For those of you who were interested in my comparison of single plane vs. duel plane intake swap. I did my baseline run this friday
Went to Gibson Performance Solutions in Buafort South Carolina (I butcherd the spelling) But they are great guys.
It was really cold Humidity 20% Temp 39* Absolute press. 30.45
when I left my house to drive the 85mi to his shop it was 15* and with no heater in the car
I don't have a chart of the numbers just a graph but the highlites are
394.9rwhp@6300rpm and 458.2rwtq@3200rpm with the air/fuel running at 12.2 @ 3500 and very flat and linear to 6600 which read 11.8
His only suggestion was to pull some jet out of the secondarys
The changes that I'm going to make are:
Weiand Team G 7530 (thanks to gkull) port matched to Felpro 1206
High Velocity Heads Super Sucker 1" spacer
Parts should be in next week and hopfully warm enough to change parts next weekend then schedule another dyno time :D
How much is you total timing? With a small quench (less than .044) your max timing should be 32 - 34 degrees any more or less your lossing power. 6 inch rod timing is closer to 32 degrees.
When you shift to a full single plane you might experience lean popping. Bigger faster squirters are the answer. I would not change the jetting until you have it running
That's pretty good HP and TORQUE ! Your probably making around 500HP @ the motor. I have pretty much the same set-up for my 89. It's a 383 with 11.0:1, CC 230-236 hyd roller, Trick Flow Heads ported about 210cc 280cfm @ .550"INT and 200cfm @ .500" on the EXH. 700R4 with 2800 ART CARR convertor. My intake is a EFI converted single plane with DFI computer. I 'm glad your combo is making good HP because it gives me good hope for mine. How's your 700r4 holding up? Good Luck!
Quote- "Hows your 700r4 holding up"
I have been thru 3 all built by TPI out of Indiana
they keep extending my 1 year warranty with each rebuild
the current tranny is holding up very well (thirds times the charm)
I should be going back to the dyno next week all the parts
have been installed :hurray:
Mike
I could never get my 700's to last that long until I bought Art Carr. But then your into them way to much. I could have a really nice manual instead of $3000 into a bad gear spaced auto.
I was going to ask you about your Dart heads. Did you go with the optional 2.08/1.625 valves? Did you have them ported somewhere? Your 1/8 miles is impressive. My best at a summer street drags was 7.84 with slicks. I have no weight X-fer, too low of gearing, and a 3500 stall.
gkull the dart heads are box stock I did not have the $ at the time for porting
or other goodies the valves are 2.05/1.6 if the motor goes down again they will be sent off for porting
I too do not have any weight transfer, because I like to do DE's on the roadcourses. I have been told if I could hook up I should be in the 7.0/6.9
range
I'm working with my new MSD programable ignition controler I'm supposed to be able to pull timing out on the launch to reduce power to better able to hook. On the street it seems to work pretty well but we will see if it works on the track next week
I am just waiting for your single plane dyno runs. I'm using a 1/2 wood thermal carb spacer. If your into drag racing. I purchased and extra gov. for my 700 from Art Carr. I originally had the 6800 rpm auto shift. I have since toned it down to a 5000 rpm. So the 1-2 shift is done by the tranny and I manualy shift into 3rd. They sell them for just under $50 for what ever rpm you want. It's just get under the car with a floor jack under .5 hour job.
I have a 750 Speed Demon on right now and I just changed my jetting to 75/80 jets for some sea level road racing this weekend. 20 degrees initial timing plus 14 mech. all in at 3200 rpm for a total timing of 34 degrees. Dart told me that our heads because of high swirl/fast burn tech. make the most power in the 32-34 degree range with DCR of @ 8.5 and 6 inch rods
When TPI sent me the first tranny they included a governer reprogram kit
It took about 2 days (sue me I'm slow) But I have it set to shift @ 6000 at
full throttle in the 1/2 shift and the 2/3 shift when I drag race I manually shift at 6400 that seems to get me the best times
Road racing it pretty much stays in D with the occasional down shift into 2nd
or upshift into OD on the straight, with all that low end torque it pulls hard down low
Here near Savannah it is pretty much sea level (Its not called the low country for nothing) I run 76pri and 86sec.
with this ignition controller I can change the advance curve without touching the distributer, just a few pecks at the laptop keys
:D I will be playing with this when I'm on the dyno next week
It's on older 750DP holley, built by Barry Grant. when I called them about it,They told me two things 1. that nobody worked there still from the old days and
2. that it was a stage3 buildup on the carb. which meant that it was flowed
and had all the bells and whistles that they offered then. this was by the serial number etched into the side of the air horn.
The A/F ratio was not that far off on my last dyno run and I'm purposly
not changing anything for the compairson. but the way it drives it is still real
close and I haven't lost much of the bottom end torque
I called the dyno shop and I'm all set for friday morning I will post the results
that afternoon. I'm hopping he can download to a disc so I can post the numbers that way
Corvette Store
Baseline Dyno run
