what i should expect to pay for a 400 block .30 over,509casting,2bolt,spayed caps,clearanced for 4inch stroke=434 along with a few other tricks? i have never done big inch sbc. any tips or advice on the build would be great.who should i use for rotating assm.? thanks
If the block has been checked to verify cylinder wall integrity and has given a clean bill of health by a good machine shop I would expect to pay no more than $850. Blocks and machine work are things that are hard to put a value on since quality is very important when looking at both. I personally like to pay a little extra to get that attention to detail that only a true performance engine shop has. With the price for machining the 400 block I have and the cost of the caps, $850 is what about what it cost to have it all done so that is where my figure comes from. As far as the rotating assembly goes there is nothing too special that has to go in there; if you post the application of this engine we could give you some ideas. Without that the only thing I can comment on is the piston and rod selection. With that much stroke and a standard deck height you will be limited on what you can do. With a 6 inch rod you will have to run a 1 inch pin height piston and that will only be available forged. Other than that, you get what you pay for...
A Dart Iron Eagle block with steel caps will run you about $2500, the little "M" about $2300. If you happen to be affiliated or on a first name basis with a professional engine shop that builds sprint car engines you may be able to find a used aluminum block for that price. When shopping for these blocks used repairs are ok as long as they have not been damaged and repaired in the main webbing. For a street car/hot rod these blocks are still ok, but for the most part racers stay away from this type of repair for obvious reasons. The nice thing about most of these aftermarket blocks is that they are offered in tall deck dress giving you many more options on the bottom end components.
sorry it took so long to reply. the application for the motor would be a limited street mostly track application. im trying for about 500 hp with a ton of torque. that block filler is completely out of the question for me right? block was clearanced with 6in rods but im trying to run pump gas so my piston choices r limited,any advice?
Oh no, block filler can be used on the street, I have a 355 with about 1.5 inch fill and have never had any cooling issues what so ever. If money is not an option the aftermarket blocks are great but you can run into issues with them if you start getting into the tall deck raised cam spread pan rail models. Sure they will go easily to 450+ inches but then you are stuck buying a lot of special parts just for that odd ball combination. Myself I went with a tall deck aluminum Rodeck 350+ that was running in a sprint car. It is a tall deck but has a standard camshaft height and pan rail but is a tall deck. This way I can run the long rods that I have with a 3.85 inch stroke and still have plenty of piston meat. Or I have run a 4 inch stroke crank with the 6.200 rods and still have room for the 1 inch height pin pistons. These blocks used will run you about the same as a new iron eagle tall deck ($2500) and are only about 100lbs. What type of racing are you going to do with it?
I paid $ 100.00 for my 400. Since i was going to run all forged rotating assembly I sold the crank to a guy who wanted to build a 383 for $75.00.
I bought AFR heads so I sold my old heads for $50.00 for the pair.
I still had the block and $25.00 more than what I paid for the entire engine.
Corvette Store
price on a 400 block?
along with a few other tricks? i have never done big inch sbc. any tips or advice on the build would be great.who should i use for rotating assm.? thanks
