran good, temps stayed where they should be idle good, but then I started to notice some blue smoke about 2-3 mins after initial start up. Ran it and let it ilde for about 20 more mins and every 10-20 seconds, it would smoke a little bit for about 5 or so seconds then stop, then repeat over again. When I revved the engine, the smoke would not come out immediately with the throttle, but after I let off and about 2-3 seconds after letting off it would smoke again. My father says that since I drove the car before the seal change and it was leaking, the exhaust is probably still full of oil and needs to be warmed up pretty good till its all blown out. I think that after 5-6mins the exhaust temp and flow should be enough to blow it all out. Im confused, does anyone have any experience like this, btw I had the engine running after the cylinder head swap ( didnt check the seals) and was leaking oil, for about 1.5-2.5 hours total time with it burning oil. I really hope the exhaust just needs to be blown out b/c I have no more desire to work on this car.

danno85

The white teflon seals are good for race engines where the vacuum is low and there's little idle time. Even though they fit the valve stem really tight at first, they will "relax" in a short while, and if there is high vacuum such as in highway driving and/or idle time, the vacuum will draw oil through the intake guide. I went through three sets of those teflon seals before I finally realized what was happening and switched to a Viton seal about 5k miles ago and my oil burning problems went away.

Good luck,
Dan

CFI-EFI

Most parts stores sell a similar valve spring compressing tool for $5.00-$10.00.

Also, if the valve guides are loose, the valve stem will move around and distort the seal, allowing oil to pass. It is hard to imagine the oil smoke coming from a build up in the exhaust system. If that were the case, it should start to burn off, once the exhaust gets hot enough and continue until it's gone. It wouldn't burn off in spurts.

RACE ON!!!

Light84vette

So Maybe I should take it off the lift, drive it around for maybe half an hour and recheck it to see if it burns oil. If it does, then I should go with the black rubber types As danno mentioned? If thats the case then I might try to fix this next week or so, anyway thanks for the help guys.

bob

When you did the head swap, if your heads have any of the rocker studs that go right thru, they need to be sealed. I ran across that years ago and it took me quite a while to find the cause of the smoke.

LD85

My car did this and the problem was,,,,,, the intake did not seal at the runner to the head and I was sucking oil from the galley, when I reved it it would suck more, at idle it was less


My heads were milled and as a result I could not use the cork gasket that goes onto the china wall at the front and rear of the block.

Light84vette

The cylinder Heads are Sportsman 2 heads, I'm not sure about the rocker stud going all the way through? Anyway about the oil being pulled from the intake, I checked that and put in new gaskets and it was okay.

When I actually took the valve springs off, the valve just fell down about 3/8-1/2 an inch before resting on the piston, with the new seals, they would stand up on their own and not do that. So I'm thinking that the valve guide seals where the problem.

I'm going to have to buy a new distributor b/c I could not get the engine started, checked it and somehow, I left the hood resting on the supports, but didnt fully click them. So water sept in over the past 2 months the car had been sitting there, so the electronics of the dist are toast, Ran fine yesterday though.

LD85

Good luck !

mine was so bad that the pistons sucked so much oil,,,my builder said the pistons looked like they had 60-70,000 miles on them they were so oiled and carboned up.

comp

highway cruz

bob

Sportsman II do have some rocker stud holes that go right thru.

90NormZ51

Try Gumout Regane to clean out any residual soft carbon off pistons and chambers. It works, it's not snake oil.

ZD75blue

GM top engine cleaner works like a charm as well... Be careful though, it will eat paint in a second!

I've used it to unstick stuck rings...