Has anyone had trouble starting the car after cam mod

War Machine · 11-04-2002, 02:21 PM

Hi All,

I need some help starting the War Machine. I've been reading the Helm and Haynes manuals as well as the Corvette fuel injection book. I'm getting it narrowed but I was wondering if anyone that has had a similar problem can point me in the right direction. It fires for a second or two and then it dies. All wires and vacuum lines are connected. Just about every bolt has been torqued to specs. I mean this thing is ready to go, it just wont stay lit.

Here are the mods I have done to my L98:
-Hot Cam Kit (cam, springs, 1.6 rockers)
-EGR and AIR delete (BPP AIR pully)
-Hedman Hedders non-emission w/ O2S and Catco cat
-Ported TPI (intake, runners, plenum)
-AFPR (set at 42 psi)
-Custom chip
-Injectors cleaned and all function w/in 1% of eachother

I removed the entire AIR system, switching valves and all as well as the EGR stuff. I have blockoff plates for the EGR valve and pipe on the intake manifold. All remaining vacuum ports have something on them. The valves were reset and I have compression, at least the #1 cylinder does. Fuel pressure guage reads 42 psi at start up and slowly drops when the engine dies. Plugs are gapped to .035 and all plug wires are conected. Tried to start it with the distributor in 3 different settings. First was TDC pointing to #1 on the distributor and the other two were one tooth ahead and one tooth behind.

I'm thinking this is going to be something stupid like a backwards MAF or an incorrectly set IAC valve! Does the IAC need to be reset {by the book}after having it off the car. I measured the pintle length before I put it back on but is that good enough? Has anyone tried to start thier car with the MAF backwards? I'm not sure about those but, that and the chip will be the first things I check later on. I'll replace the custom chip with the stocker....see if that gets it started if the IAC or MAF doesn't check out.

Assuming the AIR was or can be completely removed from the chip, do I still need any of the AIR switching valves?

Any help would be sincerely appreciated!!

-John

[Modified by War Machine, 8:37 AM 11/5/2002]

wallyknoch · 11-04-2002, 05:59 PM

When you set the cam in, remember that both 1 and 6 are up at the same time. If the dots were together and you set distributor at 1, you are on overlap because it was actually fireing on six. :cheers:

War Machine · 11-04-2002, 06:45 PM

Thanks!! I'll check into that! :)

Leaving now, I'll update this in the morning. :seeya

War Machine · 11-05-2002, 11:32 AM

wallyknoch,
I didn't install the cam or timing chain but my mechanic assured me that it went in the right way. I checked the IAC and that thing does need to be reset before initial start-up. I pulled it out and the pintle was out more than 1 1/4" and it's not to exceed 1 1/8". Fixed that but still no start. I changed chips and still no change. We decided to take the valve covers off again and re-adjust all the rockers. 3/4 turn down from no pushrod play and it's good, more than that and the valves start to open. I hope this is it b/c other than that, we checked everything.

It starts real nice (only for a few seconds) after it sits for a while and gets worse until I let it sit a while again.

wallyknoch · 11-05-2002, 03:05 PM

Well, didn`t really say it was not installed correctly. If the dots are together your on 6 in the fireing order. If both on top then your on 1 in the fireing order. It was merely a suggestion tha t the distributor may be 180 degrees off. That would not really be a mechanical problem, just a possible incorrect distributor timing. You asked what could be wrong and it is merely a suggestion as not everyone is aware of the difference. Merely lining up a harmonic balancer to a timing tab could address that minor situation... Hope you have it solved by now anyway. :cheers: :cheers:

Quote:

wallyknoch,
I didn't install the cam or timing chain but my mechanic assured me that it went in the right way. I checked the IAC and that thing does need to be reset before initial start-up. I pulled it out and the pintle was out more than 1 1/4" and it's not to exceed 1 1/8". Fixed that but still no start. I changed chips and still no change. We decided to take the valve covers off again and re-adjust all the rockers. 3/4 turn down from no pushrod play and it's good, more than that and the valves start to open. I hope this is it b/c other than that, we checked everything.

It starts real nice (only for a few seconds) after it sits for a while and gets worse until I let it sit a while again.

War Machine · 11-05-2002, 03:53 PM

Thanks for the input Wally! :cheers:

I've triple checked everything but that.

Your suggestion is definately worth a triple check. :yesnod:

War Machine · 11-06-2002, 11:40 AM

We decided to check the compression on #4 b/c that was one of 3 header pipes that was cool when trying to start it up. That one has compression. After tinkering with that we decided to check the distributor. All is fine except for the ignition module, I'm having that tested later this afternoon.

Tearing the front of the engine apart is a last resort. If this ignition module tests ok then we will have to check the cam and spocket alignment. If the cam and sprocket turn out to be ok, and the ignition module checks ok, then I am truly stumped. :confused: