your drinking buddy

Im getting a new ZZ4 short block and was wondering what are some good heads. I plan on getting a whole new exhaust sys later and a Super Ram, but can't now due to costs. My engine is out so I was wanting to get new heads now. What other parts should I consider? I would like around 400 hrs pwr with the new exhaust and the Super Ram on the ZZ4 short block so the heads need to flow well.

-=Jeff=-

I would send the Stock L98 heads to CNC Heads in FL. That is what I am using and I am very happy

CORKVETTE1

GET THE AFR HEADS AND GET THEM MILLED DOWN SO YOU CAN COME UP WITH A TRUE 11:1 MOTOR AND THEN HANG ON :cool:

Les

I have no first hand experience w/ the AFRs but I hope to someday. Everything I've read about them has been very good- they produce some big numbers on the dyno articles I've read.

CORKVETTE1

i think the key is in the low lift numbers are very good the high lift numbers are as good as anybodys too :cool:

81ZZ4

I have AFR 190 Street Heads on my ZZ4 block
Much "fatter" power curve. They really rock & are perfect "out of the box". Milled them to 58cc for 10:1 compression.

your drinking buddy

How much do AFR heads cost and where can I get them?

CORKVETTE1

thats the key get that compression up dont be afraid my 350 was at a true 11:1 motor my 406 is at 10:4 to1 i was talking to lt401vette up at carlisle last week and he told me he is running 12:6 to 1 on 93 octane pump gas so next year i am going to up the comp a little to over 12 to 1every point in comp is 4% more power rule of thumb :cool:

CORKVETTE1

go directly to air flow research web site i believe around 1200-1450 dollars money well spent http://www.airflowresearch.com/cyl.html
:cool:

thejaf

Hi, if anyone is interested, since this is about heads, I'm selling my old pair of "041" heads right now. All information is here :chevy

I'm selling these heads because my compression was too high for pump gas. I'm not sure how you can go over 10:1 on pump gas without retarding your timing such that performance suffers tremendously. The 406 was in the car when I bought it. It was getting 7 mpg, and was a dog. Then the distributor crapped out, and I started working with Lars.

Anyway, once a fresh Q-jet, dual plane manifold, and a rebuilt and recurved distributor were installed, my car would detonate like crazy, even with initial timing set at 6*, total coming to 34*. I'm getting rebuilt 76cc ehads from Lars, and these should bring my compression down to 9.7:1, which should be about perfect for a quick advance curve.

Once tearing down the engine (400 sbc, bored out 0.030), found that the bock had been zero decked, TRW flat top pistons with 2 valve releifs, and the 64cc heads was giving somewhere about 11.8:1 compression. The only way I could run using a respectable advance was adding LOTS of Cam2. And even then, my measly little L-48 1978SA could run circles around the 1972 because of a quick advance, lower compression, and more torque.

Just my expereince with high compression. There's a point of diminishing return, and after, it's negative return.

Cory@LS2PortWorks

Of course a car with cast iron heads can't handle a whole lot of compression without a big cam (to bleed off the cylinder pressure). Most of us fuel-injected boys are running aluminum and can get away with a lot more compression wise. Fuel injection also supports more than a carbed engine because we have computers that we can program to keep everything in check. I can't imagine running without a knock retard "safety net" anymore. With tuning we can have complete control of our ignition and fuel tuning. Much more than a carb. With an LT1 (or LT4) you can even tune individual cylinders. I've got a very good friend who is running over 13 to 1 compression in a 396 small block with heavily modified LT4 heads and a CC-306 putting out just over 400 RWHP. He runs Texaco 92 octane with no problems. By the way it is a 94 camaro with a 3750 weight (with driver). If he can run high compression so can you (if you study up on how parts interact with each other. If you just throw a bunch of different stuff in you engine because it looks or sounds cool you're likely to make a mistake and have problems. High compression is streetable if you know what you are doing and can tune it. We've got a couple of guys up here in the Northwest who use ED Wright's software and can tune the hell out of an LT1. Mail order tuning isn't gonna solve every problem. Your tuner must have access to the car to get a good program working for you. Long distance tuners give a product that does work, but it is far from optimum.

Cory

Studying makes more horsepower than a check book

CORKVETTE1

ttt