need 4" stroke one piece seal crank

vettef6 · 11-05-2002, 06:50 AM

I have a 1992 LT1 and I'm building a 408ci engine and want to use a 4.0" crank with 5.850" rods. Is there anybody out there that knows who sells a one piece seal 4.0" crank so I can use my 5.850" rods. I know that Eagle makes one but I have to use 6.0" rods.
Any ideas
Thanks

SPD DMN · 11-05-2002, 03:18 PM

Callies should make one.
http://www.callies.com

vettef6 · 11-06-2002, 05:59 AM

Is there nobody else out there that really knows who builds this crank!!
Do not guess, I have to know for sure.

Twin_Turbo · 11-06-2002, 07:34 AM

Try hank the crank, they can make one for you

Marck

vettef6 · 11-06-2002, 08:02 AM

do you have his link or address?
thanks

yedister · 11-06-2002, 09:01 AM

http://www.hankthecrank.com/

yedi

SPD DMN · 11-06-2002, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Is there nobody else out there that really knows who builds this crank!!
Do not guess, I have to know for sure.

Do you have a phone? Callies manufacturs all kinds of cranks including custom built ones. They can make just about anything so I was not guessing. Now whether it is in your price range you are looking for is another story.

AKS Racing · 11-07-2002, 12:02 AM

Several manufacturers make the crask. Cola made mine. Callies does not, except custom, which was like $3,200. Most all of these are made for a 6" rod. You can buy a 6" rod crank and have it cut down for the 5.85" rod. Either way it is going to take some Mallory metal to balance. You will require a 5.85" rod if you want the rings down for N2O, or for SC applications. I do not think you are going to get there with Eagle rods in a stock block. You will hit water! You need to run something like the Oliver stroker billet.

I have built several stock block, 4.00" stroke engines now, and they seem to work well. I currently am putting together a 4.125" stroke with a 400 aftermarket block. The 4 1/8" stroke justs gets too out of wack in relation to ring stack and rod ratio in force fed applications.

Hope this works for you.

Aaron

vettef6 · 11-07-2002, 09:02 AM

Please correct me if I’m wrong. I will have to take 5.850” I-beam rods instead of an H-beam because this rod does not need so much clearance work. I was also told that the Scat I-beam rod is very similar to the Oliver, in both weight and design. Who has more detailed info?