I'm toying with the idea while rebuilding it. Destroking it to 350. What are the benifits... Problems?? This is a complete engine rebuild using a 63 block and 461 heads. The heads are already apart and being rebuilt the block has yet to be opened up completely. It was a std bore but the builder hasn't made the decision on whether he's going to just hone it or to bore it. Forged pistons and all the goodies.. Any recommendations are always welcome. I've told him (my engine builder) to have fun with it, don't break the bank, and I want it still to be streetable.. oh IS THAT ALL.... Dave..
Strokes are 3.25" and 3.48" respectively for a 327 and 350, so you can theoretically stroke a 327 to 350. The trouble is that all 350 cranks are big bearing and the usual solution is to grind them down. I don't recommend this. The larger journals on the 350 are there to restore journal overlap to maintain crankshaft stiffness.
Assuming you want to keep the original 870 block build a 327. If you want a 350, get a 350 block.
Okay so it seems that I got my terminalogy wrong and should have said stroke it to 350. I was just curious.. That's all. My engine builder brought it up and I just thought I'd put it to the forum.
Duke, Well it's the 870 block that was in my 66 it's a std bore but I have no idea as it's original hp b/c the block was decked in the past and restamped to match my car.
Now what would be my advantage to not do this with the block I have? If I can gain more hp and torque why not? Right now we've been discussing a roller cam and 1.6 roller slider rockers... flat top pistons and such.. We'll see...
I believe I mentioned why stoking a 327 is not a good idea in my previous post. If you have a vintage 870 block that is correctly stamped, why risk it and hundreds if not thousands of dollars on an R&D project.
Depending on what that restamp indicates use either a 300 or 350 HP cam as appropriate. If you want to wake it up, use the LT-1 cam. Roller cams are expensive to retrofit to vintage blocks and other than OE rockers are a waste IMO.
What is your objective? Are you trying to pass it off as "original" or do you want to build a hotrod?
Strokes are 3.25" and 3.48" respectively for a 327 and 350, so you can theoretically stroke a 327 to 350. The trouble is that all 350 cranks are big bearing and the usual solution is to grind them down. I don't recommend this. The larger journals on the 350 are there to restore journal overlap to maintain crankshaft stiffness.
Assuming you want to keep the original 870 block build a 327. If you want a 350, get a 350 block.
What was the original HP rating?
Duke
What about the '67 Camaro block..........weren't there small mains in the 302, 327 & 350?
What about the '67 Camaro block..........weren't there small mains in the 302, 327 & 350?
There never was a small main, 350 engine. The 350 was introduced in 1967 with the 2.45" mains. Everything built 1968 and up changed over to the intermediate main size. In order to stroke a 1967 327 to a 350 you would have to have the 350 mains turned down to the early 2.30" size. I haven't seen a crank like this offered in any of the ads. But even if it isn't offered as a "stocking" item, it is easily done. At that time you would want to consider if you want to turn the rod journals down from the late 2.1" diameter to the '67 and earlier 2.00" size. As Duke suggests, Chevy never made this crankshaft. Unless you want to retain your block stamping numbers (already reproduction, not origional) it may be cheaper to pick up a core or used 350 and go from there. The 350 block could be decked and restamped also. Good luck, and...
It's just a 870 block it's not original.. I just like the 327 for no reason at all other than it's a 327. Good bad or ugly.. This vette is a hotrod. I bought it only as a 66 NOM 327 that had been wrecked in the front. Not a one pc front end but you can tell it's been fitted.. Since this wasn't a numbers block and why buy one if you have a std bore to play with.... Build it as bad as you can..
Duke I understand what you are saying but would that not be the thinking if it was a stock numbers car? This is not so if I can get this done for almost no out of pocket expense why not right? I don't know that's why I ask you guys for your wealth of knowledge. Dave..
If your talking about strokin a motor why stop at 350. I have a hot rodded 355 with mech cam it would be a solid mid 12 second car at sea level. But it doesn't hold a candle to the high 11 second 383's and 396 small blocks.
I just like the 327 for no reason at all other than it's a 327. Good bad or ugly.. Dave..
In that case, you need to keep the 3.25" stroke crank. The only difference in the 3.48" stroked 327 and a true 350 is the casting numbers and the smaller (weaker) bearing sizes. I would think a core 350, available EVERYWHERE, would cost less than the, one off, crank work you are facing. But, que sara. Good luck, and...
Since this wasn't a numbers block and why buy one if you have a std bore to play with.... Build it as bad as you can..
Because the 350's stronger bottom end will hold up better if you did "build it as bad as you can". If you do intend to build a really hot engine using a stock type block, 327 or 350, you'll find that the block itself will only be a fraction of the total cost. If you still want to stroke the 327, you might find some old forged stroker cranks at a swap meet. Years ago M/T and others produced 3.5" and 3.75" small journal cranks for 283's and there may still be a few out there.