Oil / Additives for cam break-in run?

66427-450 · 01-24-2003, 11:38 AM

I just assembled my replacement 468 (flat tappet solid lifter cam, dual springs, lifters with the small "oiling oil" in the face). I used Crane cam lube and GM EOS assembly lube. I'll be using Mobil 1 long oil filters (M1-302) and 15W40 CI-4/CH-4 oil after the first oil change.

My question is regarding the initial 30-minute, 2500-3000 RPM, run. Should I use the 15W40 CI-4, or go with a standard automotive 30W? (I read "don't use synthetic oil for cam break-in"...... but the premium diesel oils have a better combination of anti-wear additives that the synthetics!, maybe I shouldn't use it either?)

Also, what about an additional oil additive for the initial run? (in the old days, I added a quart of EOS; I don't think it is available anymore, just the small cans of EOS "assembly lube").

[Modified by 66427-450, 5:37 PM 1/24/2003]

SWCDuke · 01-24-2003, 03:23 PM

I'd recommend 15W-40 CI-4 oil because it has more zinc-based anti-wear additive than SL oils.

If GM still offers their old EOS - 1052367 (16 oz.) I'd throw a can or it in, too.

Duke

66427-450 · 01-24-2003, 07:04 PM

Quote:

............If GM still offers their old EOS - 1052367 (16 oz.) I'd throw a can or it in, too.

Duke

They still offer # 1052367 (16oz., but it's in a plastic bottle, instead of the good old all metal can)....... it's now called "assembly prelube" (that's what I referred to above). GM say's "Not recommended for use as an additive to engine oil". I can only assume that has something to do with the new/computer car sensors, etc.

SWCDuke · 01-24-2003, 07:17 PM

I recall GM never recommended it for anything other than engine break it - in other words, they didn't recommend using it with every oil change.

I expect that the additives leave some ash and their combustion byproducts are probably not kind to converters, but that's not an issue with your engine.

I suppose you can use it instead of oil for assembly and pour the rest over the cam and lifters or just add it to the oil.

Duke

need-for-speed · 01-24-2003, 07:37 PM

I read somewhere that the EOS will eventually plug up your oil filter (if left in for a substantial amount of run time) and that's the reason to only use it for the initial cam breakin, followed by an oil and filter change. I've used it for several cam break ins with good luck. I just used the small bottle you referenced.

VetteLS6 · 01-25-2003, 08:45 PM

I would just do the good ol' 30W for the intial break-in and change it out like usual when eveything checks out ok, It's been the mainstay for so many years. Additives used at break-in could impede the seating process that you are looking to have happen. (not including red assy lube or Blue) My choice has always been red lube for the cam lobes and white grease for the rockers, striaght 30w for bearings. Prime the oil pump, drop in distributer and let it rip at 2500+, but less than 4000rpm for 30-45minutes :p:
Larry

clem zahrobsky · 01-26-2003, 11:44 AM

EOS does NOT plug oil filters,moly kote DOES once it cools off,so you must change the oil filter after cam breakin or you will not have oil pressure unless you still have the oil filter bypass in the oil filter adapter and the oil will bypass the filter. :chevy

[Modified by clem zahrobsky, 10:45 AM 1/26/2003]

66427-450 · 01-26-2003, 01:59 PM

Another reason I went with the long filters (additional effective surface area).

The current plan is to:

- use Castrol RX Super Heavy Duty 15W-40 (Exceeds CH-4 requirements, as well as CG-4, CF-4, CF/SJ, and SH) and 24oz of EOS for cam break-in....... I don't think there is a better oil out there for a non-polution controled high performance engine, and it's under $2 a quart (not a consideration)

- change oil and filter after that 30 minute run,

- Then put 100 miles on it, and change oil/filter again

- Then the normal oil/filter maintenance routine

Thanks for the feedback guys :seeya

[Modified by 66427-450, 2:25 PM 1/26/2003]