Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (ylose)
I think it sounds like a pretty solid combo. One thing I might add are ARP main studs. If you have nodular iron caps, that should be okay for a street motor, but if you plan on actually approaching 600 hp with a street/strip approach, may not be a bad idea to machine your block for 4-bolt splayed billet caps. Or if already a 4-bolt, then just use ARP main studs and call it good.
The hypereutectic pistons are a good street choice, maybe the best for street. And they will take more punishment than cast pistons. However, they are not as "elastic" at the limit as forged pistons, so if you are going to street/strip the engine and apply nitrous, supercharger, or turbos, then jump for the better forged pistons.
Your heads and intake are fine. Perfect for a street set up. Once again, if you are building for the strip, you might step up on your intake manifold choice. An Edelbrock Performer RPM or Performer RPM Air Gap is probably your best choice. Your website did not say what type of intake you have.
I think you'll see at least 450 lb-ft of torque, and the horsepower will depend on the rpm you design the engine for. :auto:
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (MoMo)
Thanks MoMo,
I have Arps all around currently....
prob won't ever do Nitro, and will be looking to stay street rather than strip...
currently runnin' the Edel air/gap also....so looks like I am doin' ok so far...
its nice to keep some money in the wallet for when the woman goes a-shoppin'
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (ylose)
It should be a nice setup. It will really tame down your cam. With all identicle components and the only change is displacement. Your hp will be the same, but at a lower rpm. Your foot pounds of tq will go up.
Your compression will go up, but your well within the limits of being able to use 91 octane or what ever the octane is in your area.
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (gkull)
good....thanks gkull, I was worried about that too....don't want to overstep myself from being able to use pump gas and settling my cam some would be nice for idle...oh wait....who the hell idles in a vette !!! :eek: :lol:
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (ylose)
J.
There is a guy in Delavan (Pete the porter) who could probably clean up your heads and intake for a little bit better flow. I can get you his ## if you wish. HN
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (redvetracr)
hrm......and here I thought I would save some mola by not touching the upper half and you have to go and mention a way to get more ponies ..... :cuss
:lol:
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (ylose)
Don't know what torque or rpm limits you are setting for yourself , but in case you are not aware, that is a cast crank, and there are different levels of Eagle rods available.
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (arnold)
Thanks arnold.....I think I am going away from this deal.....for a few more dollars more I can get forged crank and better rods as you mentioned....sticking with 4340 materials and all...
but at least the 383 seems to be the way to go and not have to redo everything.... :cheers:
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (ylose)
:confused:
You mentioned this engine was a street set up. And that you wanted to save money by not having to trick out the motor. So why are you stepping away from it because of a cast crank, and the desire for better rods?
The forged I-beam rods and cast steel crank should be more than fine for a street set up.
The 465 in my Pontiac Firebird has a cast iron crank and cast steel rods, and it makes a lot more power than a 383, and I haven't had a lick of trouble with it, ever. I think you'd be fine. Save the money, IMO.
Re: Engine gurus, would these be ok ingredients for a 383 (MoMo)
Quote:
:confused:
You mentioned this engine was a street set up. And that you wanted to save money by not having to trick out the motor. So why are you stepping away from it because of a cast crank, and the desire for better rods?
The forged I-beam rods and cast steel crank should be more than fine for a street set up.
...Save the money, IMO.
EXACTLY!!!
Even with an upgraded top end, you will have to get pretty serious to over tax this rotating assembly. Good luck...and