A lot of the aftermarket aluminum blocks either don't have provisions for an oil pump on the rear main cap (dry sump only), or don't have an oil filter boss (must remote mount the filter), or the pan rails are spread which limits your choices on pans, or the cam is raised, which requires the appropriate timing chain components and pushrods. Some even only have larger diameter cam journals. So, watch out for those things. For a stroker, you might want the raised cam and/or wide pan rails, but with stoker rods that have shorter bolts (like the Crower stroker rods), you can get by with a 4" stroke crank in a regular block. I'm building a SBC 427 with an iron 400 block right now.
You might want to look at the World Products SBC aluminum block. It's all "conventional", will support a 4" stroke crank, and is reasonably priced.
The Rodeck I have is a 350+ model that is dry sump only and has the oil filter pad. Many of them are set up for outlaw sprint car racing and are all conventional. There is no problem stroking them; the same procedure as an iron block it just weighs less! Also if it is a tall deck you can run a longer rod with the same compression height. They are actually really good to build a 434 or 427 out of if you don't mind modifying them for an oil pump or running the dry sump which is nice for road racing. Let me know if you have any further questions.
The Rodeck I have is a 350+ model that is dry sump only and has the oil filter pad. Many of them are set up for outlaw sprint car racing and are all conventional. There is no problem stroking them; the same procedure as an iron block it just weighs less! Also if it is a tall deck you can run a longer rod with the same compression height. They are actually really good to build a 434 or 427 out of if you don't mind modifying them for an oil pump or running the dry sump which is nice for road racing. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Deakins,
Mine says 350+ and the rear cap has 6 bolts and has oil filter mount cast in just like the stock block. Is there any way to economically convert this to a wet sump?. If not i will just find some cheap dry sump parts on racingjuck or ebay.
I need to figure out what size sleeves i have. Does it matter? Can any sleeve be bored to 4.185? If i have a raised cam does that create any problems? Do tall deck stroker kits cost a lot more money?
I need to take some measurements to find out what i have.
Your best bet would be to run the dry sump system. I have heard of shops modifying the rear cap and drilling the hole for the oil pump drive but I would have some worries about something like that on a $5000 block! On the sleeves there should be enough there to go .060 over without any problems and sleeves are not that bad to have put in. The raised cam just makes it where you have to get the proper timing chain for that app and some pushrods to match up and the proper rev kit if you are using one; nothing major and usually things that are getting bought anyway so what the heck right. The nice thing about a tall deck block is that you have more room for the rods/pistons to fit. In many cases this will allow you to run a more practical and stronger piston since you will not be looking at the 1 inch compression height stuff that is kinda oddball unless you are looking to run a very long rod like a 6.200+. I can give the equation to calculate out the dimensions of the parts you need for your deck height so you will not be limited to a kit. Using this simple equation you can pick and choose exactly what you want and will be sure that it will fit up nicely. If you have any more questions or would like the equation post them here or pm me. I hope this helps you out.
Yeah it would; the only problem is fitting the pump along side the drivers side since he will more than likely be using side engine mounts. If the pump has more than 3 or 4 stages they usually won't fit. Also then it has to be belt driven and some people do not like that if they do any street driving. One thing you can do is drive the pump off the camshaft and the water pump off of the crank and the alternator off the flywheel and that is a bullet proof set up; but it takes some engineering and some sprint car parts to make it work. Just my observations after trying to install a 6 stage pump on my Rodeck in a C4 and finding that it would not work out well.
Corvette Store
anybody ever build a stroker with aluminum Rodeck block?
granted not that much.
