I'm running an aluminum flexplate from Reactor Products and it only weighs 4.5 lbs. It definitely allows the engine to accelerate quicker, which is nice for turbos, but I have not noticed any ill effect on drivability or lugging at low engine speeds, if anything I think it helps.
Monty in your case you have the torque converter to consider. It is bolted solidly to the flex plate so it's weight must be considered.
I wanted to go this route a few years ago and was talked out of it. For the street a steel flywheel makes the car launch easier and it smooths out the engine. Without a flywheel the motor would be a series of jerks as each cylinder is compressed then fires. The flywheel smooths these pulses out and also helps the drive train see a smooth flow of power.
I went with the smaller L88 15# flywheel with my LT1 small block and loved it! Revs came on much quicker, especially noticeable when exiting corners. I didn't have any particular problems with the lighter mass making pulling away from stop signs much more difficult. I heartily endorse the lighter flywheels.
When I went to a motor with a one piece rear seal, I had to choose a new flywheel. I really wanted to try a lightweight, but chickened out and put in a standard (14088650) wheel. Don't know how much a "standard" weighs - I may try a lightweight, (14088646) 16# wheel if I have to go into that end again for clutch work. Has anyone run this flywheel on a smallblock 4-speed 3:36 midyear ? The motor is a zz430 and while the torque comes on later than low hp early small blocks, it's about the same or better at low rpm's than the hi-po '60's motors.
Gees it seems like such a toss up. I want to be as "cool" as possible, and an Alum flywheel will take care of that factor. But then again, it seems that an Iron one might actually make it "easier" to drive. Well I will ponder over it a bit more. Perhaps I can find someone locally with one installed already that I can test drive.
Another advantage with the light weight flywheel that is not often considered is quicker shifts that are also easier on the tran’s synchros. The lighter mass allows the engine to drop revs much more quickly when up shifting making a much better rpm match to the next gear. With my L88, normal and incredibly smooth up shifts after 2nd gear are made in literally ¼ of a second without tasking the synchros. Smooth shifts are almost as quick as an automatic. 1st to 2nd takes slightly longer because the gear spread between 1st and 2nd is 54%, the rest of the gear changes through 6th are much closer, about 23%
I am running an aluminium flywheel in my 74, which gets alot of street use. If I didnt tell you that it was not a std flydwheel, you wuld not be able to tell. I dont know if its worth the extra bucks. I just got a good deal and thought it would be neat to have.
Ed
I'm looking for an aluminium 4+3 flywheel myself and found one for 450$. It's dual mass (I need it to go w/ the ZF-6 to hook it to my 2pc seal crank equipped engine) but I think I'm going to look for a single mass one.
Didn't notice any drivability issues on my car, which is stock for now. It revs up a little quicker but it feels just as drivable as before. It is a little louder, but I would think that may also have something to do with the clutch I had put in at the same time so I can't seperate which is louder. Regardless, its only slightly louder, and still quieter than the exhaust or the stereo. :thumbs:
Guys read the post on "solid roller cam advice". Some one posted on his experience with a light weight aluminum flywheel.
I also saw someone mentioned that is was easier on the drive train. This is opposite to what I was told a few years ago when I wanted to go the aluminum flywheel route. I was told the jerking would be harder on the gear teeth.
I was talked out of it on this forum.
Corvette Store
Flywheel Alunimum or Iron
