Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s
10-25-2003, 09:43 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Boxford Mass
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s
Well, the 406 is finally done. Cant wait to get it in there. So I have never dropped an engine in, but am fine with the challenge.
The engine is 406 sb assembled from the intake manifold to the pan with aluminum heads. It is replacing a stock 350 block on its last leg. I have a new Dewitt rad with dual spals going in at the same time so the rad will be out of there.
Question #1
I was planning to just pull the motor and leave the trans in the car. I'll leave the torque convertor on the trans. Car has a BTO 700r4 in it that I just dont feel like messing with too much.
Question #2
Where should I lift the motor by? Not sure the typical spots are appropriate with all that aluminum. The exhaust studs and intake would not hold. If I use accessory/trans bolts on the block, I'm concerned that I won't be able to manuever the block close enough to the trans to thread in the torque convertor.
Question #3
What is the break in period? I haven't asked my builder yet, but I'll talk to him when I go get the block. It is a hyd roller with a forged bottom end. During one conversation, he said the break in period is minimal with rollers.
BTW, I worry about everything way too much. So I know most of these things are not "big deals". Any little tips are appreciated though.
--Jack
The engine is 406 sb assembled from the intake manifold to the pan with aluminum heads. It is replacing a stock 350 block on its last leg. I have a new Dewitt rad with dual spals going in at the same time so the rad will be out of there.
Question #1
I was planning to just pull the motor and leave the trans in the car. I'll leave the torque convertor on the trans. Car has a BTO 700r4 in it that I just dont feel like messing with too much.
Question #2
Where should I lift the motor by? Not sure the typical spots are appropriate with all that aluminum. The exhaust studs and intake would not hold. If I use accessory/trans bolts on the block, I'm concerned that I won't be able to manuever the block close enough to the trans to thread in the torque convertor.
Question #3
What is the break in period? I haven't asked my builder yet, but I'll talk to him when I go get the block. It is a hyd roller with a forged bottom end. During one conversation, he said the break in period is minimal with rollers.
BTW, I worry about everything way too much. So I know most of these things are not "big deals". Any little tips are appreciated though.
--Jack
10-25-2003, 11:06 AM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: The Top of Utah
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
22 Posts
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (Jack71)
The last time I changed an engine in a C3, was a hundered years ago And the body was off, so these answers may be some what generic.
1) Cool!
2) There should be accessory holes in the ends of the heads. Even these may cause interference with the chain at the firewall. There is a device that bolts to the carb pad that has locations for lifting hooks. *I* prefer to do the install without the intake manifold, and attach the chains to the heads at the manifold bolt holes. "Thread in the converter" ??? Just get the trans onto the block dowel pins and get it squared up. Bolt the trans to the block. THEN you can go below and bolt the converter to the flexplate.
3) There is no camshaft break in proceedure with a roller like there is with a flat tappet cam, But *I* like to do a shortened cam type of break in anyhow. Other than that, just drive it. Everyone has their own break in proceedure. You'll get lots of different advice on this. *I* say, atleast for the first little while, run it long enough to get it warmed up. Drive at varing speeds, mostly highway speeds. While not a big problem with an automatic, don't let it lug. Half to 3/4 throttle blasts won't hurt a thing, especially after you have a few miles on it. One tactic is to take it to an area where you won't be a hazzard and accelerate (1/2 - 3/4 throttle) from roughly 2000 to 4000 rpms in second gear, say, and then let it back down to 2000. Repeat, several times (a half dozen?). This is said to promote ring seating. MY ritual, includes an oil and filter change after the "cam" break in time. Another between 100 and 200 miles and a once again at about 500 miles. After 500 miles, it's time to give her hell.
4) There ISN'T any four! The last thing to do before cranking it over for the first time, is to prime the oil system, then drop in the distributor. Have the fuel system and carb primed with fuel and the timing set. You want it to light off on the first couple of rotations. This is mostly a precaution dating back to flat tappet cams, but prolonged cranking can't do anything any good.
These are my proceedures. You'll hear plenty of others. MOST of the differing advice you'll get isn't necessarilly, wrong. This is just {I]my[/I] way. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
[Modified by CFI-EFI, 9:34 AM 10/25/2003]
1) Cool!
2) There should be accessory holes in the ends of the heads. Even these may cause interference with the chain at the firewall. There is a device that bolts to the carb pad that has locations for lifting hooks. *I* prefer to do the install without the intake manifold, and attach the chains to the heads at the manifold bolt holes. "Thread in the converter" ??? Just get the trans onto the block dowel pins and get it squared up. Bolt the trans to the block. THEN you can go below and bolt the converter to the flexplate.
3) There is no camshaft break in proceedure with a roller like there is with a flat tappet cam, But *I* like to do a shortened cam type of break in anyhow. Other than that, just drive it. Everyone has their own break in proceedure. You'll get lots of different advice on this. *I* say, atleast for the first little while, run it long enough to get it warmed up. Drive at varing speeds, mostly highway speeds. While not a big problem with an automatic, don't let it lug. Half to 3/4 throttle blasts won't hurt a thing, especially after you have a few miles on it. One tactic is to take it to an area where you won't be a hazzard and accelerate (1/2 - 3/4 throttle) from roughly 2000 to 4000 rpms in second gear, say, and then let it back down to 2000. Repeat, several times (a half dozen?). This is said to promote ring seating. MY ritual, includes an oil and filter change after the "cam" break in time. Another between 100 and 200 miles and a once again at about 500 miles. After 500 miles, it's time to give her hell.
4) There ISN'T any four! The last thing to do before cranking it over for the first time, is to prime the oil system, then drop in the distributor. Have the fuel system and carb primed with fuel and the timing set. You want it to light off on the first couple of rotations. This is mostly a precaution dating back to flat tappet cams, but prolonged cranking can't do anything any good.
These are my proceedures. You'll hear plenty of others. MOST of the differing advice you'll get isn't necessarilly, wrong. This is just {I]my[/I] way. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
[Modified by CFI-EFI, 9:34 AM 10/25/2003]
10-25-2003, 02:26 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Boxford Mass
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (CFI-EFI)
2) Can you lift from the accessory bolts when using Aluminum heads??? Also, the carb plate thing scares me. I strip those when putting a carb on, nevermind supporting the motor.
10-25-2003, 08:16 PM
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: The Top of Utah
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
22 Posts
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (Jack71)
Personally, I have never done it with the aluminum components. But *I* plan to. I believe it's done every day. With alum intake and heads, about the only alternative would be to make up a sling out of something like tow straps, and wrap it around the engine. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
10-26-2003, 10:59 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Heidelberg PA
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Cruise-In V Veteran
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (CFI-EFI)
Yes you can - I did it with no problem other then being very careful with clarence at rear of engine.
Just used heavy bolts :yesnod:
Just used heavy bolts :yesnod:
10-27-2003, 10:52 AM
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: The Top of Utah
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
22 Posts
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (85vet)
I thought so. Where did YOU attach the chain to the engine? I have been planning to use intake manifold bolt holes.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
10-29-2003, 08:03 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Heidelberg PA
Posts: 3,426
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Cruise-In V Veteran
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (CFI-EFI)
I have AFR 195's and used the outside, rear and front accessory bolt holes to lift the engine.
Jim
Jim
10-29-2003, 08:24 PM
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: The Top of Utah
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
22 Posts
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (85vet)
That sounds good. I mentioned it in my answer to the origional question. Mainly, because he had the manifold installed. I plan to use the end or second to end intake manifold bolt holes. Partially to avoid firewall clearence problems. Thanks for the answer, and...
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
11-11-2003, 06:04 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (Jack71)
Also, the carb plate thing scares me. I strip those when putting a carb on, nevermind supporting the motor.
11-11-2003, 07:44 AM
#10
Re: Ok, a painful series of dumb engine install ?s (1COOL60)
CFI-EFI, your crossfire has 2 nice stock brackets on the manifold for lifting the engine, I kept those and put them on my new motor, works very nicely. They are bolted on top of the manifold (under the head bolts)
