Location: Brandywine, Chester and Ridley Valleys Pennsylvania
Talking clutch fork angle blues (Mcleod Street Twin)
The last couple times I had the engine/trans apart, I've experimented with the clutch fork angle as it comes out of the bellhousing.
When I got the Street Twin 4 years ago or so, I had some clutch release issues as a result of the clutch fork angle being towards the trans and thus not having enough mechanical leverage to properly actuate the clutch. Ever since, I've been playing with the clutch fork angle using an adjustable ball stud and the Mcleod adjustable throwout bearing.
This time around I have the fork angle further towards the engine (for better mechanical leverage) than ever before. The pedal feels good when cycling it up and down, not too stiff, not too buttery.
My question is this: Is it possible to adjust the fork angle so far towards the engine during install that you run a risk of hitting the front cover of the trans with the clutch fork when at full release after everything is assembled? :chevy
Re: Talking clutch fork angle blues (TrueBlue ChevyDude)
On mine, when I went to far forward with arm (too long of stud) the arm hit the fingers of the pressure plate first. Made a heck of a racket as one of them just barely dinged the arm during rotation.
Re: Talking clutch fork angle blues (TrueBlue ChevyDude)
I don't think that hitting the front cover of the trans will be an issue. There is a shoulder on the trans bearing retainer that limits the T/O bearing travel. Even if it did hit, nothing is moving there anyway.
When I was setting up my Street Twin, I ran into a similar issue that Jim had. My T/O fork was hitting the bolt heads on the pressure plate. A little ball stud adjustment took care of that.
Location: Brandywine, Chester and Ridley Valleys Pennsylvania
Re: Talking clutch fork angle blues (542C2)
Laying on your back for two hours with a 6 pack of Yuengling Lager within arms reach might have a little to do with my misstep.
All these pivot points and angles, obviously I am confused. Not to mention being dizzy after getting up off the garage floor :lol:
427 Hotrod and 542C2- was the rotating noise you guys experienced happening with the clutch released or engaged?
I'm afraid of my problems happening when the clutch is released, given the extra length I added to the ball stud.
:cheers:
Dang Steve....you must have had the same problem I did! At first I thought starter needed to be shimmed (even though I've never had to do it on one of my cars before) for the new flywheel. Sounded just like a binding starter/flywheel as it turned. Eventually I found arm just barely dinging the finger height adjusting nut. You reminded me..it was the nut...not the finger.
Location: Brandywine, Chester and Ridley Valleys Pennsylvania
Re: Talking clutch fork angle blues (427Hotrod)
Thanks very much for the replies guys, I checked out the clearance between the fork and spring adjustment nuts just having someone rotate the engine from the balancer. It seems oh so close, just barely am I getting a hairline scrape using prussian blue on all of the adjustment nuts. At least I guess this means that everything is shimmed right and my engine/trans are straight:lol:
I am going to do a little "improvised machining" in the garage here with a grinding wheel, and dimple the fork in the area that the spring adjustment nut might possibly touch. This way I can go a little further with the adj. ball stud this time and not get nervous. :chevy
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Talking clutch fork angle blues (Mcleod Street Twin)
