Blue printing just means that you machine and build everything to a specific
set of specs. For instance, if you want .040" quench (distance between the
piston and cylinder head), and you're going to run a .035" thick head
gasket compressed, and the piston at TDC is .020" below the deck surface,
then you have the block deck surfaced down .015" so the piston is .005"
in the hole. You also have the decks of the block cut parallel fo the crank
centerline (the factory can vary a few thousandaths). And on and on...
When an engine is balanced, the pistons are matched in weight, as well
as the rods, by weighing them and removing material from all but the
lightest. The small end of the rod is balanced separately from the big end,
because since the small end reciprocates and the big end moves in a
roatating motion, the weight has different affects on the crank. Then,
a pin, ring set and rod bearing is weighed, the weights of all are used in
a formula to come up with a "bob weight", which is made up, clamped to
each rod journal of the crank and then the crank is spun and balanced.
A balance job cost about $150 CDN. You just take all pistons, one set of rings and one set of bearings, all connecting rods, the crank, the flywheel or ring gear and the harmonic balancer and it take about 1 day if the shop is not busy.
Blueprinter is time consumming and involves assembling the motor a few times to check clearances and take appart again for remachinig then assemble again to check the work then a final assembly.
Done properly heads require the same care. Just because one valve clears doesn't mean they all do.
Blue printing. Is the act of setting everything to the original engineering blue prints. Blocks warp with time and factory mass production doesn't have tight tollarences. When a block is blue printed it should include align boring the crank and cam saddles. retapping all the block bolt holes in perfect alignment. Boring all the cylinders in the correct V angle. Surfacing the block true the crankshaft. Boring the lifter bores true to the cam shaft.
It's a requirement when ever your thinking about building a fully studded motor.
Blueprinting. Is the act of setting everything to the original engineering blue prints.
More precisely, I see BP as putting specs/clearances in the desirable/advantageous area of the tolerance range of the specs.
When a block is blueprinted it should include align boring the crank and cam saddles.
If it doesn't need it, why? Align boring/honing for the sake of doing it when it isn't necessary accomplishes little more than lossening up the timing chain. Checking is definately required, but realigning bores is definately not a forgone conclusion. Do this only when absolutely necessary.
retapping all the block bolt holes in perfect alignment.
Show me how to realign holes with a tap. If by chance holes are not in precise alignment, and it matters, you're better off with a different block. If the holes are off far enuf to matter, there will probably be other criteria out of alignment as well.
Boring all the cylinders in the correct V angle.
Depending on how far off they are, and how much overbore material you have to work with, wil determine if that goal is achieveable. However, definately desireable.
It's a requirement when ever your thinking about building a fully studded motor.
Speaking of studs, I consider using studs for mains/heads and controling distortion during assembly just as or more important/critical than concern over minor lifter bore or bolt hole alignment. This just from my perspective.
Arnold - I didn't see how they do it. I was putting together a fully studded motor years ago and I had the the whole short block buttoned up. I just about cried when the heads wouldn't fit down over the studs. So I had to pull all the pistons and take everything apart to haul it back down to the machine shop. It came back perfect. I installed the ARP stud kit and the heads just fit right on.
So to this day I always ask for the best balance & blue printing job. My main caps, my heads, and my oil pan have always fit right over my fully studded motors.
I am in the process of doing a fully studded setup too. I was informed and quite suprised by the fact that a brand new block from leading companies like dart or World products still need to be Heated so they warp and set them selfs in their final shape. you have to go back and re line bore everything. With that in mind. I would say it's much better to get a used block and just make sure it's in good shape, after all your gonna be looking over every square millimeter of that block wether it's new or used.
my block finally arrived at the shop. I went and looked over everything closely and told them that they need to make sure that it's all within specs before they even begine to work on it. Once they touch it the warrenty is void and I would be holding them responsible. what pisses me off, I drove past the shop 2 days later and the block was still sittin in the box in the middle of the sales floor where all the dirty handed morons can come in and look/touch it. ARGGG!! it was supposed to be at the shop being heated by that time!!
Corvette Store
Balancing & Blue Printing
